The chalk bag is a climber’s loyal companion. Different objectives may call for different shoes, packs, protection, or even harnesses, but you’ll almost always see a climber with the same chalk bag. Your chalk bag has got your back.

It’s worth choosing one you like. We put nine of the best chalk bags to the test to see which did the best job at carrying climbing chalk.

Most (though not all) of these bags serve their purpose well. Still, a few set themselves apart. The Arc’teryx Ion is our top pick for its design and closure, although the mechanism takes some getting used to. The Sukoa Chalk Bag and Mammut Crag Chalk Bag are excellent cheaper options.

Quick Recommendations: Best Chalk Bags

1. Top Pick: Arc’teryx Ion
2. Runner-up: Mammut Crag Chalk Bag
3. Budget Pick: Sukoa Chalk Bag
4. Petzl Bandi
5. prAna Chalk Bag
6. Black Diamond Mojo Zip
7. STATIC Waxed Canvas Chalk Bag
8. Metolius Competition Chalk Bag
9. Two Ogres Essential-Z

Top Pick: Arc’teryx Ion

When we last tested products for this roundup, the Arc’teryx C80 was our top pick. The Ion is the C80’s replacement, and it retains the crown — but the victory wasn’t as clear. In some ways, the C80 was a superior bag.

The biggest difference between the C80 and the Ion is the closure mechanism. The Ion’s new drawstring system is functional and effective, but there’s a steep learning curve. The outer plastic piece locks into a rigid plastic sleeve, which is hidden in the bag’s lining. When the bag is open, the sleeve sits out of the way on the side of the bag. When locked, it ensures that the closure doesn’t budge.

The mechanism is a nifty idea, but it makes the bag hard to open after it’s been locked. The first time I used the Ion, I was afraid I was going to break it. It takes a lot of force to unlock the outer piece, and it never feels all that intuitive. Although technically usable one-handed, the Ion is difficult to lock and unlock on the wall.

The upside is that the closure is very effective. The Ion performed the best of all bags in our “poof test,” letting out practically zero dust when compressed.

In all other ways, the Ion exhibits typical Arc’teryx quality. It’s lightweight, well constructed, and durable. The pocket has plenty of room for large smartphones or whatever else you might need to stash. The tapered shape and wide rim funnel your hand right where it needs to go. Once it’s open, the Ion is a joy to use.

You can expect typical Arc’teryx prices, too. The Ion comes in two sizes, and both are the most expensive bags in this test. If you want the best performance, however, this is it.

Runner-up: Mammut Crag Chalk Bag

Mammut’s workhorse chalk bag doesn’t come with any bells or whistles, but it executes the basics well. If you want top performance without paying up for the Arc’teryx Ion, the Mammut Crag Chalk Bag is a good choice.

Like the Ion, the Crag has a tapered shape. It’s a great size: easy to use without ever feeling bulky. The shell is made from a combination of soft-touch and ripstop fabric. It’s not as premium as the Ion, but it feels well put together. On the wall, the Mammut bag let me forget that it was there, which is exactly what I look for in a chalk bag.

My only real complain is the drawstring keeper, which is stiff and difficult to use one-handed. It does lock securely, and the Crag performed well in the “poof test.”

The Crag has no pocket, which may be a dealbreaker for climbers who like to carry their phone in their chalk bag. For those who don’t need a pocket, this bag executes the basics well at a reasonable price.

Budget Pick: Sukoa Chalk Bag

The Sukoa Chalk Bag is an excellent value. It’s easy to use and surprisingly well built for its price point.

The Sukoa bag does require some compromises. The belt material is coarse, and the shape is awkwardly tall. You have to reach an extra inch or two down to the bottom of the bag. The drawstring tail is also annoyingly long, although it’s easy enough to tie knots to shorten it.

Despite its flaws, however, the Sukoa gets the job done remarkable well. It holds a lot of chalk, and its closure is effective. It has two zippered pockets, and the back pocket is the most spacious of any bag in the test. The zippers are from YKK, so they should hold up well over time.

The Sukoa Chalk Bag doesn’t feel like a premium product, but at this price point it was never going to. It’s a good way to get climbing with minimal financial impact, and for that it earns our Budget Pick nod.

Petzl Bandi

The Petzl Bandi is a simple and likable bag. It sticks to the basics: a cylindrical shape, a traditional drawstring closure, and a few brush slots.

Petzl is good at getting the fundamentals right, and the Bandi is Exhibit A. The fabric is soft but durable, and the closure performed well in testing. Thanks to the placement of its drawstring, the Bandi is easy to open one-handed.

I had few complaints while testing the Bandi, but I also found few standout features. It has no pocket, and the size isn’t as friendly for folks with large hands. The Bandi is priced similarly to the Mammut Crag Chalk Bag, but the Crag’s tapered shape made it easier to use on the wall.

That leaves the Bandi left in no-man’s land. It isn’t cheap enough to be our budget pick, but it isn’t exceptional enough to earn a top pick award. It remains a solid chalk bag, especially if you can find it at a discount.

prAna Chalk Bag

True to prAna’s ethos, this bag felt like a lifestyle choice. It’s soft and fashionable, and it’s almost proudly non-technical. It doesn’t have any fancy features other than a brush holder — just a simple sack and a belt. It’s charming.

The material is nice to handle, and it makes the prAna bag inviting to use. The downside is that the floppy fabric doesn’t provide much structure, which can lead to fumbling on the wall.

To make matters worse, the prAna bag is more expensive than most other bags in this test. It doesn’t have a pocket, and it isn’t a standout performer. It’s available in lots of fun patterns, but there are plenty of other ways to customize your look. For the price, the prAna isn’t good enough to be a top scorer.

Black Diamond Mojo Zip

The Mojo is a decent bag, but it’s hard to recommend over other options unless it’s on sale.

The cylindrical shape is usable but not exceptional, the closure is average, and the brim is wide enough to get the job done. It has a brush holder that works, and the reinforced lower portion should withstand some abuse. A zippered pocket seems like it could conceivably hold a topo.

This bag feels like a plausible baseline against which other bags can be measured. That’s not exactly a bad thing, but it’s not great either.

STATIC Waxed Canvas Chalk Bag

This is an interesting bag. Credit to STATIC for making a bag that’s different from most options on the market, even if it’s not a particularly good performer.

The main selling point of the STATIC Waxed Canvas Chalk Bag is right there in the name. The waxed canvas material is unique and alluring. It’s lovely to touch, and it feels durable enough to last for years. It provides enough structure for the STATIC bag to easily stand on its own, which is a nice touch.

In other ways, however, the construction makes life difficult. The brim had a nasty habit of collapsing when I reached for chalk, which made on-wall application a pain. The closure is among the poorest in this test, and the bag is noticeably heavier than those made from more technical fabrics.

The biggest compromise of all might be the price. The STATIC bag is expensive, and it doesn’t even include a belt — you’ll have to provide your own. A simple nylon belt is easy enough to find, but it adds to the STATIC’s already high price tag. When you add in the performance flaws, the unique material loses much of its appeal.

Metolius Competition Chalk Bag

This is another forgettable chalk bag. The materials are excellent, and the bag feels robust and durable. Unfortunately, things are spoiled by the opening. The brim isn’t rigid enough to stay open consistently, which makes it difficult to get a hand inside. The cylindrical shape is so-so, and there’s no pocket.

It’s not awful, but it’s not great. The Metolius is on the cheaper end of the spectrum, but if you’re looking to save some cash, we recommend the Sukoa bag instead.

Two Ogres Essential-Z

The Two Ogres bag is among the cheapest in our test, but this is a bag you could not pay me to use.

I suppose it’s possible that our bag was simply a dud, because plenty of Amazon reviewers seem to enjoy the Two Ogres. Still, the bag we received failed in nearly every conceivable way. It’s poorly shaped, and the brim is uneven. There isn’t enough space to hold lots of chalk, nor is there enough interior fleece to allow chalk to cling to the walls. The pocket is small enough that it’s barely usable. Nothing is easy to use — including, of all things, the belt, which is a pain to adjust.

Most shocking of all, however, was the closure. We pulled, prodded, and pushed every way we could imagine, but no matter what we did, only half of the drawstring closure would move. As a result, this chalk bag never even came close to closing.

Overall, it was a poor experience. It’s tempting to go for the cheapest option, but we recommend looking elsewhere.

How to Choose a Chalk Bag

Types of Chalk Bags

Chalk bags are a simple piece of equipment. The primary differentiator is shape.

Cylindrical: The most common type of chalk bag. These bags are about as wide at the top as they are at the bottom. If you like to use your chalk bag while bouldering, cylindrical bags tend to stand up well on their own.

Taper: Tapered chalk bags are wider at the brim and narrower at the base. This shape “funnels” your hands down to your chalk. Not all climbers like this shape, but I find that it makes chalking more intuitive on the wall.

Bulb: These bags have a wide, bulbous base. They create a pocket that holds more chalk than an equivalently sized cylindrical bag.

Pockets

Some climbers like to store their smartphone, a topo, some tape, or a snack in their chalk bag. If that sounds like you, you’ll want a chalk bag with a pocket. In this test, the Sukoa Chalk Bag and the Arc’teryx Ion provided the best storage for phones.

All the bags in this test have at least one slot to carry a brush. Some bags (like the Petzl Bandi) have multiple.

Chalk Bags FAQ

Are There Any Other Good Chalk Bags?

Yes. Some bags didn’t fit into this roundup but may still work well for the right climber.

The Mammut Alpine Chalk Bag, for instance, has nifty features aimed specifically at multipitch objectives. There are three pockets, an elastic accessory strap to carry a jacket, and a belt buckle with a double closure to guard against accidental openings. If you want to carry gear in your chalk bag instead of in your pockets or on your harness, this is a good way to do it.

Many manufacturers offer variations on their basic formula. For example, Black Diamond offers many variants of their Mojo bag, including a Honnold signature edition and a version made from repurposed fabric scraps. Unless you’re looking for a very specific look or feel, most of these changes won’t change the function of the bag.

Unique chalk bags are a great opportunity to express your personality and style. If the big-brand options aren’t doing it for you, look for smaller makers on Etsy or sites like Oterra Designs. I’ve climbed with a chalk bag from Krieg Climbing for many years, and it still makes me happy to hop on the wall with unicorns decorating my gear.

Finally, I give an honorable mention to the Black Diamond Hot Forge Heated Chalk Bag. As a climber with Raynaud’s, I am constantly looking for ways to keep my fingers warm when temperatures drop. The Hot Forge is expensive and requires some extra forethought to charge it up, but it genuinely works.

Do You Need a Chalk Bag for Climbing?

Not necessarily. Climbers in decades past got by without one, and some climbers today still prefer to climb without chalk.

That said, nearly everyone struggles with sweaty hands at some point. If you find your fingers getting slippery, you could probably benefit from a chalk bag.

Chalk bags are most useful for roped climbing because they allow you to chalk up one-handed while you’re on the wall. If you’re focused on bouldering, you may be better served by a bouldering chalk bucket.

Can You Wash a Chalk Bag?

Sure. Manufacturer recommendations differ on this topic, and it’s best to check if you’re unsure. Black Diamond recommends a wash in warm water with non-detergent soap. Arc’teryx says it’s best to stick to surface cleaning. Since chalk bags are (hopefully) not load-bearing or life-saving equipment, you have some leeway to wash how you see fit.

No matter how well you clean, chalk bags will get dirty. Chalk will stick to the outside, and you’ll inevitably scrape them up the side of some chimney. A dirty chalk bag is one that’s doing its job!

How Much Chalk Should Be in My Chalk Bag?

As much as you want!

Some climbers like to have a big clump of chalk in their bag to wrap their fingers around. Some prefer the metered application of a chalk ball, and others like a dusting that isn’t too thick. You don’t want so much chalk in your bag that it’s hard to stick your hand in, but you don’t want so little that it’s hard to apply.

Explore, find your own preferences, and stick to them. If you’re curious about the differences between chalks, check out our roundup of the best chalk for climbing.

The post 9 Best Chalk Bags appeared first on 99Boulders.

One unexpected side-effect of the pandemic was the rise of liquid chalk. Research showed that liquid chalk is an effective antiseptic against COVID-19, which provides some welcome peace of mind when you’re all using the same holds. During the height of the pandemic, some gyms required the use of liquid chalk.

In addition to its sanitary benefits, liquid chalk is a convenient way to keep your fingers dry and grippy, especially if you have issues with sweat. To find the best liquid chalk for climbing and weightlifting, I put five top products through the testing wringer on hot summer days in Southern California.

In a rare combination award, Petzl Power Liquid wins out as our Top Pick and Budget Pick for its blend of performance and value. If you have the cash, Friction Labs Secret Stuff provides a premium feel and a rosin-free experience.

In general, the differences I discovered during testing were small. All of the chalks in our test serve their intended purpose well. Read on for detailed comparisons.

Quick Recommendations: Best Liquid Chalk

1. Top Pick & Budget Pick: Petzl Power Liquid
2. Upgrade Pick: Friction Labs Secret Stuff
3. Mammut Liquid Chalk
4. Black Diamond Liquid White Gold Chalk
5. Fire Team Fit Liquid Chalk

Top Pick & Budget Pick: Petzl Power Liquid

Throughout testing, Petzl’s Power Liquid was consistently the liquid chalk that I reached for the most. It’s easy to apply, provides excellent friction, and lasts longer than most of the competition.

It does come with a few compromises, including the bottle. All of the other products in this test come in a bottle with a snap top, which makes opening and closing quick and easy. Power Liquid has a screw top. This reduces the likelihood of spillage inside a gym or crag bag, but it also makes access a pain. The nozzle has a star-shaped cutout to reduce clogging, which I appreciated after other bottles clogged up on me.

Petzl’s formula does include rosin, which has garnered some controversy (see notes below). Power Liquid also takes slightly longer to dry than most of its competition. The difference isn’t huge, and I was glad to sacrifice a few seconds of dry time for extended sweat-free use.

For maximum performance and longevity, Power Liquid earns top marks. It’s also the cheapest liquid chalk in this test, making it our Budget Pick as well. It’s rare that performance and value line up so well, but that’s good news for liquid chalk users.

Upgrade Pick: Friction Labs Secret Stuff

Friction Labs has built a reputation for high-performing chalk products that come with equally high price tags. Their Secret Stuff liquid chalk is no exception.

The biggest selling points of Secret Stuff are on the application side. It goes on easy, dries quickly, and feels silkier than the alternatives. Overall, it’s the most pleasant liquid chalk to use.

Secret Stuff is made with a simple list of ingredients: isopropyl alcohol, magnesium carbonate, and water. Unlike most liquid chalks, the formula does not include rosin (also known as colophonium). Over time, rosin can make holds polished and difficult to clean. Some gyms have banned its use entirely. For the cleanest liquid chalk experience, Secret Stuff is a good option.

The benefits aren’t as clear in the performance department. I found that Secret Stuff provided good friction, but it lasted no longer than alternatives from Black Diamond, Petzl, or Mammut.

Per mL, Secret Stuff is by far the most expensive product in this test. It’s hard to justify purely on performance, but if texture, dry time, and rosin-free climbing are important to you, it may be worth spending up.

Mammut Liquid Chalk

Mammut Liquid Chalk is a strong but unexceptional performer. It doesn’t feel as smooth as Secret Stuff, and it doesn’t last quite as well as Petzl Power Liquid. But it comes close, and it’s reasonably priced.

The bottle is easy to use and didn’t clog up during testing. Mammut Liquid Chalk is available in a small 100 mL bottle, which makes a good way to try out liquid chalk without breaking the bank.

All else being equal, Mammut Liquid Chalk wouldn’t be my first choice, but the sacrifices are small. Like most products in this test, Mammut’s formula includes rosin.

Black Diamond Liquid White Gold

Black Diamond’s White Gold liquid chalk isn’t bad, but it failed to distinguish itself in any meaningful way from the competition.

It’s easy to apply, but it doesn’t feel as smooth as Secret Stuff. It’s an effective drying agent, but it doesn’t last as long as Power Liquid. It’s more expensive per mL than the Petzl or Mammut products, and its formula includes rosin.

All that adds up to a mediocre value proposition. I had no major complaints after using Liquid White Gold, but I couldn’t come up with any reason to recommend it over our top picks.

Fire Team Fit Liquid Chalk

This liquid chalk was the designated representative for the dozens of clones available on Amazon. Much like the Black Diamond Liquid White Gold, it’s serviceable but not particularly good.

The Fire Team Fit Liquid Chalk was easy to apply, but its bottle started clogging up after only a few uses. It dries quickly, but it didn’t perform well in durability testing. Feel and friction are average.

This liquid chalk is currently available with Prime shipping, but even in a larger 250-mL bottle, it’s more expensive per mL than all products in this test except Friction Labs Secret Stuff. Unless you absolutely need liquid chalk delivered tomorrow, there’s no good reason to pay the premium.

How to Choose Liquid Chalk

Types of Liquid Chalk

With rosin: Most liquid chalk formulas include rosin (also known as resin, colophony, or colophonium). Historically used by boulderers in Fontainebleau, rosin makes rock and skin tacky for extra grip. Rosin is also an ingredient in some varnish formulations, for the opposite reason: it dries to a smooth, hard surface.

That may be good for tables, but it’s bad for climbing holds. Over time, rosin buildup creates a polish on natural and artificial holds alike. Rosin has drawn its fair share of controversy in Fontainebleau, and its use in liquid chalk has raised concerns about the effect on gyms and crags.

Powdered chalk comes with its own set of visual, textural, and respiratory compromises. The jury seems to still be out on the use of rosin formulas in the gym, but many experienced climbers agree that frequent rosin use outdoors (where holds are more difficult to clean) is a bad idea.

Rosin-free: The selection of rosin-free liquid chalk formulas is limited. The most widely available formulations come from Friction Labs, which offers three rosin-free liquid chalks with different proportions of alcohol. Wild Country’s liquid chalk, which I unfortunately couldn’t test for this roundup, is also rosin-free.

Size

Most of the options in this roundup are available in multiple sizes. If you know that you consistently use liquid chalk, larger bottle sizes provide the best value. If you’re still experimenting with liquid chalk use, smaller sizes let you try it out with minimal financial commitment.

Bottle

Most liquid chalk bottles have a snap top. They’re easy to open and close, but they’re more prone to being jostled open in a backpack or gym bag. I didn’t see this happen to any bottles during testing, but I have had it happen in the past. If you’re worried about spillage, it’s easy enough to pack your liquid chalk in a plastic bag for peace of mind.

Larger bottles may come with screw tops, which are more secure but take longer to open and close.

Liquid Chalk vs. Regular Chalk

Fundamentally, liquid chalk and powder chalk accomplish the same goal: keep your hands from getting sweaty. Both forms of chalk are based on the same primary ingredient: magnesium carbonate. Conventional chalk is a simple magnesium carbonate powder, while liquid chalk suspends the particles in some combination of solvents. They have distinct pros and cons.

Liquid chalk is easier to apply precisely, and it has some sanitary benefits. When applied properly, it lasts longer than a coat of powdered chalk. Liquid chalk doesn’t create clouds of particles that make their way into your lungs or a gym’s HVAC system.

The great advantage of powdered chalk is that it’s easy to apply one-handed on the wall. I’ve seen some climbers devise elaborate systems for using liquid chalk while climbing, but none compare to the simplicity and efficacy of a chalk bag.

Everyone’s skin is different, and not all climbers react well to liquid chalks. Some complain of sticky hands, rashes, and persistent dryness after use. If you find that your skin doesn’t get along with liquid chalk, there’s no reason to force the issue.

Many climbers combine liquid and powdered chalks by applying a base coat of liquid chalk, then using powdered chalk on top. This is my favorite way to use liquid chalk: it complements and enhances the effect of powdered chalk, and it slows the rate of consumption for both.

Climbers with especially sweaty hands are the most likely to benefit from liquid chalk use. If you’re happy with the performance of powdered chalk alone, there’s no real need to look elsewhere. Instead, head over to our roundup of the best climbing chalk.

Liquid Chalk FAQ

Is liquid chalk better than regular chalk?

That depends. Liquid chalk is effective, sanitary, and easy to use, but it’s difficult to apply while climbing. For that reason, it’s unlikely that liquid chalk will ever fully replace powdered chalk. Not all climbers enjoy or need liquid chalk, but if you find yourself consistently struggling with sweaty hands, it may be worth trying it out.

How long does a bottle of liquid chalk last?

Again, it depends. Liquid chalk comes in a wide variety of bottle sizes, and usage depends on everything from sweat levels to hand size. If liquid chalk is your only friction aid, you may find yourself going through a bottle in a matter of weeks. If your use is less frequent, a bottle is likely to last months.

Is liquid chalk messy?

Not really. As long as you’re careful when applying liquid chalk, it’s a clean and easy process. Once it has dried fully, liquid chalk is no more likely to spread onto your clothes or belongings than regular chalk.

The post 5 Best Liquid Chalks for Climbing appeared first on 99Boulders.

We rounded up 7 of the best beginner climbing shoes on the market and put them to the test to find the top option for new climbers.

The answer? The all-around versatility of the La Sportiva Finale (or the women’s version, the La Sportiva Finale Women’s) is hard to beat.

Once you’ve been bitten by the climbing bug, there’s no turning back. Whether it’s in the gym or outside, learning to climb is a joyful experience.

If you’ve decided you’ll be making climbing a habit, a good pair of shoes is one of the first purchases you’ll make.

It will save you money over renting shoes from your gym, along with better performance and a personalized fit. Plus, if you ever want to climb outside, you’ll need to bring your own shoes.

Beginner shoes don’t need to be top performers. In the first phase of a climbing career, mileage matters far more than difficulty.

A good pair of beginner shoes will be durable enough to handle whatever you can throw at them, while remaining comfortable enough to rack up time on the wall. Performance doesn’t hurt — as you improve, it’s good to have a pair of shoes that can handle harder and more varied terrain.

We picked a pack of strong contenders, with a few distinct winners and compromises. Read on for the details.

Top Pick: La Sportiva Finale

The Finale is the most traditional climbing shoe in this test: unlined leather with a simple lace closure system.

But don’t let its simplicity fool you. The Finale impressed with its combination of comfort, performance, and versatility.

In an equivalent size, the Finale fits tighter than its La Sportiva sibling, the Tarantulace. The leather did stretch out a little as the shoe broke in, which made for a snug but comfortable fit (expect to size down 1-1.5 sizes from your Euro street size).

It was the better performer of the two, lending confidence on slabs and edges while turning in a respectable performance on steeper climbs. I felt the shoe had a good balance between stiffness and pliability, along with adequate if not exceptional sensitivity.

Most impressive of all is the Finale’s versatility. It’s competent on most terrains and pleasant on climbs of all lengths.

It’s even a decent crack climbing shoe — an honor few beginner shoes can claim. Most beginners won’t start by climbing cracks, but it’s nice to have a shoe that will take you wherever you want to go.

Racking up boulders in the gym? Learning to sport climb? Heading out for your first multi-pitch? The Finale can do it all.

Women’s version: La Sportiva Finale Women’s

Best Value: Mad Rock Drifter

The Mad Rock Drifter is another strong all-around shoe. It’s competent and pleasant, and the leather upper settles into a nice fit.

The Drifter is more sensitive than many beginner shoes, which is a welcome virtue. It’s comfortable on a wide variety of terrain, from slabs to technical face climbing.

It’s not a star performer or the most comfortable, but the Drifter is strong enough in all categories to merit a decent score.

Its real advantage is price. It’s the cheapest shoe in our test as of this writing. On sale, it’s a steal. It’s also a slightly better performer (albeit less comfy) than the next cheapest shoe, the Tarantulace.

The Drifter fell into a middle-of-the-pack group of three velcro-closure shoes, along with the Evolv Defy and Black Diamond Momentum.

The Defy offers a stiffer sole and comfy padding, but the Drifter is the more versatile all-arounder. For the price, it’s our velcro-closure shoe of choice.

Most Comfortable: La Sportiva Tarantulace

Not everyone prefers a lace closure system, especially on gym shoes. It’s a bit more effort to get on and off.

But it also allows you to dial in a precise fit, which is why the Tarantulace takes home the award for the most comfortable beginner climbing shoe in this test.

The lined upper feels like a hug on your foot, and the forgiving fit is easy to wear for hours. On my foot, this shoe was barely less comfortable than my street shoes.

And while the Tarantulace isn’t a star performer, it’s also not a dud. It smears particularly well, and it’s adequate on most terrain.

That may sound like faint praise, but for how comfortable the Tarantulace is, it’s an exceptional blend of accessibility and performance.

It may be a shoe you’ll eventually outgrow, but it’s a thoroughly pleasant companion for a beginner. The more comfortable the shoe, the less you mind wearing them, and the more time you’ll spend climbing.

Women’s version: La Sportiva Tarantulace Women’s

La Sportiva also makes velcro versions of these shoes, the La Sportiva Tarantula and La Sportiva Tarantula Women’s.

Best Beginner Bouldering Shoe: Mad Rock Flash

The Mad Rock Flash is a staple of the beginner shoe genre.

The last generation offered solid performance in an approachable and accessible form. The Flash seems to be even more focused, but it’s not without compromise.

Namely comfort. On my foot, this was the least comfortable shoe in this test.

It has plenty of space (in fact, the rubbery sock-like tongue had to fold over itself when I closed the shoe), but the sole didn’t conform well to the articulation of my foot.

It was fine on boulders or in the gym, but on longer sport climbs I found myself grimacing by the time I clipped the chains.

Over time, the unforgiving midsole created pain points on the balls of my feet. The problem is especially pronounced on vertical to slabby terrain. Climbers with higher-volume feet may fare better.

But what the Flash delivers is performance. Especially on steep terrain, the Flash was the most confident shoe by a country mile.

It has a slightly more aggressive shape than the flatter shoes, which doesn’t help comfort but does make toeing in easier on the steeps. It also has the best heel cup of the lot, a full dome of pliable and sticky rubber.

This shoe probably isn’t the best choice for all beginner climbers. This is not a shoe I would want to climb slab in, nor would it be my shoe of choice for toproping or endurance work.

But if you know you’ll be hanging out in the bouldering cave, the Flash will take you far.

Reviews of the 3 Other Beginner Climbing Shoes We Tested

Evolv Defy

The Evolv Defy was a welcome surprise.

At first wear it seemed unsophisticated, with a stiff sole and a boxy fit. But it turned out to be a reliable performer with decent comfort and a predictable feel.

The Defy shines on slabs. The stiff sole takes some of the strain off the calves, and for a stiff shoe the Defy is surprisingly capable when smearing.

The trade-off is that the Defy struggles on anything more than vertical terrain. The flat platform requires extra work to maintain contact on overhangs and roofs.

Comfort was slightly inconsistent as well — the padded tongue is cozy, but the upper is generally unsupportive.

And while the stiff sole is easy to stand on, it takes away some sensitivity. That’s not a deal-breaker in a beginner shoe, but it detracts from the Defy’s all-around usability.

The Defy was still a willing companion, and the stiffness made mileage days easy. It’s a good gym shoe, and it’s not a bad choice for (slabby) excursions outside.

On everything except overhanging terrain it performs at least as well as the Mad Rock Drifter, and it’s another strong contestant for a velcro-closure shoe. It just wasn’t enough of a complete package to take home an award.

Women’s version: Evolv Elektra

Full reviews: Evolv Defy, Evolv Elektra

Black Diamond Momentum

The Momentum has earned its fair share of hype this year.

As Black Diamond makes their foray into the shoe market, the Momentum is their mainstream and beginner model.

It’s priced competitively and designed like most beginner shoes: flat, simple, and comfort-oriented.

BD’s claim to fame is their “Engineered Knit” upper, a thin fabric that replaces the usual synthetic or leather.

To BD’s credit, the material is more breathable than leather, although not by much. My feet may have been slightly less sweaty at the end of a session, but not enough to call it a game changer.

Especially when cinched down by the velcro, I didn’t find the thin fabric any more comfortable. It was more prone to pinching, and it allowed more slip and play around my foot. It wasn’t bad, but I never looked forward to putting on the Momentum.

As a result, I never felt super confident climbing in the Momentum, even though it’s a solid all-around performer.

Black Diamond makes their shoes with proprietary rubber, but their blend seemed at least as competent as the standbys from La Sportiva and Evolv. The Momentum performed well on face climbs and overhangs and only struggled a little on slabs and roofs.

I never had a predictable feel for the Momentum’s abilities, which made it a hard shoe to click with. It’s not a bad shoe, and I wouldn’t say it’s a poor choice for a beginner.

But unless it fits your foot perfectly, better options are probably available.

Women’s version: Black Diamond Momentum Women’s

Black Diamond also makes lace-up versions of these shoes, the Black Diamond Momentum Lace and Black Diamond Momentum Lace Women’s.

Scarpa Origin

The Origin was the only real disappointment of this test.

From the first time I climbed in them, I found myself slipping off footholds, second-guessing my footwork, and climbing less confidently.

If a beginner shoe is a stepping stone to developing precision and confidence, the Origin fails to hit the mark.

I’m not an expert cobbler, but I believe the real culprit is the Origin’s rubber. The hard 5 mm sole feels glassy and imprecise.

Durability is important in a beginner shoe, but I think Scarpa may have overcompensated.

The effect was slightly less pronounced outdoors, where the stiff rubber gave the Origin a decent (if not exceptional) edging platform. The rest of the shoe is well built and reasonably comfortable, with a full leather upper, a comfy padded tongue, and an easy velcro closure.

But by the time testing was drawing to a close, I dreaded putting on the Origins. I found myself slipping off of problems I had walked through moments before.

Beginner shoes don’t need to be star performers, but they should encourage confidence and allow room for growth. As a result, we don’t recommend the Origin.

Women’s version: Scarpa Origin Women’s

Summary

Here are the best beginner climbing shoes:

• La Sportiva Finale
• Mad Rock Drifter
• Evolv Defy
• La Sportiva Tarantulace
• Black Diamond Momentum
• Mad Rock Flash
• Scarpa Origin

How to Choose the Best Beginner Climbing Shoes for Your Needs

Upper Material

Leather: Leather is the most traditional material for a climbing shoe. It stretches the most during break-in, up to a full size. Be aware when you size your shoes, and leave a little room for stretch if they’re leather. Uppers can be either lined or unlined. Many are partially lined, which mitigates stretch slightly. If they’re dyed, leather shoes will sometimes stain the feet.

Synthetic: Synthetic materials don’t stretch like leather does, which is helpful during sizing. Synthetic uppers will generally stretch a half size at most, and sometimes not at all. The downside is that synthetic shoes tend not to breathe as well, which can make for sweaty feet.

Synthetic/Leather: A couple shoes we tested have an upper made of a synthetic and leather hybrid. It only stretches slightly, but remains comfortable and relatively breathable.

Knit: The new kid on the block is Black Diamond’s “Engineered Knit” technology, which is a thin but strong layer of fabric. It’s more breathable than either synthetic or leather, although not by much. It’s slightly stretchier to the touch, but it doesn’t stretch out during the break-in process.

Closure System

Velcro: Velcro shoes are quicker to take on and off, which can be a blessing in the gym. The downside is that the closure will be asymmetrical — if you need to cinch the shoes down, the upper material must fold or overlap. In extreme cases, this can cause problems in the fit or feel. Given only two points of adjustment, velcro shoes are also less customizable.

Lace-up: Because the two sides of a lace-up shoe are separated, they may be cinched according to your preferences. The toebox may be tightened more than the arch, or vice versa. As a result, lace-up shoes tend to fit a wider variety of foot shapes. Lace-up shoes take longer to get on and off, however.

Slipper/Slip-on: Although none of the shoes in this test fall under this category, some shoes use neither laces nor velcro. Instead, they have stretchy patches of fabric that allow a simple slip-on fit. This type of shoe relies on a close fit and may become sloppy over time, but it’s the easiest and lowest profile of the three.

Velcro and slip-on shoes are more convenient, and lace-ups allow a more precise and customizable fit. As long as you can find a fit that works for you, the choice is down to personal preference.

Rubber

The sticky rubber of the sole is every climbing shoe’s secret to success. Every brand uses different rubber, and most brands use different rubber for different shoes.

Generally speaking, the thicker the sole, the more durable and the less sensitive the shoe. Most beginner climbing shoes use durable rubber and a relatively thick sole.

4 mm: A 4 mm sole is the standard on most climbing shoes. The Mad Rock shoes fall just slightly under at 3.8 mm, but it’s not enough to notice a difference. A 4 mm sole is a nice balance between durability and sensitivity, although it will generally need to be resoled earlier than a 5 mm sole.

4-5 mm: The Evolv and Black Diamond shoes have slightly thicker soles at 4.2 and 4.3 mm, occupying a middle ground between 4 and 5 mm soles.

5 mm: The Origin and two La Sportiva shoes all have thick 5 mm soles. Soles this thick are reserved for shoes with a stiffer platform, prioritizing durability over sensitivity. They’ll last the longest before retirement or resole, but they sometimes come with compromises in feel.

With the exception of the Scarpa Origin, I found all the rubbers in this test to be plenty sticky. As the sole wears down, you’ll eventually need to either replace your shoes or get a resole.

A Brief Word on Fit

Perhaps the most important quality in any climbing shoe is the fit. Different feet will prefer different shoes, and many brands are known for a specific shape.

I encourage all shoe buyers to understand a shoe’s fit before buying. Trying shoes on in person is best, but most online outlets allow returns or size swaps. If you know your size in another climbing shoe, Size Squirrel is an excellent resource.

A shoe’s fit should be snug and precise but never uncomfortable. The hardcore boulderers at your gym may insist that shoes should be two sizes small and excruciatingly painful, but they’re wrong. Buy a shoe with a shape that fits your foot.

My own feet are on the narrow side, with a low-volume arch. My testing experience will reflect how these shoes fit my foot. Wherever possible, I tried to specify if this had specific implications for a shoe’s fit.

How We Tested

I began by testing these shoes where most climbers begin: the gym.

I did full tests of each shoe on slabs, overhangs, roofs, and faces of all types. I recorded my impressions of each, then performed head-to-head tests to see where each shoe thrived.

Not all beginners stick to the gym, so I took all seven pairs outside. I wore them up long sport and trad climbs, then finished by taking them all out for a day of bouldering.

Shoe impressions are inescapably subjective. Every foot is different, and everyone climbs with their own style. I did my best to assess these shoes from multiple perspectives, but their scores are ultimately a reflection of my experience.

I scored them in three categories: performance, comfort, and sensitivity.

Performance

How competent is the shoe on various types of terrain? How confident do I feel while wearing it? How much do I unexpectedly slip?

Comfort

How long can I climb in the shoes? How pleasant are they on the wall? Is discomfort ever distracting or disruptive?

Sensitivity

How much can I feel through the shoes? How well can I predict their limits? How much do they help me understand my footwork?

The post Best Beginner Climbing Shoes: 7 Great First-Pair Options appeared first on 99Boulders.

We logged training hours on seven of the best hangboards (aka fingerboards) on the market. It was a tight battle, but the widely hailed Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center wound up on top.

The off-season is time to eat well, hit the gym, and stew about all the projects you didn’t send.

It’s also prime time for training. Building finger strength is one of the best ways to improve as a climber, and hangboarding is among the best ways to build finger strength.

If you are in the market for a hangboard, you’re in luck — good options abound. As we learned during this test, different hangboards will suit climbers of different abilities and preferences. For details, read on.

Top Pick: Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center

For this hangboard, Trango teamed up with the Anderson brothers, authors of popular training bible The Rock Climber’s Training Manual.

The book goes into excruciating detail on constructing an effective training regimen, and the RPTC reflects the systematic mentality.

The main edges are variable, gradually growing smaller toward the outside of the board. Small dots at the rear of the hold provide tactile reference points.

On the one hand, this is a little disorienting — the index finger always has more to work with than the pinkie.

On the other hand, it means that precise progression is as simple as changing the location of your hands. It’s an intuitive way for climbers of many levels to push their limits.

Hold variety and progression are both strengths of the RPTC. In addition to the main edges, the board has a variety of pocket combinations, several possible pinch configurations, two slopers, two jugs, and two vicious square-edge crimps.

Almost any climber should be able to find trainable holds on the RPTC, which is impressive given its moderate size.

The other unique feature of the RPTC is its two-piece approach. The two halves of the board are mounted separately.

Mounting takes a little more time and care, but it allows users to customize placement for their body and preferences. This makes a real difference, and it’s a welcome innovation.

The RPTC isn’t without flaws though. The texture is on the harsh side, especially right out of the box.

While the hold variety is nice, it’s biased toward strong climbers. I’m a relatively advanced climber, and I still have to take weight off to get real use out of the pinches. This is a board that will likely be most effective when paired with a pulley system.

Perhaps the most obvious drawback to the RPTC is price. It’s the most expensive board in this test by a wide margin. It may be worth it for the right climber, but this is a board that requires commitment in more ways than one.

Still, for the dedicated trainee, this is the best all-around hangboard on the market. Paired with a solid training plan, it’s a formidable tool.

Product Specs

• Material: Polyurethane
• Dimensions: 9.1″ x 12.1″ per half

Full review: Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center

Runner-up: Metolius Contact

Although bested in score by the Trango RPTC, the Metolius Contact turned in a superb showing for an all-around board. Especially at the price, it’s an excellent option for climbers of all abilities.

The best part about the Contact is the sheer number and variety of holds.

It has edges of varying depths and angles, pockets to match, and even a pair of graduated pinches. There’s only one pair of slopers, but they’re enough to get by.

The Contact is likely oriented toward more advanced climbers, but it’s friendly enough that almost anyone can hop on. The jugs are nicely sized, and the edges offer easy progression from deep to shallow.

This is probably the most intuitive board to train on — it doesn’t require as much of a learning curve as the RPTC.

It’s worth noting the Contact’s size. At 32.5″ wide, it’s the largest we tested. That size is what allows for so many usable holds, but it’s worth scoping out your training location to make sure you have the room.

If you do, this board deserves a look. It’s not quite as laser-focused as the RPTC and not as cheap as our value pick, but as of this writing it’s a good deal cheaper than the former and more versatile than the latter.

Occupying that lovely middle ground, it’s a welcome training companion for climbers of all levels.

Product Specs

• Material: Polyester resin
• Dimensions: 32.5″ x 11″

Honorable Mention: Moon Fingerboard

These days, the phrase “Moon Board” calls to mind an LED-powered bouldering wall more than a hangboard, but this devilishly hard fingerboard has been a cult classic for years.

And I really do mean devilishly hard.

I’m a solid 5.12+ sport climber, and I have to take weight off to use many of the holds on the Moon board. The “jugs” on this board are incut finger jugs, and the slopers could just as reasonably be called crimps.

The Moon board is a simple hangboard. Featuring only 15 holds, it’s compact and focused. But the 15 holds have it where it counts.

The curving shapes of the board are ergonomic and pleasant to use. Despite their relative scarcity, the edges provide a nice variety of depths and shapes. The jugs are just enough to warm up on, and the slopers and pockets are excellent supplements.

Most hangboarding is focused on crimp strength, and in this arena the Moon board shines. It has some of the hardest crimps on the market. Thanks to thoughtful hold design, though, I never felt like I was in danger of injury.

The Moon board is among the smallest and lightest on the market. If you’re strapped for space, this board is a good option.

The price is equally diminutive. That’s no great surprise given the board’s size, but it’s still excellent value.

Because of its difficulty, we can’t recommend the Moon board to all climbers. But for advanced climbers, it’s one of the best options around.

Product Specs

• Material: Polyurethane
• Dimensions: 27.5″ x 5.5″

Best Value: Metolius Simulator 3D

This hangboard is a frequent sight at gyms, and it’s not hard to understand why. It’s an approachable and ergonomic board with something for nearly everyone.

Instead of a flat base, the architecture of the Simulator is gently curved. Hanging beneath the board, you pull in slightly instead of straight down.

This is a tad more ergonomic than most hangboards. Along with the Simulator’s width, it makes for an easy hang.

Hold variety is strong (despite the lack of pinches), but holds are generally geared to an intermediate audience. The three jugs are huge, and the majority of the edges and pockets are very deep.

On one hand, this is a good thing — for climbers in the strike zone, progression on the Simulator is gradual and intuitive. Metolius has a library of training resources for all their boards, and this board makes it easy to get started.

Advanced and elite climbers may find the holds on the Simulator a touch too large. It’s always possible to crank up a workout by adding weight, but at a certain point it’s useful to train on smaller holds.

As a result, the Simulator takes home our Best Value award. But let us be clear: it’s best for intermediate climbers. Up to the 5.12s and .13s, most climbers will find plenty to do on this board. Those new to hangboarding can pair it with a beginner hangboard workout for some quick gains.

Product Specs

• Material: Polyester resin
• Dimensions: 28″ x 8.75″

Reviews of the 3 Other Hangboards We Tested

So iLL Iron Palm

The design of this board is deceptively simple, but that didn’t stop it from becoming another favorite in training. Designed by veteran pro Jason Kehl, the Iron Palm has a few singular virtues.

The first of these is the slopers. Most climbers don’t look to hangboarding to improve on slopers, but for those who do, the Iron Palm has our favorite pair.

Instead of the traditional vertical slope, the Iron Palm features two large and widely spaced half-spheres, which you can grab however you like. They’re more ergonomic and more pleasant to hang on than any other slopers we tested.

The second aspect we love is the wide crimp rails. On some boards, the edges you need may be clustered near the center. This can pinch the shoulders, diminishing both comfort and training strength.

On the Iron Palm, the edges extend from one side to the other, so every climber can grab where it feels comfortable. The pinch combinations are equally thoughtful and provide a useful training supplement.

The downside: these elements are all you get. Four rails of varying depths, two slopers, and two pinch sets.

For many climbers, this is enough — the rails provide an intuitive progression, and pocket strength can still be trained by selectively removing fingers. But the Iron Palm doesn’t offer as much hold variety as competitors.

The final argument in the Iron Palm’s favor is price. It’s good value for an all-around hangboard. If you’re into simplicity and slopers, it may be all you need.

Product Specs

• Material: Polyurethane
• Dimensions: 27″ x 11.5″

Metolius Project

The Metolius Project is pleasant but ultimately limited.

This board looks and feels like an abbreviated version of the Simulator 3D. It has a similar gentle curve, and the hold shapes feel just as friendly. It’s intuitive, ergonomic, and accessible for almost any climber.

Unfortunately, the hold selection is paltry. The smallest edges on the Project are still deep, and there isn’t enough variety for a consistent progression. Advanced climbers will find this board far too limiting for serious work.

The biggest draw of the Project is price. It’s by far the cheapest full hangboard in this test. It’s also compact — along with the Moon board, this board is the easiest to mount in small spaces.

But in the end, the compromises are too great for us to recommend the Project. It’s better than nothing, but if you have the cash we’d recommend spending up to one of the other all-around options.

Product Specs

• Material: Polyester resin
• Dimensions: 24.5″ x 6″

Metolius Rock Rings 3D

To be fair to the Rock Rings, they were never on equal footing in this test. Instead of an actual board, the Rock Rings are two independently suspended holds, with several different grips on each.

Given their obvious limitations, the Rock Rings were never going to turn in a winning score against the full-fledged boards.

Hold selection is limited to four pairs: jugs and three different sizes of pocket. It’s possible to simulate progression with finger positioning, but it’s more trouble than it’s worth.

Despite their low score, the Rock Rings are not without their uses. Independent suspension makes for ergonomic pulls and opens up a wide variety of training options.

I use Rock Rings to work everything from offset pull-ups to front levers. They provide a versatile and ergonomic platform for all manner of pull exercises, which can be customized using the hold selection.

The Rock Rings are also a decent travel option. They’re compact, versatile, and require only two points to hang. If you have room in a suitcase, the Rock Rings are a better hang than hotel-room door jambs.

Finally, the Rock Rings are cheap, and they can often be found on sale. For the cost, it’s not hard to add a pair to an existing setup or use the rings as a mobile option.

We wouldn’t recommend the Rings as a standalone training system, but they can be a good complement for dedicated climbers.

Product Specs

• Material: Polyester resin
• Dimensions: 7.25″ x 5.75″ per ring

Summary

Here are the best hangboards:

• Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center
• Metolius Contact
• So iLL Iron Palm
• Moon Fingerboard
• Metolius Simulator 3D
• Metolius Project
• Metolius Rock Rings 3D

How to Choose the Best Hangboard for Your Needs

Here I’d like to insert a brief caveat:

In my opinion, hangboarding is best implemented as one element of a training plan for intermediate to advanced climbers. For climbers who are still beginning their rock climbing journey, hangboarding can be a quick route to injury.

Don’t be afraid to skip hangboarding for a while. And if you don’t believe me, believe 5.15 climber Jonathan Siegrist.

Types of Hangboard

Hangboards can be divided into two main categories: wooden and plastic.

Wooden hangboards have a skin-friendly texture, but they’re less common and can be expensive.

We didn’t test any wooden hangboards in this latest update because two of the most popular models, the Beastmaker 1000 and Beastmaker 2000, are not widely available in the US. If you’re interested in a wooden board a popular option is the Metolius Wood Grips Compact II.

Plastic hangboards are always some variety of either polyester resin or polyurethane. Polyurethane is lighter and a touch more abrasive, but in practice I haven’t noticed a real training difference between the two.

As long as you’re comfortable hanging on your board of choice, I wouldn’t worry about the material.

Hold Selection

All climbers have unique styles, strengths, and weaknesses. If you’re approaching training with specific goals, it’s worth choosing a hangboard that will help you grow.

If you frequent blocky, overhung routes, you may want to find a way to train your pinch strength. If you know you struggle on slopers, find a board where you can get comfortable on them. If you just need to increase your crimp strength (don’t we all), make sure to get a board with a progression that suits you.

Difficulty

A few of the hangboards we tested manage to cater to a wide variety of climbers, while others are more focused. Choose a board that’s right for your ability level.

Intermediate climbers may enjoy the Metolius Simulator 3D, and elite climbers will get plenty of challenge from the Moon Fingerboard.

If you’re unsure, one of the all-around boards (Metolius Contact, So iLL Iron Palm, or Trango RPTC) may be a good fit.

This is a rare area of climbing where it doesn’t pay to be aspirational. I would love to say that I train all day on the Moon board’s smallest crimps, but I’m just not strong enough. Your time will be far more productively spent on holds that you can hang onto.

Space Constraints

Scope out your training space before you invest in a board. Some of these boards (like the Moon board and the Metolius Project) can fit in tight spaces. Others, like the Metolius Contact, take up quite a bit of real estate.

If you’re trying to train without drilling holes, you may need to invest in a solution like the Blank Slate bars — or just build your own.

How We Tested

This was one of my simpler gear tests. There was only one way to test these boards — I mounted them one after another and got down to training.

My routine usually involves plenty of repeater hangs, but I also used the boards for exercises like moving hangs, pull-ups, and core work.

Once I had trained hard on all the boards, I double-checked my impressions with the other climbing member of our household. I then rated all boards in three categories: hold selection, ergonomics, and training progression.

Hold Selection

How much variety does the board provide? Do I have all the types I need for a complete training program?

Ergonomics

How pleasant is the board to use? How useful are the hold shapes? How hard is training on my joints and body?

Training Progression

How intuitive is it to create progressive challenge? If I grow as a climber, can this board grow with me?

The post 7 Best Hangboards for Climbing appeared first on 99Boulders.

Let’s be honest here and call rock climbing what it is: a cult.

Ritualistic indoctrination? Yep. Tight-knit community? Yes. Excessive zeal and unquestioning commitment? Check. Arcane jargon? You bet.

But if you hear a friend or family member dropping terms like “onsight” or “dyno” in everyday conversation, don’t panic.

They’re just starting their journey with one of America’s new favorite sports.

Unless you’re panicking about what to get them for the holidays, that is — because odds are they’ll be making requests for unfamiliar gear of all kinds.

Maybe they’re just starting climbing. Maybe you know a veteran rock warrior. Maybe you’re even a rock climber yourself, looking for the perfect gift for your belaytionship partner.

Regardless of your situation, we’ve compiled a list of our favorite gifts for rock climbers and boulderers, organized by the level of zeal (ahem, experience) of the climber in your life.

Gifts for Beginner Climbers

Your climber is just beginning their journey, but clearly going to stick with it. The right gear will help them on their way.

1. La Sportiva Finale Climbing Shoe

The first few times in a climbing gym, most climbers start out with rental shoes. They’ll work fine, but they’re usually limited in ability (not to mention fit).

More to the point, they cost money to rent. Because of this climbing shoes are one of every climber’s first purchases.

The La Sportiva Finale shoes are our top pick in our guide to the best beginner climbing shoes. They’re precise enough to grow with a new climber’s abilities, but versatile enough to handle all types of terrain.

It’s always worth trying on shoes beforehand, but the Finale’s lace-up system allows climbers with different foot shapes to dial in the right fit.

Check Price – Men’s Check Price – Women’s

2. Black Diamond Solution Climbing Harness

After buying shoes, tracking down a climbing harness is the next step for beginning climbers (as long as they’re not limited to the bouldering wall).

For climbers who top-rope or lead climb, a harness is another piece of gear that gets used on every climbing day, so it’s worth finding one that’s comfortable.

The Black Diamond Solution is a nice balance of comfort, versatility, and budget. Fixed leg loops are low-maintenance for gym days, but the Solution’s gear loops are big enough to handle gear should your climber venture outside.

Check Price – Men’s Check Price – Women’s

3. Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Of course, just as important as a harness is the device on the other end of the rope.

Belay devices are what keep climbers off the ground when they fall, and they’re diverse in form and function.

For gym use, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is a competent and budget-friendly pick. It’s our best value pick in our guide to the best belay devices.

Check Price

4. Arc’teryx C80 Chalk Bag

Rounding out every climber’s essential equipment is the loyal chalk bag. Chalk bags have a simple job: hold climbing chalk to keep a climber’s hands dry.

Good options abound, but the Arc’teryx C80 is our favorite chalk bag. The Petzl Saka is a little easier on the wallet and still an excellent choice for most climbing needs. If your climber has a big personality, find them a unique chalk bag to match.

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5. FrictionLabs Unicorn Dust Climbing Chalk

Inside every chalk bag and bucket must be plenty of chalk. Every climber gets sweaty, and no one likes to grease off of holds.

Surprisingly, not all chalks are created equal. We did a blind test of seven different brands of climbing chalk, and FrictionLabs came out on top.

Check Price

6. Climbing Gym Pass or Classes

Early in a climber’s career, opportunities to learn abound. Most gyms offer classes on topics like climbing technique, injury prevention, and outdoor climbing skills.

These classes can be an accessible way to expand horizons and improve as a climber. Many classes are free for gym members, but others require a fee and make an excellent gift.

If a burgeoning climber doesn’t have a gym membership, a punch pass or short-term membership goes a long way. Especially in wintry areas, access to a climbing gym is all but essential.

If your climber doesn’t have a go-to gym yet, check out our climbing gym directory to find one close to you.

Gifts for Intermediate Climbers

Your climber is knowledgeable and committed. They may not be climbing El Cap yet, but they know their way around the wall.

7. prAna Stretch Zion Pant (Women’s Counterpart: prAna Halle Pant)

From boulderers to trad climbers, every climber loves a good pair of pants. Good climbing pants must be durable, breathable, and highly mobile.

In our roundup of the best climbing pants on the market, prAna’s classic climbing pants reigned supreme. They move exceptionally well, have just the right features for climbing, and boast impressive durability.

Check Price – Men’s Check Price – Women’s

8. Petzl Grigri 2 Belay Device

For a serious (roped) climber, a Grigri is worth the investment. Grigri devices offer assisted braking, which takes the strain off a belayer’s hands and, in some circumstances, makes for a safer belay.

Sport climbers swear by the Grigri, but it’s a versatile device in many types of climbing. Despite remaining unchanged for years, it’s still our top pick in our guide to the best belay devices.

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9. Wild Country Pro Key Nut Tool

If your climber is interested in trad (short for traditional) climbing, a nut tool should be among their first purchases. Nut tools are what climbers use to remove protective gear from cracks and fissures.

There are two main advantages to buying a nut tool early.

First, it makes you an attractive climbing partner. If you have a nut tool and are willing to clean gear on follow, many experienced climbers will be happy to share their knowledge.

Second, nut tools allow you to free abandoned gear — which can form the beginning of your very own trad rack!

The Wild Country Pro Key is our favorite nut tool, and it can be bought with a leash to prevent accidental drops.

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10. Sterling Nylon Sling & Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners

For climbers who want to try climbing outside, an anchor setup is another essential purchase.

Just like a nut tool, having anchor gear (and knowing how to use it) makes you a more desirable climbing partner.

Some climbers opt for a PAS, but we prefer a simple sling or two. Sterling makes our favorite nylon sling.

Paired with a couple Petzl Attaches, our favorite locking carabiner, this gear can be used for everything from trad climbing to top-ropes.

Check Price – Sterling Nylon Sling Check Price – Petzl Attache

11. Sublime Slimline Climbing Brush

Most serious climbers — and certainly every boulderer — can benefit from a good climbing brush.

Brushes clean the chalk and grime off of dirty holds, and they can make a real difference on project climbs.

The Sublime Slimline walked away with both the top pick and best value awards in our roundup of the best climbing brushes.

It’s practical and versatile, and for the price it can’t be beat.

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12. Organic Climbing Lunch Bag Chalk Bucket

For the serious boulderer, a solid chalk bucket is a must have. Buckets hold more chalk, allow two-handed access, and prevent chalk from being wasted.

Organic’s bucket design is a time-tested favorite in the bouldering world. The closure system is simple velcro, and the 1000D nylon fabric is durable enough to last for years.

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13. Metolius Climbing Tape

Climbing tape is another essential piece of gear for nearly every climber. Trad climbers make tape gloves, and every climber needs to protect their worn digits.

The Metolius Climbing Tape is our top pick for an all-around climbing tape. It works well for tape gloves, but it’s just as capable in use every day at the gym.

It’s another time-tested option, and it’s budget-friendly to boot.

Check Price

Gifts for Advanced Climbers

Your climber is a devotee. They’re serious about their climbing, and they have experience both indoors and out.

14. ClimbOn Original Bar Climbing Salve

Especially outside, climbing takes a toll on the skin. Serious climbers take skin recovery seriously, and a climbing salve makes a noticeable difference.

Conventional skin moisturizers soften skin, which isn’t ideal for climbing — dedicated salves help skin recover without softening skin or callouses.

After a test of the best options on the market, we declared ClimbOn’s Original Bar our favorite. It’s easy to apply, a reliable recovery aid, and among the cheaper salves.

Check Price

15. Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center

For most serious climbers, training is an essential part of the schedule. Hangboarding is one of the best ways to build finger strength and endurance.

For dedicated trainees, the Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center is among the best options available, and it’s our top pick in our guide to the best hangboards. It offers an excellent hold selection, with enough customizability to match each individual’s training goals.

For bonus points, pick up the accompanying training book: The Rock Climber’s Training Manual.

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16. Mad Rock R3 Crash Pad

If your boulderer is adventuring outside, they can use a good crash pad. Crash pads protect boulderers from falls, but they also double as backpacks, seats, and even mattresses.

The Mad Rock R3 has a unique baffle design that helps it conform to terrain. It protects falls well, and it’s thick enough to work on a variety of problems.

There are a few good pads on the market, but the R3 is our top pick.

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17. Mammut 9.8 Eternity Climbing Rope

Where would climbers be without ropes? A good rope is mandatory on ascents from short sport routes to long alpine epics.

9.8mm is a good all-around thickness — thin enough for sport climbers working on projects, but beefy enough to withstand some abuse on trad climbs. The Mammut Eternity is a light and versatile pick, and it comes with various levels of dry treatment for alpinists.

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18. Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraws

Quickdraws are essential equipment for any variety of roped climbing. They link the gear in the wall to the climber’s rope, allowing movement but providing protection.

Petzl’s Spirit Express draws are the Mercedes of sport climbing. Thick dogbone connectors are easy to grip, and the Spirit carabiners are among the best on the market.

Rack your climber up with 6 to 12 of these and they’ll be thanking you for years. There’s a reason the Spirit Express took home top honors in our guide to the best quickdraws.

Check Price

19. Five Ten Guide Tennie Approach Shoe

It may seem odd to have a dedicated shoe for getting to the wall — it’s just a hike, right?

But many cliffs require serious scrambling (or even some technical climbing) to access. Approach shoes are soled with sticky rubber, which makes them more reliable than traditional hikers on steep terrain.

Approach shoes aren’t limited to the approach — route setters at a gym frequently work in approach shoes, and some climbers use approach shoes to climb on longer routes or traverses.

As always with shoes, it’s best to find a good fit before purchasing. But with a good set of approach shoes, your climber will be more comfortable and more confident journeying to and from their ascents.

Check Price – Men’s Check Price – Women’s

20. The Dawn Wall Film

What with all the (deserved) hype over Free Solo, another excellent movie has flown more under the radar.

The Dawn Wall chronicles Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s attempt to free-climb the infamous and steep Dawn Wall of El Capitan.

It has all the hallmarks of a good climbing film: a plot full of twists, compelling central characters, and lots of sweat-inducing footage. It’s an inspiring movie, and well worth a watch.

Check Price

Gifts for Elite Climbers

Your climber has made climbing a priority in their life. It may be hard to get through a conversation with them without climbing coming up in some way. They’re highly experienced and have major climbing goals.

21. Climbskin Double-Sided Hand and Finger File

For the climber who’s really serious about skin care, a file is a must. Given time, callouses will build up and then tear off on sharp rock. That’s painful, but (to your climber, probably more importantly) it slows down skin recovery.

The solution is to file down callouses before they get large enough to tear off. The Climbskin file is curved to make filing fingers easy and comes with six different types of sandpaper.

As an alternative, a good pumice stone also helps with callous treatment.

Check Price

22. REI Co-op Flash 18

Of course, climbers need some way to carry all that gear. Larger objectives will require a larger pack, but the bite-sized REI Flash 18 is a worthy tool in the arsenal of almost any climber.

The uses for this little pack are surprisingly numerous.

It’s small and light enough to be worn on a long, multi-pitch ascent. It’s spacious enough to fit the essentials, but it will still stuff inside a crash pad for a day of bouldering. It even packs small enough to slide inside a larger pack as a summit pack.

And of course, it works just as well for day hikes or travel. Best of all, it’s reasonably priced for a climbing bag.

Check Price

23. Black Diamond Camalot C4

In the world of trad climbing, protective gear carries special significance. This is the gear that trad climbers place in cracks to protect themselves if they fall.

Black Diamond’s C4 cams have been the gold standard for years. They’re the most common cam at most crags, and for good reason — camming range, ease of use, and durability are all top-notch.

Even a single cam is a welcome addition to a trad rack. Ask your climber what size(s) they need before buying.

Check Price

24. Outdoor Research Ferrosi Softshell Jacket

In the gym, conditions are controlled and constant. Once climbing moves outdoors, the elements come into play.

Climbing conditions are ideal during the cooler months of spring and fall, when friction is high but the temperature is hospitable. Having the right set of layers makes a real difference.

The Outdoor Research Ferrosi is one of the most versatile jackets on the market. It’s light and breathable, but surprisingly weatherproof.

It won’t block out water like a rain jacket or hard shell, but it will fend off drizzle and cut wind like a champ. In the chillier months, it’s just the ticket for days outside.

Check Price – Men’s Check Price – Women’s

25. The Push by Tommy Caldwell

If your climber is a bookworm, snag a book that will keep them gripped. The Push is Tommy Caldwell’s memoir, and it’s an engaging read for more than just the climbing.

It’s a story of overcoming setback after setback, and it’s compelling on a human level as much as an athletic one.

There are plenty of other good climbing reads, whether it’s for technical instruction (try Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills), inspiration (The Trad Climber’s Bible), or reference (the guidebook to your climber’s favorite area).

Check Price

The post 25 Best Gifts for Rock Climbers & Boulderers appeared first on 99Boulders.

Click here for the most comfortable women’s climbing shoes.

Climbing shoes are supposed to be tight and painful, right?

Wrong.

Climbing shoes do not have to be uncomfortable and painful to wear, in fact. There are plenty of comfortable climbing shoes that will allow you to climb without foot pain. However, it can be hard to know without trying them on which climbing shoes are comfortable and which are not. For that reason, we have compiled this list of the most comfortable climbing shoes available today.

Most Comfortable: La Sportiva Mythos

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The La Sportiva Mythos is a classic climbing shoe that has been on the market for years. This flat-soled lace-up is also one of the most comfortable climbing shoes you can find, especially for those with narrow to normal-width feet (if you have wide feet, we recommend the Five Ten NIAD Moccasym).

The Mythos is best suited for slab climbing, moderate sport climbing, and multi-pitch climbing. If you’re looking for an all-day climbing shoe, you can wear the Mythos for hours without needing to take them off.

The Mythos isn’t the best at edging or hooking so it’s not the highest performing shoe on the list (that would be the Scarpa Maestro). It also isn’t ideal for overhung sport climbing or bouldering. But if you’ll be doing moderate sport climbing or want a climbing shoe that doesn’t hurt your feet, the Mythos is your best bet.

The Mythos is an unlined leather climbing shoe so it will stretch a decent amount. Your pair might be slightly uncomfortable until they are broken in, a process which won’t take long and will leave them feeling like slippers.

Best Value: Five Ten NIAD Moccasym

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The NIAD Moccasym is a comfortable climbing shoe at a comfortable price. It isn’t the cheapest option on the list (that would be the Evolv Defy), but it does offer the greatest performance bang for your buck.

The shoe is good at edging and smearing and excels at crack climbing and face climbing. It is ideal for all-day climbing, moderate sport climbing, or multi-pitch climbing. It won’t be the best option for bouldering or climbing on overhung faces.

As for comfort, the name of this shoe says it all. The Moccasym, with its slip-on design, is not only comfortable but easy to get on and off (if you ever want to take them off…). The shoe does stretch a lot so if you size them small they will be tight initially but, like the Mythos, they’ll break in to be very comfortable. While the Moccasym can fit a range of foot widths, it is best for normal-width to wider feet.

Your best bet is to size these shoes tight since they will stretch a lot. Also, they will likely dye your feet red in the beginning.

Most Comfortable High-Performance Option: Scarpa Maestro

Now I imagine that some of you are looking for the best of both worlds — a climbing shoe that is comfortable AND high-performing. The Mythos and NIAD Moccasym sure are comfy, but they aren’t the best for climbing tough and technical routes and problems. For you we instead recommend the Scarpa Maestro.

The Maestro is great at edging and performs well at a variety of climbing styles. Its edging and smearing abilities make it best suited for technical or long face climbs. Though not aggressively hooked, the shoe is also a solid option for overhung climbing and bouldering. It’s also well-suited for crack climbing. Overall, the Maestro is a well-rounded, high-performance climbing shoe.

Though it may be hard to believe, the shoe is still comfortable in spite of how high-performing it is. After they break in you can wear them all day due to their mostly flat sole and comfort build. They will stretch very little, if at all, so the break in is more a process of the shoe conforming to your foot than stretching lengthwise.

Best for Beginners: Evolv Defy

If you’ve recently started climbing you might have heard horror stories about climbing shoes — how you have to buy them super tight, how badly they hurt, or how you have to keep your toenails trimmed at all times.

This might be how some people wear their climbing shoes, but you don’t have to subject your feet to that if you don’t want to. The Evolv Defy is a comfortable entry-level climbing shoe that gets the job done, period. To give you an idea of their comfort level, I used to boulder in them for two hours straight without taking them off.

The Defy is not a high-performance climbing shoe, and it’s not trying to be. It is, instead, a comfortable, reliable, and relatively cheap climbing shoe suited for beginner to intermediate climbers. The Defy works well for entry-level bouldering and sport climbing and its flat sole is comfy enough to help you enjoy the sport without foot pain. For these reasons, we selected it as the best beginner climbing shoe.

The Defy is soft and not the best at edging but, as a beginner climber, you won’t need a shoe capable of edging on incredibly small holds yet. The shoes do smear well, though, and I found myself able to successfully “smedge” on plenty of holds in place of true edging when wearing the Defy.

If you’d like to learn more about this climbing shoe, read our full Evolv Defy review.

Most Comfortable Women’s Climbing Shoes

Many of the above shoes are men’s versions, so here we have included the most comfortable climbing shoes for women. Three of the shoes — the La Sportiva Mythos Eco Women’s, Scarpa Maestro Women’s, and Evolv Elektra — are women’s versions of shoes listed above.

The Five Ten NIAD Moccasym is a unisex shoe, one that fits wider feet better.

In general, women’s climbing shoes are narrower and lower volume than their male counterparts.

• La Sportiva Mythos Eco Women’s
• Scarpa Maestro Women’s
• Evolv Elektra (women’s version of the Evolv Defy; here’s our review of it)
• Unisex shoe: Five Ten NIAD Moccasym

How to Make Climbing Shoes More Comfortable

Maybe you already have a pair of climbing shoes you enjoy climbing in. Instead of buying a new pair, you’d rather make your current pair more comfortable and continue using them.

The best way to make climbing shoes more comfortable is to climb in them more. By climbing in them the shoes will soften, break in, and potentially stretch lengthwise (especially if the shoe is new, not so true if the shoe isn’t new).

If you just bought your shoes and they are a little tight, try different ways of breaking them in and see if that helps.

There are some ways to try to maximize the stretch of your climbing shoes, but if you’ve been climbing in your shoes for a while then I wouldn’t expect them to become much more comfortable. If general discomfort, not tightness, is the issue then you can always wear socks with your climbing shoes.

And know that if your shoes are made of leather, they will stretch lengthwise as you wear them. If they are made of a synthetic material, they will likely not stretch lengthwise much.

If everything fails, maybe your current climbing shoes are just too tight. If so, you can’t go wrong with any of the shoes listed above. They truly are some of the most comfortable climbing shoes available today.

The post Most Comfortable Climbing Shoes appeared first on 99Boulders.

We whittled down the market’s best nut tools to seven top contenders and then put them through their paces on all sorts of duties. The overall winner? The Wild Country Pro Key, by just a hair.

The Wild Country tool is one of the most functional and convenient tools available, but it faced stiff competition from the equally functional and ultralight Metolius Feather. Ultimately it was the features of the Pro Key that gave it the edge, but the Feather (along with a few other tools) put in a strong showing.

Let’s be clear right up front here: all of these nut tools will get the job done. Even our least favorite tool, the classic Black Diamond, does a perfectly adequate job in almost all circumstances — if you have one, there’s no need to throw it away. The differences in tools are mostly small conveniences or improvements that make your life a little easier.

That said, nut tools are one of the smallest and most durable investments you’ll make. I know climbers who have used the same nut tool for decades. Even the most expensive ones are still relatively cheap, so there’s no reason to get one that you don’t like.

Nut tools are also one of the most useful and lucrative investments in climbing. Even if you don’t have your own trad rack yet (you can learn how to build one here), having a nut tool makes you a more attractive partner for trad outings. If you’re diligent and a little lucky, you might score some booty gear to build/add to your rack. And of course, if you’re consistently trad climbing, having a good tool is a necessity.

Curious about the details? Read on.

Top Pick: Wild Country Pro Key with Leash

Because the general designs are so similar, what makes a good nut tool comes down to the details. The Pro Key won out here — it has the right set of features for most uses, including some that make it the most convenient and versatile nut tool around.

This nut tool is available either with or without a leash. Mine came with a leash, and I’ve generally been glad to have it. Dropping your nut tool is a bummer, and the leash has saved me at least once.

My fellow tester agreed that the extra peace of mind was worth it. It does take up a little more space on your gear loop, but generally when you’re cleaning this isn’t a big deal. It’s also easy to make a leash out of cord, so if you like the idea of a leash, you’re not limited to this tool (although the collapsing coils are a nifty space-saver).

The body of the tool is a clean, stainless-steel design with several small advantages. It’s long and beefy enough to endure sustained abuse, but it tapers down to a narrower tip. Four of the seven tested tools have a similar taper, and only partly by coincidence, they’re also our top four.

It only makes a difference in narrow cracks, but a narrow tip makes the tool more maneuverable when the going gets tight. The tip of the Pro Key is relatively narrow in both dimensions, which made it one of the most practical and versatile of the tested tools.

But perhaps the best design feature on the Pro Key is the large flange at the base of the tool. When I’m trying to free an especially stubborn nut, one of my main methods is to use the heel of my palm against the tool to bump the tool and free the nut. A flat rim at the end of a tool provides a base to strike and push against, which is both more comfortable and more precise.

Personally, this is one of the features that I most value in a nut tool. I’m not sure exactly why, but the same four nut tools that have tapered tips also have flanges. The one on the Pro Key is by far the largest, and I still find it the most comfortable and usable in the field.

Ultralight Pick: Metolius Feather

“This one’s awesome,” was how my fellow tester summed up the Feather. If you’re looking for a tool that you won’t notice on your harness, this is the one.

It’s the only tool we tested that’s made out of aluminum, and it’s noticeably lighter than the rest — the Feather weighs in at a paltry 21 grams. It somehow manages to pack in all the essential features of a good nut tool, albeit in minimalist form.

The wiregate on the nut tool is small but still very functional. The two Metolius tools have narrow tips, which makes the Feather excellent in small constrictions. There is a small platform at the base to brace your palm against, and it’s wide enough to get the job done. The tip of this nut tool even works as a bottle opener. For such a small package, it’s an impressively usable tool.

Because of its aluminum construction, durability was one of my concerns when I got this tool. It’s so light that it feels like it ought to bend or snap, but after a month of abuse it’s held up fine. This is a relatively short time period for a nut tool, but if the Feather continues to hold up, I’m sold. The Feather narrowly lost to the Pro Key because of the other tool’s wider base and convenient leash, but the Feather was our other favorite during testing.

Best Value: Metolius Torque

Metolius bills the Torque as its big-wall tool due to its durability and included wrenches. I didn’t have a chance to drag it up any walls, but it is a convenient and well-designed tool that retails for a few bucks less than other options.

The wrenches are indeed functional, although I don’t find them particularly useful. To date, I’ve never been in a scenario where I was on a climb, needed to tighten a bolt, and only had my nut tool handy. If you’re a regular wall climber, perhaps this situation comes up more often. It’s a nifty feature, but it’s not a game changer.

Otherwise, the Torque is almost identical to the Feather, except made out of stainless steel. The design is just as useful here, and the Torque is a solid all-arounder. If being able to tighten bolts is important to you, then this could be the tool of choice. It’s also cheaper than our other recommended options.

Reviews of the 4 Other Nut Tools We Tested

The other nut tools had some useful features (especially the Shark), but by and large they weren’t as well-received as the top three options. They’re all serviceable, but their designs are less polished.

Black Diamond Wiregate Nut Tool

The BD Wiregate has most of our favorite nut tool features, it’s just that they’re all a little poorly executed.

The tool does taper slightly, but it remains noticeably wider than our top three at the tip. It has a slight rim for your palm, but it’s narrow enough that it’s less comfortable.

The tool does have a good wiregate clip, and it’s made of burly steel. It does perfectly fine in most applications, it just wasn’t particularly impressive at anything.

Omega Pacific Solution

Along with the BD Wiregate, this was a nut tool that was adequate but never exceptional.

Some features are good: it has a compact design and a single bolt wrench, plus a stiff but decent wiregate attachment.

One of Omega Pacific’s selling points for this tool is the small tab opposite the hook — supposedly this tab makes it easier to hook cam lobes in some cases. In practice, I never found that it made much difference.

On the downside, the tool’s shape doesn’t taper at all, leaving it fairly wide at the tip. The straight base is supposed to make the tool easier to pound on, but the lack of a flange makes this uncomfortable. This is a decent all-around nut tool, but in most cases it’s outclassed by the competition.

Trango Shark

This is one of the more intriguing tools we tested, and it is a neat design. The Shark combines a traditional nut tool with a small climbing knife.

(The knife is sold on its own as the Trango Piranha. You can read our full review of it in our guide to the best climbing knives.)

The knife was actually pretty useful — we used it on things like food and tape, and it could conceivably be a lifesaver in a self-rescue scenario. Having it handy all the time was surprisingly nice.

Unfortunately, the Shark isn’t as good at being an actual nut tool. The shape doesn’t taper, and while the base is widened slightly by the knife, it’s still too narrow to provide a good platform. The tool’s hook is also fairly minimal: “It doesn’t really give you much to pull with,” said my other tester.

The carabiner hole works well as a locking mechanism for the knife, but it means that there’s no wiregate attachment. The Shark is also the heaviest tool we tested (not counting the Wild Country with leash). This isn’t all bad considering that you get two objects in one, but it is noticeable on your harness.

Black Diamond Nut Tool

Despite its classic status, the Black Diamond Nut Tool was our least favorite. It mostly gets the job done fine, but other tools will usually do better.

This BD has an entirely uniform thickness, which means that it remains fairly wide at the tip. “It’s kind of awkward,” said my fellow tester of the shape.

The base, which is designed as a bottle opener, works well for that application but means there’s no wiregate. It doesn’t give you a flange to pound on, and it doesn’t have any other real redeeming features.

Having a bottle opener isn’t even unique anymore — four of these seven tools are designed with beverages in mind, and the other three would probably work in a pinch. Other than nostalgic value, the competition has the BD outclassed.

Summary

Here are the best nut tools for climbing:

• Wild Country Pro Key with Leash
• Metolius Feather
• Metolius Torque
• Black Diamond Wiregate Nut Tool
• Omega Pacific Solution
• Trango Shark
• Black Diamond Nut Tool

How to Choose the Best Nut Tool for Your Needs

As I mentioned above, all of these nut tools will fulfill their basic purpose. However, there are a few major considerations to keep in mind.

Do you want a wiregate?

Most of these tools come with wiregate attachments, and that’s the style I tend to favor. As my tester put it: “I really don’t like having to clip a ‘biner on these, because I feel like it both makes it harder to push on and it’s harder to maneuver in cracks because the ‘biner gets in the way.”

Plus, with a wiregate you don’t have to use an extra carabiner on your tool. Your methods may vary, but we prefer the convenience and streamlined design of a wiregate.

How do you use your tool?

If, like me, you tend to use the heel of your palm to tap nuts free, then you’ll probably like the Wild Country Pro Key.

But some climbers clean differently. I met one climber who preferred pounding on his tool with a carabiner rather than his palm, and he insisted that the traditional Black Diamond had the best shape for this use.

If that’s your style, more power to you. Most of these tools can be used any way you want, but if you know you tend to like a large hook or a certain shape, then buy what you prefer.

Do you need any extra features?

Other than basic functionality, buying a nut tool comes down to the extra features.

Do you frequently find yourself wishing you could tighten a spinner? Buy the Metolius Torque. Do you like the idea always having a knife handy for self-rescue? Look at the Trango Shark (or just throw a Trango Piranha in your pack). Do you like the peace of mind and convenience of a well-designed leash? Get the Pro Key. Do you prefer your gear light? Grab the Feather.

All these tools do their job, so get the one with the features that matter most to you.

How We Tested

I carted all seven of these nut tools to every crag I went to for more than a month, which earned me plenty of funny looks. I took them up everything from the slabs of Cathedral to the roofs of the Gunks. I took whips on nuts and then had a showdown to see which tools could un-stick them. I pounded, pried, and hooked in as many configurations as I could manage.

Most of the characteristics that separate nut tools come down to functionality and features, so it was hard to come up with any truly quantitative tests.

When I did try all the tools on the same stuck nuts, I noticed that those with narrower tips (the Pro Key, Metolius tools, and BD Wiregate) tended to unstick the nuts a little more quickly.

Otherwise, most of the testing was necessarily qualitative. To get a second opinion, I had my usual trad partner try them all out as well. I scored the tools on three categories:

Functionality

How well does the tool fulfill its main purpose, which is to clean gear? How easy or hard is it to use? Does the design make your work easier or harder? This is the most important function of a nut tool, so this category was weighted most heavily in scoring.

Portability

How easy is the nut tool to carry along with you? Is it inconvenient? How light or heavy is it? Is it easy to handle and clip, or is it unwieldy?

Features

Is the tool providing any extra features or uses? How useful are the extra features? Do they get in the way of the tool’s main function? How well are the features designed and executed?

Shoutouts

Special thanks to Colin for helping me test the tools, and to everyone I climbed with for putting up with me talking about nut tools for a month.

The post 7 Best Climbing Nut Tools appeared first on 99Boulders.

We took 12 of the best non-locking carabiners on the market out for a round-robin competition. Different carabiners serve different needs, but at the end of the day two strong favorites emerged: the Wild Country Helium and the Petzl Spirit.

It’s easy to take the humble carabiner for granted. Many climbers spend hours researching shoes and belay devices but snag the first ‘biner they see on the shelf.

On one hand, this is understandable. Carabiners tend to be fairly cheap (although when you’re buying a full rack, they add up), and most carabiners share the same basic functionality as a connector. All the carabiners in our test will theoretically work in most scenarios.

But picking the right carabiner makes a surprisingly large difference in the quality of your climbing life. We learned firsthand which of the top carabiners perform best in the field — read on for details.

If you’re looking for locking carabiners, you’ll find our reviews and recommendations in our guide to the best locking carabiners.

Wire Gate Pick: Wild Country Helium

The Helium has practically defined the wire-gate genre for the past decade.

It’s still the gold standard. This is the carabiner that all the other wire gates try to live up to.

The Helium offers the best of all worlds: a lightweight and supremely usable carabiner with a wire gate and a keylock nose. A flared “hood” over the notch in the nose means that life with the Helium is snag-free.

It has the largest gate clearance of any carabiner in our test, and the thoughtful full-size shape is easy to handle in every application we could think of.

Competitors have rushed to copy and improve the Helium’s formula, but Wild Country still executes best.

The sole downside to the Helium is the price of entry. Wild Country charges a premium for the privilege of carrying Heliums — it’s the most expensive ‘biner in our test by a significant margin.

Solid Gate Pick: Petzl Spirit

Another classic, the Petzl Spirit has long been a favorite tool in the sport climber’s arsenal.

Its clean, ergonomic design makes for easy clipping and cleaning in both straight- and bent-gate form.

With one at each end, the Spirit Express quickdraw is the BMW of the sport-climbing world — pricey, but so nice to drive.

The Spirit’s talents aren’t limited to sport climbing, however. I personally use straight-gate Spirits to rack nuts, because I find the smooth shape and keylock nose make for easy handling on-route.

Some belay devices have features that require clipping a carabiner in as a handle, and the Spirit excels thanks to its clean shape and narrow nose.

To top it off, the Spirit is the lightest of all the solid-gate carabiners in our test. It’s not as slim as the wire-gate options, but all-around usability makes it the champ wherever handling is a priority.

Lightweight Pick: DMM Phantom

Too often, weight savings come at the cost of usability (*cough* Metolius *cough*).

The DMM Phantom is the lightweight carabiner that best approached the handling and user-friendliness of full-size ‘biners.

The DMM lacks one major feature of its main competition (the Black Diamond Oz and Petzl Ange), which is a keylock nose.

DMM does make a keylock version, the Chimera. But even in traditional form the DMM squeaked out a victory.

Despite having a smaller gate clearance, the Phantom was noticeably easier to handle than either the Oz or the Ange. It was hard for testers to specify why, but most pointed to the grip-friendly shape and the straight spine.

For whatever reason, this carabiner was hardly distinguishable from full-size ‘biners in practice. At a weight of 28 grams, that’s an impressive feat, one that the other ultralights failed to match.

Even with a traditional nose, the Phantom is the lightweight carabiner we recommed.

Most Durable: Petzl Djinn

The Djinn is like your first car: you buy it because you know it will take a beating.

Designed for durability, the Djinn packs extra grams of aluminum where it counts.

Wide and uniform contact surfaces around the basket make for excellent durability and predictable handling.

At the end of testing the Djinn showed hardly any wear, and we don’t doubt that it will perform for years to come. The Djinn is affordable for a solid-gate carabiner.

The penalty for durability is weight: the Djinn is the second-heaviest ‘biner in our test. It would be an excellent beater carabiner for projects or sport climbing, but tradsters should seek out lighter options.

Best Value: Mad Rock Ultralight Wire Gate

The Mad Rock Ultralight is not the most sophisticated design, nor the most usable, nor the lightest.

What it is is cheap and functional. As of this writing it’s tied for cheapest carabiner in our test with the similar Trango Phase.

Despite being a gram heavier, testers felt that the Mad Rock was a hair more usable, so it wins our value award.

“Ultralight” might be an overstatement, but 31 grams is light enough. It’s in the middle usability-wise, but we never found a reason to dislike it.

Our lone caveat is the squared-off rope-bearing surface — although we don’t have the equipment to confirm, we suspect that the shape increases rope drag slightly in quickdraws.

We wouldn’t be thrilled if this were the only carabiner we could use, but we also wouldn’t mind racking cams on Ultralights. If you’re looking to cut your budget, the Mad Rock isn’t a bad place to start.

Reviews of the 7 Other Carabiners We Tested

Black Diamond Oz

The Oz has all the ingredients of a winner: smooth design, a clever hooded keylock nose, and a lean 28-gram weight.

Truth be told, I expected this carabiner to walk away with an award.

But while it was a solid performer, the Oz was not a favorite. Its weakness is usability: the rounded spine felt slippery and unpredictable, and the gate’s tension is inconsistent.

The Oz still performs its duties, but it didn’t inspire confidence. When we’re high off the ground we prefer predictability, which gave the DMM Phantom the edge.

Camp Photon Wire

After the Wild Country Helium, the Camp Photon has the largest gate clearance of any wire gate in our test.

Testers with large hands appreciated the Photon’s chunky design, and the wide surfaces make for smooth handling. At 30 grams, the Photon is impressively lightweight for its size.

But the Photon was betrayed by its gate. By the end of testing, the wire gate was starting to lose its springiness slightly.

This eventually happens with most wire gates, but the Photon showed wear before competitors. It’s possible that we got a dud, but it’s hard to know.

For the price, the Photon isn’t too dear to replace, but we’d rather have a wire-gate we know is built to last. That’s a shame, because the Photon was otherwise a strong competitor.

Black Diamond Neutrino

The Neutrino is a frequent sight at any trad crag. It’s Black Diamond’s mainstream model, the one most often paired with Camalots on racks.

As far as performance goes, the Neutrino is as average as it gets.

It’s not heavy, but it’s not light. Durability seems solid, and handling is adequate but not easy.

As is the case with so many Black Diamond products, the motto seems to be: offend not, excel not.

This is the vanilla ice cream of wire-gates — cheap and dependable, but it’s not too hard to do better.

Petzl Ange S

Another innovative design, the Petzl Ange swaps the traditional wire-gate loop for a single rod of metal.

Petzl claims it’s a more durable design, and while they might be right, it’s also not as easy to use.

The Ange S’s gate clearance is impressive for a 28-gram carabiner, but we still found ourselves fumbling when clipping and unclipping.

The high-tension gate requires a steady hand, and the rubber at the base of the gate improves but doesn’t alleviate the problem.

The Ange’s smooth design was otherwise pleasant, but it failed to win over testers. As of this writing it’s the second-most expensive ‘biner in our test and doesn’t offer exceptional value.

Petzl makes a larger version (Ange L) that may handle better, but it’s heavier and even more expensive.

Trango Phase

The Phase tips the scales at a relatively light 30 grams, but the funky spine was a turn-off for testers.

“It feels harder to clip,” went one complaint, and by the end of the test the Phase was not among anyone’s favorites.

It’s a budget-friendly choice, but in our opinion the Mad Rock Ultralight Wire Gate is a slightly better buy.

Black Diamond Positron

The Black Diamond Positron is another veteran of sport crags, but it didn’t impress in testing.

The wide, solid beams make for the heaviest weight of any carabiner in our test, but the gate still feels flimsy and inconsistent.

Compared to the confidence-inspiring feel of Petzl’s solid gates, the Positron was much less pleasant to use.

With no significant price advantage and a small weight penalty, we can’t think of many reasons to recommend it.

Metolius FS Mini II

The Mini II is the lightest carabiner in our test, but it was also among the least user-friendly.

The gate clearance is a puny 17.5 mm, and the Mini feels like a toy in large hands. For daily use, we prefer a more usable ‘biner.

In the Mini’s favor, it performs adequately after a small learning curve.

For hardcore alpinists, there’s an argument to be made for the Mini II as an ultralight racking ‘biner or gear-side connector.

We can’t imagine that long-term durability is all that good, but the Mini II is blessedly cheap. A few ounces of weight savings might be worth the trouble for some.

Summary

Here are the best carabiners for rock climbing:

• Wild Country Helium
• Petzl Spirit
• DMM Phantom
• Petzl Djinn
• Black Diamond Oz
• Camp Photon Wire
• Black Diamond Neutrino
• Petzl Ange S
• Mad Rock Ultralight Wire Gate
• Trango Phase
• Black Diamond Positron
• Metolius FS Mini II

How to Choose the Best Non-Locking Carabiner for Your Needs

Types of Non-Locking Carabiners

Non-locking carabiners play many roles, but they’re most commonly used to rack gear and construct quickdraws.

One of the most important features is shape — although D-shaped and oval carabiners have their uses, for this test we confined ourselves to asymmetrical-D carabiners.

Wire Gates vs. Solid Gates

Traditionally, wire-gate and solid-gate carabiners have distinct pros and cons.

Solid-gate ‘biners have snag-free keylock noses, strong durability, and easy clipping. Wire-gate versions are lighter, don’t freeze shut as easily, and suffer less gate flutter (the opening of a gate during a fall, which can theoretically lead to dangerous scenarios).

Nowadays, many carabiners offer more of the complete package. Solid-gate ‘biners are getting lighter, while many wire gates have their own version of keylock noses.

Still, the patterns generally hold. Solid-gate carabiners are most pleasant to clip, which is why they show up at sport crags where weight is less critical. Wire gates are still the lightest, which makes them the choice for trad climbers and alpinists.

Bent Gate vs. Straight Gate

Straight-gate carabiners offer predictable grip and handling, while bent-gate ‘biners have a larger gate clearance and are slightly easier to clip.

While some wire-gate ‘biners do have both bent and straight forms, the difference is most pronounced on solid-gate carabiners.

Straight-gate ‘biners usually connect to gear, while bent gates occupy the rope-side position in quickdraws.

Weight vs. Size

While a few large carabiners manage to keep weight down, usually lighter carabiners shave weight by losing size.

Weight savings can add up — a rack might include 40 carabiners or more, so adding 3 grams per carabiner means over a quarter of a pound in total.

Still, smaller size usually means trickier handling. Different climbers have different preferences along this spectrum, depending on style, rack, and locale.

How We Tested

To begin, we put all 12 carabiners through a bevy of basic tests for common tasks like clipping a rope or racking gear.

To see if the test results matched our intuitions, we took them out in the field and used them to build draws, clip bolts, and rack protection.

At the end of the day, ‘biners were scored on their usability then durability, with a final modifier for weight.

Usability

How easy is the carabiner to handle? How well does it perform in various roles? How often do I find myself mishandling or snagging? This category was weighted most heavily.

Durability

How well did the carabiner hold up through testing? Did any parts of the carabiner show unusual wear?

Weight

How much of a weight penalty do I pay by selecting this carabiner?

The post 12 Best Non-Locking Carabiners appeared first on 99Boulders.

We bought five of the best grip strengtheners and tested them on hands of all sizes. The IronMind Captains of Crush Hand Gripper is our favorite thanks to its efficacy and superior build quality.

For how simple it is to train, grip strength is frequently neglected. What’s more, its applications are surprisingly diverse.

Power lifters are probably the biggest beneficiaries, but everyone from pianists to rock climbers cares about grip strength. And we could all use a little more confidence in our handshake, right?

Luckily, training grip is neither difficult nor expensive. Specialized disciplines may call for specialized training, but there’s just one fundamental exercise: squeeze really hard.

All these products help accomplish that goal. What’s more, they’re all fairly good. I’m reasonably confident that with a well-structured program any of these five devices could help you effectively build grip strength.

All the same, differences in build and budget make for different experiences. For individual details, read on.

Top Pick: IronMind Captains of Crush Hand Gripper

Thanks in part to its catchy name, the Captains of Crush Hand Gripper is a popular and time-tested option among grip strengtheners.

After living with one for a month, it’s not too hard to see why.

Of all the devices we tested, this is the one that felt most like a true piece of gym equipment. Burly, ergonomic, simple, and brutally efficient.

The design is straightforward: two diamond-textured handles separated by a simple three-coil spring.

Forged of aluminum and steel, the Gripper is hefty but not too heavy. With no moving parts, the device is as durable as they come.

The handle angle fits neatly in the hand and allows a full range of motion. With this device, it was easy to execute a simple and effective hand workout.

IronMind is on your side here — they provide helpful training instructions on the packaging and offer a downloadable training booklet. Their advice is sound: warm up, focus on quality over quantity, and train progressively.

That last recommendation is where the Gripper falters slightly. IronMind offers a wide range of resistances (up to a seriously beefy 365 pounds), but you’ll have to buy an individual Gripper for each one.

Progressing requires a significant investment. IronMind recommends having a warm-up Gripper, a work-set gripper, and a stretch-goal gripper.

That’s a noble aim, but even a single Gripper is the most expensive device in our test. Not everyone has that much cash to spend on their grip.

Dinging accessibility even further, testers with especially small hands found the Gripper less usable. Most managed well enough, but the petite-fingered were forced to slide their hands up the handles, decreasing leverage and comfort.

And while 60 pounds is a decent introductory resistance, it may still be too heavy for some.

As a result, the Gripper is best for the devotee. If grip strength isn’t a priority, one of the cheaper or adjustable grip strengtheners will get the job done. But if you’re serious about training, the Captains of Crush Hand Gripper is as good as it gets.

Best Finger Trainer: Gripmaster Pro Hand Exerciser

This category is worth setting on its own, because not all strengtheners can target individual fingers.

In fact, Gripmaster (in various forms) seems to have that niche cornered.

For disciplines like climbing or music, training individual fingers may be critical. If you’ve never tried a Gripmaster, you may be surprised at how relatively weak some of your fingers are.

Luckily, Gripmaster delivers a solid product. The primary differences between the Gripmaster Pro and the regular Gripmaster (reviewed below) are the Pro’s larger range of motion and padded finger surfaces.

The Pro also offers a heavier maximum tension, although, like the Captains of Crush Hand Gripper, it isn’t adjustable so you’ll have to buy a new device when you progress.

Those virtues make the Pro the choice for gripsters who are serious about finger strength.

The larger range of motion makes workouts much more efficient, and the padded fingertips make difficult workouts more comfortable. Dedicated trainees will likely exceed the regular Gripmaster’s maximum tension of 9 pounds per finger.

The Pro is not without its flaws. We found the palm-rest shape to be slightly less secure and comfortable than the regular Gripmaster, thanks to the lack of a thumb-side tab. The larger range of motion was less friendly for testers with small hands, some of whom found the device too wide to be ergonomic.

The Pro is also the second most expensive device in our test. It’s not too much more than the regular Gripmaster, but it still requires multiple buys to progress.

For all these reasons, the Gripmaster Pro is best suited to serious trainees with medium to large hands.

Best Value: Luxon Hand Grip Strengthener

The price of the Luxon strengthener is in the ballpark of most of our devices, but it comes in packs of two.

As long as you can buy with a friend, that makes it an excellent budget pick.

For the price, the Luxon device is versatile, accessible, and surprisingly effective. It’s not the most sophisticated or durable gripper, but it gets the job done, especially for beginners.

The Luxon’s primary virtue is its adjustability. The two handles are connected by a hinge, which sits below a spring with a screw-adjusted length. Lengthening the spring increases tension at the handles.

The tension begins at a mild 22 pounds, which is friendly enough for almost anyone to train. The screw is intuitive and takes only seconds to adjust.

The spectrum maxes out at 120 pounds. We found this resistance level to be plenty for all but the most serious trainees.

The downside is comfort. Most testers found the Luxon trainer less ergonomic, and the thinly padded plastic isn’t as comfortable during workouts. On the other hand, testers with small hands still found a good grip on the Luxon.

The chief argument in the Luxon’s favor is value. If you were serious about gains but only wanted to buy a single gripper, this is the one to get. It’s simple and not quite as well crafted as other options, but it’s effective nonetheless.

And if the Luxon price jumps or you only want a single device, shop around — duplicates litter Amazon.

Gripmaster Hand Exerciser

The conventional Gripmaster is still a good option for anyone looking to target specific fingers.

It’s more approachable than the Gripmaster Pro, and although it won’t take you quite as far, it may be a better option for some.

Despite our test models having the same claimed finger tension, the traditional Gripmaster feels like an easier squeeze.

That’s mostly down to a smaller range of motion, which also makes the original friendlier for those with small hands.

The rubber palm grip can chafe over time, but it’s secure and ergonomic. The finger pads have no padding, which makes them a little less comfortable than those on the Pro.

But the Gripmaster still delivers on its essential promise, which is a training program that encompasses all the fingers. The tension for the Gripmaster starts at just 1.5 pounds per finger, which is an accessible entry point for beginners or grip rehab.

This Gripmaster isn’t adjustable either, but it’s among the cheaper devices in the test. If you don’t need a heavy-duty finger trainer, or your digits are suited to a smaller size, the Gripmaster won’t disappoint.

Kootek Hand Grip Strengthener

At first glance, the Kootek grip strengthener seems to promise the best of both worlds. It shares the basic design of the Captains of Crush Hand Gripper but offers adjustable tension.

In practice, neither aspect is executed well enough to take home any awards. The Kootek is still a competent strengthener, it just wouldn’t be our first choice.

The aluminum alloy handles are a hair smaller in diameter than the Captains of Crush, and as a result they dig into the hands more.

The angle of pull is altered as well, which makes the motion feel less ergonomic.

The adjustability is functional but not particularly pleasant. The design is innovative — the top portion of each handle unscrews, allowing the inner beam to slide out.

The greater the distance between the handles and the coils, the lesser the tension. Kootek claims a range of 50-150 pounds, but the heavier tensions feel light for the weight, and tension isn’t always consistent throughout the range of motion.

To make matters worse, the inner aluminum arm is coated in a grease-like lubricant. That makes adjustment easy, but it also means that your table (not to mention your hands) are likely to get some secondhand grease.

Needless to say, that’s not ideal for grip training. The screw-top handles are a little finicky to manipulate, especially when re-screwing after adjustment.

All in all, the Kootek is a little more trouble than it’s worth. That’s a shame, because for its price it would be a good value.

As a budget-friendly intro trainer, it’s still not a terrible option. But for most trainees, we feel there are better buys.

Summary

Here are the best grip strengtheners:

• IronMind Captains of Crush Hand Gripper
• Gripmaster Pro Hand Exerciser
• Luxon Hand Grip Strengthener
• Gripmaster Hand Exerciser
• Kootek Hand Grip Strengthener

How to Choose the Best Grip Strengthener for Your Needs

Types of Grip Strengtheners

The strengtheners in this test fall into a few basic categories, which I’ll call coil, spring, and articulated.

Coil strengtheners are built around a coil of metal (in this case, aluminum alloy). The gripping motion tightens the coil, which returns to its original position on the negative of each rep. The IronMind and Kootek devices fall into this category.

Spring-based strengtheners have handles separated by a hinge and bound by a spring. The tension and length of the spring dictate the difficulty of the squeeze. The Luxon strengthener is an example of a spring-based strengthener.

Finally, articulated strengtheners allow each finger to be squeezed individually. They’re built around a series of springs, which separate the contact patches from a central platform. The Gripmaster series is the most popular line of articulated grip strengtheners.

As a side note, all these grip strengtheners train what Breaking Muscle calls crush strength, or the grip between your fingers and your palm. Climbers looking to train pinch strength will need different exercises, and grip endurance requires a different approach.

For crush strength, however, choosing a grip strengthener comes down to a few basic priorities.

Do You Need to Train Individual Fingers?

This question is down to what you need your grip for. If you’re a lifter or want a strong handshake, it’s fine (and even preferable) to train the grip all at once. After all, that’s how you’ll be using it. These trainees ought to look at coil and spring strengtheners.

Climbers, guitarists, and pianists may want a more targeted approach. These disciplines call for dexterity and strength in each digit — many climbing holds only have room for a finger or two. Trainees looking to assess individual fingers should look into articulated strengtheners.

Fixed vs. Adjustable

Fixed-tension grip strengtheners are set at a particular resistance level. Once you outgrow one you’ll have to buy a new device to advance. Many brands offer their strengtheners in multiple tension levels.

If you’re serious about grip training, the static strengtheners are the more efficient and well-built group. They have fewer moving parts and are built to last — just be prepared for the cost.

Adjustable grip strengtheners may be customized for different hands and tension levels. Most offer plenty of range, especially at beginner-friendly resistance levels.

If you’re just starting, or you’re not sure that you’ll want to invest in multiple devices, an adjustable strengthener is your best bet. The Luxon and Kootek devices are both adjustable.

Resistance Level

A strengthener that you can’t pull is useless, but one that’s too easy won’t help you progress. For many beginners, a light-to-medium tension will probably be within reach.

Still, you won’t truly know until you get your hands on one and try. Return for a different tension if necessary. If in doubt, you can always just buy an adjustable device.

How We Tested

This was a simple test. There’s only one thing to do with grip strengtheners — squeeze. For the testing period, I used all five grip trainers to consistently train my own grip.

To double-check my impressions, I handed the devices over to a few friends with hand shapes of varying sizes. They all put in brief workouts with each device to see how ergonomics and efficiency held up across different hand sizes and shapes.

Devices were then scored in three basic categories. Efficiency and usability were the primary score categories, with a modifier for adjustability.

Efficiency

How effectively does the device tax my grip? How often and how quickly do I achieve a quality workout?

Usability

How intuitive is the device to use? How ergonomic is the design? How comfortable am I during workouts?

Adjustability

How much can I control the tension of the device? How much can the device grow with me through my training?

The post 5 Best Grip Strengtheners appeared first on 99Boulders.

The prices are high, there are lots of different options, and you might be worried about what size to get. I know how you feel — you don’t want to mess it up and get the wrong shoe.

For people like you, we’ve put together this guide to the best climbing shoes available today. It includes top picks for both men and women in a variety of different climbing shoe categories. There are also links to other articles we’ve written in case you want to learn more about the best options in a particular category.

Best Sport Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Genius

A top sport climbing shoe needs to be exceptional at edging and climbing on the steepest terrain. Due to the variety of sport routes you will likely climb, it should also be, at its core, an incredibly solid climbing shoe in every aspect.

The La Sportiva Genius meets these criteria perfectly. The Genius is one of the best climbing shoes for sport climbing and bouldering, but when it comes to sport climbing specifically, we think it stands out above the competition. It can climb well on virtually any surface or angle and stick to some of the tiniest footholds.

For these reasons we picked it as the best sport climbing shoe available today. It is pricey, though, which may well be its only con.

Women’s Pick: La Sportiva Miura Women’s

There is no women’s version of the Genius yet, so for climbers looking for a top women’s sport climbing shoe we recommend the La Sportiva Miura Women’s.

Full review: The Best Sport Climbing Shoes

Best Bouldering Shoe: La Sportiva Solution

High-level bouldering places certain demands on your feet. Shoes designed for this style of climbing should have downturned soles which let you use your feet like talons to hook onto holds on overhung boulders. They also need to be able to edge, toe hook, and heel hook well.

Enter the solution to these problems… the aptly named La Sportiva Solution.

The Solution is likely one of the most common climbing shoes at your local bouldering gym. It is at mine. It’s not just for gym rats, though. Top boulderers such as Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, and Nalle Hukkataival all wear the Solution and consistently climb V14 and V15 boulder problems in it.

They wear the shoe because everything about it, from its velcro strap to toe-hooking ability, is designed for high-level bouldering.

Women’s version: La Sportiva Solution Women’s

Full review: The Best Bouldering Shoes

Best Beginner Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Finale

We rounded up 7 of the best beginner climbing shoes on the market and put them to the test to find the top option for new climbers.

The answer?

The all-around versatility of the La Sportiva Finale (or the women’s version, the La Sportiva Finale Women’s) is hard to beat.

The Finale was the most traditional climbing shoe in our beginner shoe test: unlined leather with a simple lace closure system.

But don’t let its simplicity fool you. The Finale impressed with its combination of comfort, performance, and versatility.

Beginner climbing shoes don’t need to be able to climb the hardest routes in the world. As a beginner, it’s best to go with a shoe that is cheap, comfortable, and reliable. A great beginner climbing shoe is one that won’t cost you too much and will help you find your feet in the sport of climbing.

The Finale is all of those things. It is one of the cheaper climbing shoes on the market. It will last you a good while (my pair is still in good condition after over one year of intense use) and it won’t hurt your feet to wear like some high-level climbing shoes will.

Women’s version: La Sportiva Finale Women’s

Full review: The Best Beginner Climbing Shoes

Best Climbing Shoe for Wide Feet: Evolv Shaman

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Some of the most popular climbing shoes brands, such as La Sportiva, don’t fit well on people with wider feet.

Due to this, climbers with wide feet may think they have no choice but to cram their foot into a narrow shoe and just deal with it. This is not the case at all — some climbing shoes are in fact designed to fit wide-footed climbers.

The Evolv Shaman is a top climbing shoe that fits well on people with normal-width to wide feet. It was designed by Chris Sharma and now top climbers such as Kai Lightner climb some of their hardest stuff in it.

The Shaman is aggressive but, in spite of this, still surprisingly comfortable. It edges and hooks well and is at home on steep terrain.

Women’s version: Evolv Shaman LV

Full review: The Best Climbing Shoes for Wide Feet

Best Intermediate Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Miura

Intermediate climbers can’t go wrong by picking shoes that are slightly aggressive, medium- to high-performing, and decently comfortable. This combination of features will help you climb harder grades while letting your feet adjust to the fit of high-performance climbing shoes.

The Miura is that combination packed into a classic climbing shoe. The Miura has been around for over a decade, a testament to its popularity and performance. It edges and hooks well, especially compared to beginner climbing shoes. Also, it will stretch and flatten out slightly over the break-in period and become comfortable for its aggressive nature.

Though we have recommended the Miura here to intermediate climbers, the Miura can hold its own alongside the best climbing shoes. Top climbers such as Adam Ondra and Alex Honnold will climb in the Miura because it is such a solid shoe. Don’t think going with the Miura will hold you back in any way.

Women’s version: La Sportiva Miura Women’s

Full review: The Best Intermediate Climbing Shoes

Best Trad Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva TC Pro

Trad climbing arguably places the toughest demands on a climbing shoe. Top trad shoes let your toes lie flat so you can jam your feet into thin cracks; have semi-sturdy rubber that can be torqued inside cracks but still protect your feet; and preferably have laces since velcro straps can come undone or be painfully smushed against your feet.

The climbing shoe that best incorporates all of the above is the La Sportiva TC Pro. The shoe is also amazing at edging and climbing challenging vertical faces. Perhaps the greatest testament to the TC Pro’s ability is the fact that Tommy Caldwell, the shoe’s designer and namesake, climbed the Dawn Wall in it earlier this year. Read our full review here.

Women’s Pick: La Sportiva Miura Women’s

There is no women’s version of the TC Pro, but the La Sportiva Miura Women’s meets the criteria for being good trad climbing shoes.

Full review: The Best Trad Climbing Shoes

Best All-Around Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Katana Lace

If you’re looking for a shoe which can do all different types of climbing well, we have an option for you, too: the La Sportiva Katana Lace.

The Katana Lace edges, hooks, and smears well which makes it well-suited for slab and vertical face climbing. It has laces and semi-pliable rubber which help when trad climbing. Finally, it has an asymmetrical toe box and P3 Midsole (a technology that keeps a climbing shoe’s sole downturned) which are helpful for bouldering and overhung face climbing.

The Katana Lace is by no means the only shoe which can perform well in all climbing scenarios, but it is our pick for the one that does it all best.

Women’s Pick: La Sportiva Miura Women’s

Unfortunately, there is no women’s version of the Katana Lace. There is a women’s version of the La Sportiva Katana, however despite the similar names the shoes themselves aren’t very similar. Once again, we recommend the Miura Women’s instead.

Full review: The Best All-Around Climbing Shoes

The post The Best Climbing Shoes appeared first on 99Boulders.

We put 7 of the best climbing pants on the market through their paces. It came down to a photo finish, but the prAna Stretch Zion Pant (and the women’s version, the prAna Halle Pant) managed to stay our top pick for the fourth year in a row.

Climbing puts unique demands on clothing, especially once real rock gets involved. Pants need to be mobile, breathable, well-designed, and ideally versatile.

The growing demand has spun climbing pants into a genre of their own, related to (but distinct from) more general hiking and travel pants.

To be frank, you can’t go wrong with most of the pants in this test. With the exception of one, I’d be happy adding any of these pants into my wardrobe.

Choosing the right pair comes down to where you’ll be climbing and what your needs are. For details and our full reviews, read on.

Top Pick: prAna Stretch Zion Pant

Simply put, the time-tested prAna Stretch Zions remain the best pick for the most climbers.

They’re not perfect, but they tick almost every box for a general climbing pant.

The biggest of those boxes is mobility. The Zions move exceptionally well, offering plenty of stretch without any restriction or binding.

They don’t ride up or bunch, either, which is a blessing not all these pants share.

The next best thing about the Stretch Zions is the features. This is very clearly a pant designed for climbing.

A spacious thigh pocket stays out of the way of leg loops, and well-placed cuff snaps add ventilation and free the ankles.

The Zions include an integrated belt, which sits flush and doesn’t abrade under a climbing harness.

Personally, I like having built-in adjustability — my waist changes size through the day, and I enjoy not having to worry about a separate belt. The Zion’s belt shows a touch of slippage over time, but with a good fit it’s fine.

Although the Stretch Zions excel on the wall, they work well around town as well. I wore them biking, hiking, stretching, and walking, and they never felt out of place. They’re not the most fashionable pants in this test, but they’re far from the most egregious.

The Zion’s biggest weaknesses are minor ones: breathability and weather-proofing.

I found the pants to be breathable enough for 90% of situations, but in hot temperatures or under high exertion, they don’t vent as well as lighter fabrics like the Ferrosi. Likewise, the weather-proofing is adequate but not exceptional.

Still, for the majority of days, the Stretch Zions are the right pant for the job. If you’re only buying a single pair of climbing pants, these are the ones to get.

Women’s version: prAna Halle Pant

Long-Term Testing Notes

99Boulders owner and editor Alex Beale has owned his personal pair of Stretch Zions for over three years. He’s put them through the ringer, from hiking in Ecuador to sport climbing at the Red River Gorge.

They’re incredibly durable, he says, and notes that his pair still shows virtually no wear and tear despite being scraped against rock and plastic countless times.

He’s a big fan of the integrated belt and cuff snaps, the latter of which he uses to keep his pant legs rolled up while climbing. The zip thigh pocket is the perfect size for carrying a phone up a route to take some photos at the top.

Alex recommends the Zions to anyone looking for a versatile climbing and outdoors pant. They’re pricey but he thinks they’re worth it.

Product Specs & Features

• Material: 97% nylon, 3% spandex
• Pockets: 2 hip, 2 rear, 1 zip thigh
• Built-in adjustable belt
• Roll-up leg snaps

Full review: prAna Stretch Zion Pant

Best Outdoor Climbing Pants: Outdoor Research Ferrosi Pant

The Ferrosi pants were another favorite in this test, beaten only narrowly in the final reckoning.

The Ferrosi Jacket is a well-respected softshell in its own right, but we think the pants deserve their own acclaim.

The best part about the Ferrosis is their feel. I hardly noticed these pants while I was wearing them. The fabric is thin and light, with impeccable mobility and the best breathability in the test.

I found these pants nearly as comfortable as a cozy pair of sweatpants, while remaining as light and mobile as a pair of gym shorts.

In a remarkable paradox, the Ferrosis are as protective as they are airy.

Bombproof and durable, the fabric is light but impressively weatherproof. I wore these pants out for a chilly day of sport climbing and found them surprisingly warm.

As an additional bonus, price-wise the Ferrosi pants are on the cheaper end of the spectrum. The difference isn’t huge, but especially if you can find them on sale, the Ferrosis offer excellent value.

The sole downside to the Ferrosis is the lack of extra features. The leg cuffs have a cinch system, but it’s not as effective as other pants. The waist is non-adjustable and may require a separate belt.

The design is simple, without any unnecessary frills or features. On the plus side, the thigh pocket is functional and nicely sized.

Given their technical focus, the Ferrosis aren’t the most fashionable pant. They’re not bad looking, but it’s clear that they’re aimed at the outdoors. We doubt most climbers will mind.

For those reasons, the Stretch Zions pulled just ahead in final all-around scoring. Especially as an outdoor pant, however, I’m convinced that the Ferrosis are hard to beat. They’re worth a look for missions and climbers of all types.

Women’s version: Outdoor Research Women’s Ferrosi Pant

Product Specs & Features

• Material: 86% nylon, 14% spandex
• Pockets: 2 hip, 2 zip rear, 1 zip thigh
• Drawcord cuff closures

Most Fashionable: prAna Axiom Jean

The Axiom jeans faced some unexpected competition for the title of most fashionable climbing pant, chiefly from the crisp Mountain Hardwear AP Pant.

But in the end, fitted and stretchy jeans offer an easy style that’s hard to match.

Where the Axioms excel is mobility. I didn’t mind climbing in these pants any more than the nylon and cotton fabrics, which is impressive for a denim pant.

The diamond-gusseted crotch is freeing, and the legs have just the right amount of stretch. I felt just as confident high-stepping on a boulder problem as I did walking around town.

The other obvious strength is the looks. Sized properly, the Axioms have a straight but fitted cut that sits nicely and looks sharp.

No one I know was able to pick out these jeans from non-climbing jeans, and it’s nice to walk straight from the street to the gym.

That said, the Axioms aren’t as comfortable or versatile as dedicated climbing pants. The legs fit closely (rugby players and power squatters should look elsewhere), and the waist area is more constricting than some models.

Weather-proofing is (predictably) mediocre, and the jeans aren’t quite as comfortable out on the trail. While the Axioms are still impressively durable, the denim abrades more easily than other fabrics.

As a result, I wouldn’t recommend the Axioms as a serious outdoor climbing pant. But if you need pants that can pull double duty at the gym and the pub, the Axioms are perfect.

A minor note: sizing on the Axioms (and other prAna pants) runs large. When in doubt, size down a little.

Product Specs & Features

• Material: 99% organic cotton, 1% spandex
• Pockets: 2 hip, 2 rear

Reviews of the 4 Other Climbing Pants We Tested

Mountain Hardwear AP Pant

These pants deserve an honorable mention in this test. They weren’t quite strong enough to take home any awards, but they were among the most versatile pairs.

What surprised me about the AP pants is the looks. Although the fabric feels durable and technical (weather-proofing and warmth are strong), these pants look nearly like a pair of slacks.

I wouldn’t wear them to a business dinner, but they’re confident and unassuming around town.

Features are also strong. The velcro thigh pocket blends in cleverly with the seams, and having two zipped rear pockets is a nice touch.

One particularly nice detail is the reflective strips inside the calves — when the cuffs are rolled up and snapped into place, the strips face back and out. It’s a nice detail for cyclists and hikers who might be on the move after dark.

The waist belt isn’t adjustable, but a close fit meant that the APs never moved around.

Sadly, the fit is also the AP’s Achilles heel. The stiff fabric meant that the pants rode up more than I would have liked.

Mobility was never restricted, but I found myself having to readjust after lowering off of routes. It’s not a deal breaker, but it’s noticeable over time. And while the fabric looks excellent, it’s a tad less comfortable and breathable than our award winners.

The mobility was enough to keep the AP from winning an award, but it’s an excellent pant. For climbers who want an all-around technical pant that still looks presentable, it may be the best option.

Women’s version: Mountain Hardwear Women’s AP Pant

Product Specs & Features

• Material: 75% cotton, 23% nylon, 2% elastane
• Pockets: 2 hip, 2 zip rear, 1 velcro thigh
• Roll-up leg snaps

Patagonia RPS Rock Pant

The Patagonia RPS are good pants — they’re just not great.

Mobility and breathability are good, but not perfect. The RPS are comfortable, but not as pleasant as other options. The features are practical and well-designed, but they don’t stand out.

As an all-around rock pant, it’s hard to complain about the Patagonias. They get the job done. The fabric is durable and protective, and all the elements are well designed.

My only substantial complaint is the cuff system, which has a cinch but couldn’t keep the cuffs above my ankles or calves when necessary.

But I found it equally hard to really love the RPS pants. In almost every area, another pair of pants was superior.

The Zions are more mobile. The Ferrosis are more comfortable. The Axiom jeans and AP pants are better looking.

And the RPS pants can’t even claim to be a budget option.

As a result, the Patagonias finish in the middle of the road for our test. I certainly wouldn’t blame anyone who bought a pair, and Patagonia’s reputation and repair service make the deal a little sweeter. But the RPS pants would rarely be my first recommendation.

Product Specs & Features

• Material: 52% nylon, 48% polyester
• Pockets: 2 hip, 2 rear, 1 zip thigh
• Built-in adjustable waist
• Drawcord cuff closures

Black Diamond Notion Pant

Another unusual entrant, the BD Notions use a soft cotton construction with a drawstring waist. There are no zip pockets, and the cuffs are simple elastic.

Indoors, the Notions feel at home. The stretch cotton feels nice and moves easily.

I could do yoga in these pants just as easily as climb, and the drawstring made adjustability easy. Breathability is good, and comfort is top notch.

But there the versatility ends. The Notions were the least weatherproof pant in the test, and they seem the least durable to boot. Outside, the lack of a zip pocket is inconvenient.

These seem more like streamlined sweatpants than honed climbing pants. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, and the Notions were among the more comfortable pants in the test.

But they seem best suited to climbing indoors and would only be suitable for milder outdoor missions.

That said, there’s an argument to be made for the Notions as urban do-it-all pants. They’re not bad for cycling, excellent for activities like yoga or stretching, and comfortable cranking out workouts at the bouldering gym. I’m personally not a big fan of the styling, but some of my friends were.

For those whose exercise takes place out of the elements, the Notions may be a worthy addition.

Women’s version: Black Diamond Notion Pant – Women’s

Long-Term Testing Notes

Our initial review posited that these pants are best for indoor climbing, so we put the Notion Pants through a year of long-term testing to see how they hold up outdoors.

We felt most comfortable wearing the Notions in temperatures down to the 50s. Anything colder and we found ourselves reaching for something thicker.

They’re more durable than they seem at first blush. Our pair has yet to scuff or fray despite being used for countless outdoor bouldering sessions, day hikes, and yoga classes. The only lasting mark is a bike grease stain near the cuff from biking in them around town.

When it comes to climbing, we liked them best as indoor or outdoor bouldering pants. They’re comfy, stretchy, and just the right amount of protection.

The Notion Pants are great climbing pants for the climber who wants a pair they can use as more than just climbing pants. They’re so versatile, you’ll quickly find yourself wearing them on your rest days for biking around town or hanging out with friends.

Product Specs & Features

• Material: 98% cotton, 2% elastane
• Pockets: 2 hip, 2 rear
• Drawstring elastic waistband
• Elastic cuffs

Carhartt Washed Duck Dungaree Work Pant

Included as a budget option in this test, the Carhartts were woefully outclassed. From start to finish, the thick work pants failed to match the competition.

The biggest complaint is mobility. The heavy fabric doesn’t stretch at all, and the fit isn’t forgiving enough to allow a full range of motion. Climbing was generally unpleasant, and breathability is poor.

Looks are equally bad. One friend compared these pants to waders, and the likeness isn’t too far off. The Carhartts balloon around the thighs and calves with a cut that does little to flatter the wearer.

There are no fewer than six pockets, but none of them have closures. Comfort isn’t even particularly good.

The Carhartt’s one virtue is durability. Designed as burly work pants, this pair seems indestructible.

That’s reassuring, although I wouldn’t want to climb in the Carhartts long enough to put it to the test.

The one venue where these pants might make sense is off-width climbing. Mobility is less important, and all-out durability is the name of the game. For those climbers who love the wide, Carhartts will hold up well.

But we’d still suggest looking at one of the more versatile options. The Carhartts are the cheapest pants in this test, but they’re still hard to recommend.

Product Specs & Features

• Material: 100% cotton
• Pockets: 2 hip, 2 rear, 2 utility, hammer loop

Summary

Here are the best climbing pants:

• prAna Stretch Zion Pant
• Outdoor Research Ferrosi Pant
• Mountain Hardwear AP Pant
• Patagonia RPS Rock Pant
• Black Diamond Notion Pant
• prAna Axiom Jean
• Carhartt Washed Duck Work Dungaree Pant

How to Choose the Best Climbing Pants for Your Needs

Most climbing pants follow the same basic design: take a mobile and durable pair of pants, then add pockets and even more mobility. Movement is the most important part of a good climbing pant, but comfort and useful features are critical as well.

The major differences in pants come down to a few major details.

Fabric Material

The pants in this test have a wide range of fabric types and blends, and each behaves differently. The two main materials are nylon and cotton.

Nylon is lightweight, breathable, and elastic. It also dries quickly.

Cotton is soft and breathable but generally not as durable.

If breathability is important to you, choose a lighter pant like the Ferrosi or Notion. If functionality is key, check out versatile and protective Stretch Zions or AP pants.

Fabric also changes the fit. Whenever possible, try pants on in person, although many online outlets offer return or size-swap options.

Pockets

All these pants have at least two hip pockets and two in the rear. Some pants use zippers on the rear pockets, which is either a pain or a useful bonus, depending on who you ask.

One important pocket for many climbers is the thigh pocket. On most climbing pants, this pocket adds a closure system and creates a place to stash something like a phone while climbing. It stays out of the way of a climbing harness and keeps valuables safe.

The Zion, Ferrosi, AP, and RPS pants all have dedicated thigh pockets. The Carhartt pants have two thigh-mounted utility pockets, but neither has a closure system.

Features

A couple other features set apart some climbing pants.

A cuff system keeps leg cuffs out of the way when necessary. This can be for ventilation, or just to give the feet and ankles extra room. Some climbers like to be able to see their feet without any flapping fabric in the way.

The Stretch Zion and AP pants both have cuff snaps, while the RPS and Ferrosis have cinch systems. The remaining pants may roll their cuffs up but do not have any closure system.

Finally, consider whether you prefer an adjustable waist. The Stretch Zions and RPS pants have an integrated belt, and the Notion pants have a drawstring. The rest of the pants must work on a precise fit or be teamed with a belt.

How We Tested

To begin, I put all these pants through their paces at the gym. Later, I took them out bouldering and sport climbing in chillier weather to test warmth and weather-proofing.

In between climbing excursions, I used them for as many other activities as I could imagine: hiking, biking, yoga, stretching, or just simple walks around town.

When all was said and done, I rated the pants in three categories (with a smaller modifier for style points):

Movement & Mobility

How well could I move in the pants? Was there any restriction or resistance?

Comfort & Breathability

How comfortable do I feel in the pants? How often do I feel clammy or stiff?

Versatility & Features

In how many different venues can I use the pants? How easy or hard do they make my life?

The post 7 Best Climbing Pants appeared first on 99Boulders.

If you want to boulder outside, you need a crash pad.

Crash pads are arguably the most important piece of outdoor bouldering gear because they serve the most important function — protecting your life.

There are many different crash pads available today that differ greatly in size, style, and price. With all the options, it can be hard to know which crash pad is right for you.

For that reason, I’ve put together this list of the best crash pads for bouldering. Whether you’re looking to take your first trip outside or replace an old pad, you will find an option that suits your situation.

Top Pick: Mad Rock R3

With its innovative baffle design, the Mad Rock R3 makes it possible to cover up some of the sketchiest outside landings. Its size and thickness make it highly versatile and perfect for falls from short to mid-height problems.

The baffles in the pad mean that, rather than folding closed like a taco, it can actually roll up more like a burrito. All you need to do then is attach the included flap to the bottom opening and the R3 then becomes a tube on your back into which you can stuff all your gear. The baffles also make it one of the best crash pads for sleeping since it will conform to your body better than typical taco or hinge pads.

Possibly the best aspect of this pad is the price. The Mad Rock R3 covers nearly as much surface area as some pads worth fifty dollars more. For its size, quality, and innovative features this crash pad is truly one of the best available.

One minor downside is that the pad is heavy, but you can cut down on weight by using it as your only pack and not carrying a backpack against your chest.

Lastly, the R3 is the most eco-friendly crash pad as its baffles are filled with recycled foam. Don’t think recycled means low-quality, though. This pad will last you years.

Best Value: Mad Rock Mad Pad

For those looking for the best budget crash pad, this one is for you.

Everything about the Mad Pad is solid. It measures three feet by four feet for a respectable amount of surface coverage. The foam is five inches thick (again, the thickest you’ll usually find of any pad) and quite sturdy.

The Mad Pad is best for problems of virtually any height. The foam is stiff enough to protect you from high falls so you can focus more of your attention on sticking the move than worrying about landing safely.

One cool feature on the Mad Pad is that it can turn into a chair for when you’re hanging out at the boulder field or campground. The pad also has some Velcro flaps along its sides that you can use to attach two or more Mad Pads together to create a flat, unbroken landing zone.

If the Mad Pad doesn’t appeal to you, a close runner-up to it is the Metolius Session II, which is similarly priced.

Best Beginner Crash Pad: Black Diamond Impact

Let me start by saying that the phrase “beginner crash pad” is a bit of an oxymoron. Crash pads aren’t designed for a particular skill level. Rather, they are designed to tailor to specific uses and styles of outdoor bouldering.

It just so happens that many beginner boulderers tend to climb outdoor boulders of similar heights and styles (shorter, fewer dynamic movements, safer landing zones, etc.).

With that in mind, we picked the Black Diamond Impact as the best beginner crash pad because it is perfectly suited to the situations that a beginner to intermediate boulderer will usually find themselves in when outdoors.

The pad is a good size, slightly larger than other typical entry-level pads such as the Metolius Session and Mad Rock Mad Pad. It also has four-inch thick foam which is a good amount for low- to medium-height boulder problems.

The foam is semi-stiff which makes it comfortable enough to fall or jump on repeatedly from low heights and sturdy enough to protect you from higher bailouts.

The strap and hinge system is elegant and sturdy. The size is such that it will fit in virtually any car trunk. It is also capable of making a nice crag seat or bed if need be.

Full review: Black Diamond Impact

Honorable Mention: Organic Full Pad

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A post shared by Grasshopper_distribution (@boulder_grasshopper) on Apr 2, 2019 at 3:12am PDT

You don’t have to climb for very long before you run into someone with a piece of Organic gear. This once-small bouldering gear company has become well-known in the climbing community for its high-quality and long-lasting products.

Their pads are sturdy, functional, and well-designed. The Organic Full Pad is a standard size (3′ x 4′) and thickness (4″) and comes with some nice features for storing gear inside when folded shut.

One cool aspect of Organic products is that you can pick the colors you want them to use for the outer fabric. This makes your products feel like they are uniquely your own.

Organic products are a little pricier than some other brands, but they last you a long time and many climbers I know say they’d gladly pay the premium any day for the quality and customer service they receive from Organic.

Organic also sells a smaller Simple Pad and a larger Big Pad, along with other climbing gear and accessories.

Best Large Crash Pad: Black Diamond Mondo

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A post shared by Nalle Hukkataival (@nalle_hukkataival) on Oct 12, 2018 at 7:34am PDT

For those of you who need the utmost protection when bouldering outside, the Black Diamond Mondo is here for you.

The Mondo is not just large, it’s huge. It measures 44 inches wide by 65 inches long for a total 2,860 square inches of coverage. The foam inside it is five inches thick, the thickest you’ll usually see on the market.

The Mondo is great for those boulderers who will be climbing tall boulders, or those who already have a regular-sized crash pad but find it too small or soft for their purposes. As you can see in the photo above, Nalle Hukkataival — one of the best boulderers in the world — uses the Mondo when attempting highball boulders.

This pad transitions perfectly to shorter boulders as well. It isn’t the easiest to carry around since it does weigh twenty pounds but, when you do take it outside, it will protect you for every type of problem you get on.

A large pad isn’t for everyone, but if you are looking for one the Mondo is the best large crash pad available. It is expensive, though, so one of the few cons is its price.

If the Mondo is too pricey for you, take a look at the Mad Rock Triple Mad Pad. It is slightly larger than the Mondo and retails for a fair amount less.

How to Choose the Best Crash Pad for You

Preferred Closure Style

Crash pads can have one of a few different closure styles: taco (one solid piece of foam you fold in half), hinge (two pieces of foam that are stitched together and fold nicely in the middle), and baffle (separate tubes filled with foam that roll closed like a burrito).

There is no inherently best closure style, it just depends on what you prefer. Four of the above pads have hinge closures while one, the Mad Rock R3, has a baffle closure (the only one on the market so far).

Appropriate Thickness & Stiffness of Foam

Different crash pads are suited for different styles of boulder problems. Some are designed for highball boulder problems while others are meant for shorter problems. Accordingly, foam stiffness and thickness vary by pad.

If you’re going to be climbing tall boulder problems than look for a pad with thicker and stiffer foam that can protect you from high falls. If you don’t climb lots of tall boulder problems than you might want to look at a pad with thinner, softer foam that will be more comfortable to fall on and not as heavy to carry around.

Quality & Durability

You don’t want to buy a crappy crash pad. Your pad can literally save your life, so, above all else, your crash pad needs to be well-made and long-lasting. You don’t want something that will leave you at risk of injury, and you don’t want something that will break down quickly.

The above pads are all incredibly solid options and you can’t go wrong with any of them. Where you could go wrong is in buying a pad you know nothing about just because it’s cheap or convenient. Make the investment to get a quality crash pad. When it comes to your life, better safe than sorry.

The post 5 Best Bouldering Crash Pads appeared first on 99Boulders.