This is my hands-on review of the Anker 313 Power Bank (formerly known as the Anker PowerCore Slim 10K). I tested it alongside 4 of the best lightweight battery packs over the course of 2 weeks.

After using it on my hiking trips, performing a capacity test, and comparing its specs and features to other comparable battery packs, I think the Anker 313 is a decent battery pack at a great price. It performs the simple job of charging up your phone and other portable electronics while on the trail and at camp. It can only charge one device at a time through its single USB-A port, though, and there are lighter options if you’re an ultralight backpacker.

Keep reading for my full Anker 313 Power Bank review, as well as my thoughts on how it compares to the other best portable battery packs for camping and backpacking.

Anker 313 Power Bank Review

First Impressions

Upon opening up the box, I was impressed with the Anker 313’s slim and small size. It’s approximately the same size and shape as a phone without a case, making it very portable and easy to carry around. It’ll fit in most pockets and bags without issue.

It’s pretty lightweight for a 10,000mAh battery pack. Additionally, the battery pack comes with a micro USB cable to charge it and a mesh carrying case for storage.

The pack has a button which provides an indication of how much battery life is left. With a press, you can quickly get a sense of how much battery is left.

Battery Capacity Test

I tested the usable capacity of the Anker 313 and got a result of 34.89 watt hours (Wh), which works out to 9,430mAh at 3.7V or 6,798mAh at 5V. That’s slightly less than the listed capacity of 37Wh (10,000mAh at 3.7V or 7,400mAh at 5V).

However, this amount is still significant and can charge most phones around 2 times. Additionally, this amount of battery capacity is also sufficient for charging other portable electronics — such as tablets, GoPros, and other cameras.

It’s important to note that battery capacity can vary depending on a variety of factors such as usage patterns, temperature, and age. In my test, I used a USB load tester with a steady 1A output to measure capacity. In practice, you’ll probably be charging your devices at a faster rate than 1A (most likely 2A or more), so you’ll probably get a little less usable capacity than I did.

Weight

According to the listed weight, the Anker 313 weighs 7.5 ounces. However, when I measured it using my digital scale, the weight came out to be 8.4 ounces. Despite the difference, the battery pack still provides a solid ratio of 4.15 watt hours per ounce (34.89Wh ÷ 8.4 oz).

The battery pack’s weight may seem insignificant, but for some hikers, every ounce counts. The Anker 313 is lightweight, but a battery pack with a higher ratio of watt hours to ounces — such as the premium Nitecore NB10000 — is a better option for ultralight backpackers.

Charging Output

The Anker 313 battery pack has only one output port for charging, and it’s a USB-A port. Compared to the newer USB-C ports that are becoming increasingly common, the USB-A port is a bit outdated.

The power bank does have a USB-C port, but it is only meant for input (i.e. charging the pack itself). Most new battery packs have a USB-C port for output, so this is one area where the Anker 313 lags a bit.

Having only one output port means you can only charge one device at a time. Additionally, having USB-C output ports is preferable since it is a newer technology that charges devices more quickly. While the Anker 313 battery pack falls short in these areas, it still provides a solid charging option for those who do not require multiple ports or the latest charging technology. It will still help you keep your phone and other electronics charged while backpacking.

Charging Input

The Anker 313 has two input ports: a micro USB port and a USB-C port. While having two input ports may seem useful at first glance — could you use both to charge the battery pack super quickly?? — the two inputs ports cannot be used at the same time.

The micro USB port is outdated and a cheaper and slower charging port. To use the USB-C port, you will need to buy your own USB-C cable. In my opinion, it would have been better if the battery pack had only one input port, preferably a USB-C port, as it provides faster charging capabilities.

What I Like

• It’s a good value. For its size and capacity, the Anker 313 is an affordable price from a reputable brand.
• It can charge at up to 12 watts. That’s decently fast for a standard USB-A port.
• The capacity I measured is inline with the listed capacity. When I performed a battery capacity test, I measured a total of 34.89Wh. That’s very close to this pack’s listed 37Wh capacity.

What I Don’t Like

• It has only one output port. Some battery packs let you charge 2 or more devices at a time. With the Anker 313, you can only charge one.
• The included charging cable is a micro USB cable. Micro USB doesn’t charge as fast as newer technologies, such as USB-C.
• It’s a bit heavy compared to other battery packs. This gripe is for ultralight backpackers: In terms of watt hours per ounce, this battery pack lags behind the competition a bit.

Who This Battery Pack Is for

• You want a simple and affordable battery pack. It’s lightweight and portable and it’ll charge your phone just fine. If that’s all you need, this charger is a great value.
• You don’t care about the weight of your power bank. Most people don’t, making this a great option for most people.

Who This Battery Pack Isn’t for

• You want to charge multiple devices at once. The Anker 313 can only charge one device at a time.
• You want to fully charge lots of devices. If you have 3 or more devices you need to charge fully, I’d recommend looking at larger battery packs, such as 20,000mAh sizes.
• You’re an ultralight hiker. Ultralight backpackers should look towards battery packs with better watt hours-per-ounce ratios, such as the Nitecore NB10000.

Best Anker 313 Power Bank Alternatives

• Anker 325 Power Bank. If you like Anker and their value-oriented portable chargers but need more than a 10,000mAh capacity, check out the Anker 325, a 20,000mAh pack. It has double the battery capacity and an extra output port.
• Nitecore NB10000 Power Bank. This is the best lightweight power bank for backpacking I’ve used. If you’re an ultralight backpacker, this is the charger I’d recommend.

The Bottom Line

Overall, I think the Anker 313 offers good bang for your buck. It’s an affordable and portable 10,000mAh battery pack that does the simple job of charging your devices on the go. You don’t get the fastest charging speeds or the latest USB-C input ports, though, and you can only charge one device at a time.

A few years back, Anker’s power banks used to be the go-to for ultralight backpackers. However, now they’re just mediocre for that use case and are designed more for the general consumer who just needs to charge their devices at a park or concert. Of course, if weight doesn’t matter that much to you then it’s also a good option for those scenarios as well as travel, hikes, and backpacking trips.

A small ask: If you found my Anker 313 Power Bank review helpful and are planning on getting one, please consider purchasing through one of my affiliate links. I’ll get a small commission (at no extra cost to you) which will help fund more outdoor gear reviews like this one. Thank you!

The post Anker 313 Power Bank Review appeared first on 99Boulders.

Here’s a simple list of ways to store camping chairs that keeps them clean and protects them from the elements.

Don’t overthink this! Storing camp chairs isn’t rocket science. My advice is to just pick one of these ways and be done with it.

1. Use a Camping Chair Wall Storage Rack

Storing your camping chairs on the wall using this wall storage rack will save floor space and keep them easily accessible. My advice: hang it up in your garage or shed. This one can hold up to 4 large camping chairs, and looks to be quite easy to install.

2. Store Camping Chairs in Storage Bins

This is personally how I store my camping chairs — I just throw them in my camping gear box!

I recommend labeling your storage bins or keeping a simple spreadsheet to help you know what’s in them. Trust me — from years of running an outdoor gear blog I’ve accumulated SO. MUCH. GEAR. My spreadsheet that tells me which gear is in which storage bin has been a lifesaver.

3. Put Them in an Outdoor Storage Container

Invest in an outdoor storage container specifically designed for camping gear, such as this small “deck box.” One of these containers can keep your camping chairs (mostly) protected from the elements. Don’t forget to get a good padlock for extra security!

4. Keep Camp Chairs in Your Garage

Utilize a spare corner, hanger, or storage shelf in your garage to store your camping chairs. No fancy storage bin needed, just leave it there until you need it!

If you want to protect it a bit, you can cover it with a tarp or other protective cover.

5. Hang Lightweight Camping & Backpacking Chairs on the Wall with Command Hooks

Add one more thing to the endless list of Command Hook uses — hanging camping chairs. Command Hooks are a good option if you don’t want to damage your wall.

Pay attention to the maximum weight of the size you decide to go with. Some options can hold a max of 5 pounds which is adequate for small, lightweight camping and backpacking chairs (like the green REI Flexlite Chair in my pictures), but probably not burly enough for larger camping and tailgating chairs.

6. Slide Camping Chairs Under Your Bed

If you’re tight on storage space (like I am living in a 700-square-foot house), you can just slide your camping chairs under your bed.

7. Compress Them in a Vacuum Storage Bag

Vacuum storage bags are a great way to store camping chairs when you’re short on space. These bags will compress the chairs to a fraction of their original size, allowing you to store them in a much smaller space.

Plus, you can throw in other bulky pieces of camping gear like blankets. You might be tempted to also throw in things like jackets and sleeping bags, but vacuum storing sleeping bags and jackets will compress their insulation and reduce there ability to retain warmth. For that reason, I’d avoid it for those pieces of gear.

8. Put Them in Your Backyard Storage Shed

Your backyard shed is a perfect place to keep camping chairs when they’re not needed. Heck, putting them there might even cause you to use them more if they’re closer to your backyard campfire. The shed will protect them from the elements, and putting them there will keep them from cluttering up your house or garage.

When I went to my shed, I even found a little screw to even hang my chair from. Talk about nifty.

9. Put Them in a Storage Closet

I hate to be Captain Obvious here, but there’s nothing wrong with throwing your camping chairs in a linen closet! This will keep them out of the way and protected from dust and other debris. And this means they’re indoors, which will protect them more from humidity.

10. Toss Them in Your Trunk

Lastly, why not throw your camping chair(s) in your car trunk? That way you always have them when you go to the park, to a tailgate, or on an impromptu camping trip!

5 Tips for Storing Camping Chairs

1. Clean your camping chairs before putting them in long-term storage.
2. Make sure your chairs are completely dry before storing them.
3. If using a bin, label it! Like I said, if you want to get really nerdy, you can use a spreadsheet to keep track of what’s in which box. That’s what I do to manage all the gear I buy and test for this blog.
4. When possible, store them in a dry, cool, and well-ventilated area.
5. If you’re storing your camp chairs in a storage bin, you can buy silica gel packets to absorb moisture.

How to Clean Camping Chairs Before Putting Them in Storage

When storing camping chairs long-term, one important step that many people overlook is cleaning the chairs before putting them away. Not only will this help to keep your chairs in good condition, but it will also make sure that they’re clean and ready to use the next time you go camping. And who doesn’t like a clean chair to rest their bum at camp!

Personally, I like to start by giving my camping chairs a good once-over with a vacuum cleaner to remove any loose dirt or debris. Then, if I’m feeling up for it, I mix up a mild solution of dish soap and water and use a damp cloth to wipe down all surfaces of the chairs, including the seats, arms, and legs. For tougher stains or dirt, I use an old toothbrush (that I just keep in my camping gear bin) to scrub gently in order to get into all the nooks and crannies.

It’s also a good idea to pay attention to any metal parts of the chairs, such as the frame or any hinges. These areas can often get rusty or dirty, so I like to use a toothbrush to clean them and then dry them thoroughly to prevent rust.

Once I finish cleaning, I let the chairs air dry completely before storing them away. Just keep them assembled in your living room or garage for a few hours and that should do the trick. This is especially important if you’re storing the chairs in a damp or humid area, as moisture can cause mildew or mold to form.

It can be a little tedious, but cleaning camping chairs before storing them helps them last longer. It also helps the metal parts from getting all rusted and gummed up. It may take a bit of extra time and effort, but it’s well worth it when you’re ready to use them on your next camping trip.

Camping Chair Storage FAQ

How do you store folding camp chairs in the garage?

Storing folding camp chairs in the garage is easy! I give my chairs a quick clean and then store them in a labeled bin or on a spare storage shelf. I keep them in a dry and well ventilated area of the garage to ensure they stay in good condition for my next camping trip.

How do you hang camping chairs on a wall?

You can hang camping chairs on a wall using Command Hooks or wall hangers designed specifically for that purpose.

The post How to Store Camping Chairs: 10 Ideas appeared first on 99Boulders.

Since the turn of the millennium, climbing has undergone a growth spurt. In the United States, the number of climbing gyms has quadrupled since 2000. The pandemic brought a variety of challenges for climbers and climbing gyms, but the industry is rebounding strongly.

Growth is exciting, but it brings its own set of difficulties. In light of climbing’s continued popularity, this article is an effort to take an objective look at the trends and patterns of the industry. Rock climbing statistics are still hard to come by, but we’ve collected many of the most important stats on things like adcidents, injures, deaths, demographics, and industry size.

Rock Climbing Demographics

The best data on climbing demographics in the United States comes from the American Alpine Club’s 2019 State of Climbing Report. Of 7.7 million participants, more than 80% are white. Among non-AAC members, the report found that AAPI climbers made up 7%, Hispanic climbers 5%, and Black and Native American climbers just 1% each. Male-identified climbers made up 72% of AAC members and 58% of non-members.

A 2021 survey of Canadian climbers found similar homogeneity. According to the report, “women and gender minorities reported significantly more constraints to participation than men,” and “racialized people reported significantly more constraints to participation than white people.”

All of which is to say: the majority of climbers are still white men. A variety of wonderful organizations are working to increase access for minorities and underrepresented populations. I highly recommend checking out the resources listed by the American Alpine Club as well as the projects at Diversify Outdoors.

By age, climbing is a relatively young sport. According to the AAC report, 81% of non-member climbers are between 19-40, and 54% are between 19-30.

Rock Climbing Industry Statistics

The pandemic dealt a hefty blow to climbing gyms around the world, but it hasn’t stopped the growth of the sport.

According to the Climbing Business Journal’s yearly trends report, 53 new climbing gyms opened in 2021, bringing the total to 591 gyms in the United States. Despite the pandemic, only 8 gyms closed in 2021, resulting in the highest-ever yearly net increase in gyms (45).

California saw the most gym openings (10), followed by Washington (6) and Colorado (4). Most of the gyms opened in large metropolitan areas.

63% of those new gyms were bouldering gyms. That’s the largest proportion of new bouldering gyms since data collection began. Bouldering gyms require fewer resources to build and run, which may have made them a more viable model during the pandemic. That didn’t stop larger gyms from opening as well, including Oakland’s absolutely massive Pacific Pipe.

Climbing’s economic impact has grown large, too. According to the AAC State of Climbing Report, climbing contributed nearly $12.5 billion to the United States economy in 2017. Over the 36-month study period, climber spending on gear rose by 14.4% to a total of almost $170 million in 2018. Although revenue levels haven’t quite returned to their pre-pandemic high, gyms have shown a strong rebound since 2020.

Rock Climbing Accidents, Injuries, & Deaths

Rock climbing has a reputation for being an extreme sport, and there’s no doubt that some climbers take extreme risks. In general, however, the statistics tell a different story.

A 2012 review found that climbing had lower injury incidence and severity than many mainstream sports, including basketball and soccer. Indoor climbing is particularly safe, but outdoor bouldering and sport climbing are also relatively low-risk. Injury rates and severity are highest in alpine and ice climbing, where external hazards are more difficult to avoid.

A 2020 analysis of the previous 30 years of North American accident reports reached similar conclusions. Since 2010, trad climbers reported twice as many accidents as sport climbers or topropers (bouldering accidents were not included). Descent incidents made up about a third of the reported accidents, and rappel errors were among the leading causes of fatal accidents (second only to unroped climbing).

Unsurprisingly, not wearing a helmet correlates with injury severity and fatality. Also of interest: a 1988 study found that experienced climbers were more likely to get injured. Exact numbers on fatalities are hard to come by, but most estimates place yearly deaths at around 20-50 in North America.

The takeaways are clear, and none are revolutionary. Wear a helmet, double-check your rappels and anchors, tie back-up knots, and most importantly: Don’t get complacent. Take extra care in alpine environments that may carry additional risk.

If you’re doing all those things…don’t fret too much. By the numbers, climbing is a relatively safe sport, and that’s especially true of indoor climbing.

Rock Climbing Popularity by Discipline

The best data on climbing participation comes from the Outdoor Industry Association’s recent Outdoor Participation Trends Report.

Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering have all seen steady increases in participation every year since data collection began in 2017. Indoor climbing saw the strongest growth, rising by 2.7% from 2020 to 2021. Bouldering and sport climbing experienced more modest growth of about 0.5%. Indoor climbing remains substantially more popular than outdoor disciplines, with more than twice the total number of participants.

Participation in trad and alpine climbing declined by 3.3% from 2020 to 2021. According to the OIA, those disciplines are now at their lowest total participation since 2013. That’s a bit of a surprise, given the steady rise of indoor climbing, but it may show that indoor climbers are more likely to make the jump to sport climbing and bouldering than they are to pick up a trad rack. The cost of trad gear is another likely deterrent.

Total participation has risen by about 11.7% since 2017. As gyms rebound after the pandemic, there’s no reason to expect that growth to slow, especially among indoor climbers.

So what’s the takeaway?

Climbing certainly isn’t going anywhere, and the outlook for climbing gyms remains bright. Climbing competitions continue to gain popularity and legitimacy, and the 2020 Olympics provided a great deal of global exposure in spite of the pandemic.

Concerns over outdoor impact remain pressing. The numbers show that sport and bouldering areas are the most susceptible to overcrowding, and anyone who’s been to Rumney on a weekend will surely agree. In the future, it’s possible that we’ll see more restrictions like limiting chalk use.

Trad and alpine climbing areas may not see the same traffic — the elevated risk and significant additional costs seem to deter many indoor climbers.

Although climbing as a whole is growing, it remains relatively homogenous demographically. Every climber can help to make the sport a welcoming space for all participants.

In sum: stay optimistic, stay aware, stay welcoming, and stay safe. Climb on!

The post Rock Climbing Statistics: Accidents, Injuries, Deaths & Demographics appeared first on 99Boulders.

Many of you will have probably seen those scary looking hangboards in the corner of your local climbing gym. All those strange holes and edges can be very intimidating. Especially if you’re watching someone bust out some one-finger pull-ups, single-finger air planks, or some other outrageous exercise.

Do not fear, hangboards are just as useful for us mortals as they are for the strongest of climbers. And many of the exercises are not as impossible as you may think.

To help you harness the power of this training tool, I’m going to walk you through the essentials of hangboarding and then give you a simple 8-week beginner-friendly hangboard training program.

Why Use a Hangboard?

Many people get by fine without any hangboard training, but there are definitely a few areas in climbing that will benefit from the exercise.

Has finger strength always been your downfall in climbing?

Does overhangs and small holds terrify you?

Have you been stuck at a plateau since before you can remember?

In all of the strength metrics measured by climbing coaches, the only one which has a strong correlation with the ability to boulder 8A (V11) is whether or not the climber can hang an 18mm edge with 1 arm.

There is no question that hangboarding is one of the best ways to increase grip strength and upper body power. If you aren’t a genetic triumph built for climbing, it is very likely necessary to reach your full climbing potential.

The Essentials: 6 Tips for Preventing Hangboarding Injuries

Hangboarding done wrong can be a first-class ticket to injury town — a lonely place where you can never try hard. Here are 6 tips to help you prevent hangboarding injuries.

1. Do Not Full Crimp

There are 3 main types of grip used in climbing:

1. Open hand

2. Half crimp

3. Full crimp

Only the first 2 grips are safe to use on a hangboard. You are welcome to choose between them to tailor to your weaknesses but, if you’re a hangboarding beginner, I recommend using half crimp.

If you are having a couple of hangboarding sessions a week, it could be a good idea to have one session with each grip. There is a massive difference between the 2 and, all the training in the world on one might still leave you as weak as a kitten on the other!

2. Retract Your Shoulders

When doing any form of hanging exercise your shoulders should be locked down, not sagging up by your ears. If this is a limiting factor for you then alternative training for scapular retraction should be your priority before doing any hangboarding.

On the other hand, try to make sure you are not retracting your shoulders so far as to activate your chest and arch your back.

Done correctly, you should end up with a slight bend in your elbow as a result of correct muscle activation. The bend it slight! We aren’t looking for 90° lock offs here. See the correct and incorrect examples below.

If you aren’t sure about this then ask someone (who looks like they know their way around a hangboard) how your form is. The climbing angels weep every time someone hangs on sagged shoulders.

3. Warm Up

Hangboarding takes no prisoners, so you’re risking injury every time you don’t warm up properly.

A good warm-up has 3 components:

1. Pulse raiser (cardio)
2. Limbering up (dynamic stretching)
3. Easy, strength-based movement such as pull-ups/shrugs on jugs or low-grade climbs

Your warm up should be at least 15 minutes long and even after this, I feel like my fingers still need more warming up. I’ll usually do some easy to medium-difficulty climbs for half an hour and then some short hangs on increasingly harder holds.

Check out our climbing warm-up routine for inspiration.

4. Warm Down

You should always be doing some form of warm down after any training session, but having one after a hangboarding session is particularly essential. Your fingers are delicate joints which won’t have a massive amount of blood flow through them on normal, daily activities.

This means that you’ve gotta put that little bit of extra effort in to clear that lactic acid and other gunk out before your arms cool down and it stays there.

If I have a hangboard session without warming down, I can feel it the next time I try to climb. My fingers and forearms will feel extra heavy, stiff and almost sticky. This is a direct effect of not warming down and trying to climb or train in this state can leave you very prone to injury!

After every hangboard session, take a bit of time to do some easy climbing and some low-level cardio for 5-15 minutes, if you’ve got the facilities. I find jump-roping to be one of the best and easiest exercises for getting blood flow around the body.

Massage improves blood flow and eases muscle sorness by pushing out those sticky exercise juices, so I also like to massage my forearms after a particularly finger-intensive hangboarding session. By this I mean I lightly squeeze and rub my forearm with my other hand. No fancy equipment or techniques. The low-level exertion this requires is also beneficial for the hand doing the massaging.

5. Stretch

No warm down is properly complete without some stretches. There are 2 main types of stretches.

1. Dynamic stretches, which you should be doing during your warm up to limber up
2. Static stretches, which you should be doing during your warm down to maintain flexibility

Dynamic stretches involve movement and the idea is to not bend or stress a joint too hard. Instead, you want to smoothly flow through the joint’s range of movement and see if it increases after a few cycles.

Dynamic stretches for the wrists and forearms are pretty straightforward. They involve things like wrist circles, flicking your fingers and making fists. Anything that uses the joint’s movement range without stress can be a good dynamic stretch as it will loosen the joint and increase blood flow.

Jazz hands are an excellent thing you can do to limber up while still being fabulous.

Static stretches are what your idea of a more typical stretch would be. Here the intention is to move the joint into a position that is towards the end of its movement range and hold it here or slowly let it ease in a bit further for an extended period of time.

These stretches should not be done before training and definitely shouldn’t be done before warming up! They are much more effective as part of the session warm down.

Static stretches should be held for 30 seconds each time and you should aim to carry out 3 or 4 sets after a hangboard session.

I recommend stretching all parts of the forearm and fingers (not just the flexors) so you should be doing a few different stretches here. An example of each could be holding your hands in a prayer position for the flexors, and then later pressing the back of your hands into the ground for the extensors.

You can find a much more detailed explanation on static stretches here and I highly advise you use the forearm stretches in that article.

6. Don’t Advance Too Fast!

This is what gets everyone.

It should take at least 2 months before noticing any significant improvements in hangboarding and there is never a point where you are not prone to overdoing it.

The healthiest way to look at hangboarding is as something in the background to facilitate climbing. Especially at the start, your goal with hangboarding should be to climb harder routes, not to hang from the smallest edge possible. If you decide to try a tougher edge every week, it’s possible to be caught off guard!

With many finger injuries, there aren’t any warning signs. One minute you’re feeling psyched about how you’re so much stronger than you thought you would be — and the next you can’t even lift the kettle to make a cup to tea to deal with the traumatic event that was your finger pulley exploding!

If you’ve not thought about training for climbing before then I would just go for one of the easiest edges (that aren’t jugs) on the board and work off of those.

If you have quite a bit of climbing experience but have never hangboarded, then it might be worth testing some of the thinner or less positive edges. Don’t worry about pushing yourself though. Even a relatively easy hangboard routine will still give you big improvements if you’ve never done it before!

Trust me, the people who develop these training plans have experienced enough injuries to know which rates of progression work and which don’t.

The 8-Week Hangboard Training Plan for Beginners

When I first looked into hangboarding, I was overwhelmed by the number of different boards and variations in training plans. Truth is, your first hangboard training plan doesn’t need to be complicated at all. Here is a simple 8-week plan to give you the foundations for more advanced training.

Each week consists of 2 hangboard sessions. Make sure you are rested beforehand (don’t have your hangboard sessions the day after a massive climbing session) and always warm up properly.

Preparation

Choose a pair of holds on your board that you can hang with good form (remember The Essentials) for 10 seconds but struggle or fail by 14-15. Then follow this week-by-week progression.

Week 1

1. 10 second hang
2. 30 second rest
3. Repeat steps 1-2 for 4 reps overall
4. 2 minute rest
5. Repeat steps 1-4 for 3 sets overall

Weeks 2-3

Repeat the steps in Week 1, this time for 4 sets overall

Week 4

Repeat the steps in Week 1, this time for 5 sets overall

Week 5

1. 10 second hang
2. 20 second rest
3. Repeat steps 1-2 for 4 reps overall
4. 2 minute rest
5. Repeat steps 1-4 for 3 sets overall

Weeks 6-7

Repeat the steps in Week 5, this time for 4 sets overall

Week 8

Repeat the steps in Week 5, this time for 5 sets overall

What to Expect Your First Time Hangboarding

For your first session or two, set your expectations low. Don’t expect to hang on tiny edges or see strength gains right away.

Your tendons and ligaments do not respond the same way muscles do — hangboarding won’t feel like a gym workout, and the benefits will take longer to materialize. Hangboarding takes persistence, patience, and above all, prudence.

If you go too hard too soon, you’re likely to injure yourself. Pulley tendon injuries are a high price to pay for overenthusiasm (take it from someone who’s had more than one).

Instead, focus on form. Get used to the feeling of hanging on the board. See how sets of hangs feel, and note how your body and fingers respond. If your fingers tire before you expected, that’s okay! The main purpose of the first few sessions is to introduce your body to the demands of hangboarding. Stick to your training plan and increase load gradually.

Resist the urge to overtrain. Don’t add extra hangs to your workouts or extra sessions to your week. Hangboarding is like liquid chalk: a little goes a long way.

Even if the session feels easy, don’t neglect your warm-up and warm-down. When you first start hangboarding, setting your routines and habits is just as important as completing the workouts.

In short: expect to take it slow, and trust the process. Your body (and fingers) will thank you — and you’ll be climbing stronger before you know it.

For more training articles, check out our guide to bouldering training.

The post Hangboard Training for Beginners: A Simple 8-Week Workout appeared first on 99Boulders.

The chalk bag is a climber’s loyal companion. Different objectives may call for different shoes, packs, protection, or even harnesses, but you’ll almost always see a climber with the same chalk bag. Your chalk bag has got your back.

It’s worth choosing one you like. We put nine of the best chalk bags to the test to see which did the best job at carrying climbing chalk.

Most (though not all) of these bags serve their purpose well. Still, a few set themselves apart. The Arc’teryx Ion is our top pick for its design and closure, although the mechanism takes some getting used to. The Sukoa Chalk Bag and Mammut Crag Chalk Bag are excellent cheaper options.

Quick Recommendations: Best Chalk Bags

1. Top Pick: Arc’teryx Ion
2. Runner-up: Mammut Crag Chalk Bag
3. Budget Pick: Sukoa Chalk Bag
4. Petzl Bandi
5. prAna Chalk Bag
6. Black Diamond Mojo Zip
7. STATIC Waxed Canvas Chalk Bag
8. Metolius Competition Chalk Bag
9. Two Ogres Essential-Z

Top Pick: Arc’teryx Ion

When we last tested products for this roundup, the Arc’teryx C80 was our top pick. The Ion is the C80’s replacement, and it retains the crown — but the victory wasn’t as clear. In some ways, the C80 was a superior bag.

The biggest difference between the C80 and the Ion is the closure mechanism. The Ion’s new drawstring system is functional and effective, but there’s a steep learning curve. The outer plastic piece locks into a rigid plastic sleeve, which is hidden in the bag’s lining. When the bag is open, the sleeve sits out of the way on the side of the bag. When locked, it ensures that the closure doesn’t budge.

The mechanism is a nifty idea, but it makes the bag hard to open after it’s been locked. The first time I used the Ion, I was afraid I was going to break it. It takes a lot of force to unlock the outer piece, and it never feels all that intuitive. Although technically usable one-handed, the Ion is difficult to lock and unlock on the wall.

The upside is that the closure is very effective. The Ion performed the best of all bags in our “poof test,” letting out practically zero dust when compressed.

In all other ways, the Ion exhibits typical Arc’teryx quality. It’s lightweight, well constructed, and durable. The pocket has plenty of room for large smartphones or whatever else you might need to stash. The tapered shape and wide rim funnel your hand right where it needs to go. Once it’s open, the Ion is a joy to use.

You can expect typical Arc’teryx prices, too. The Ion comes in two sizes, and both are the most expensive bags in this test. If you want the best performance, however, this is it.

Runner-up: Mammut Crag Chalk Bag

Mammut’s workhorse chalk bag doesn’t come with any bells or whistles, but it executes the basics well. If you want top performance without paying up for the Arc’teryx Ion, the Mammut Crag Chalk Bag is a good choice.

Like the Ion, the Crag has a tapered shape. It’s a great size: easy to use without ever feeling bulky. The shell is made from a combination of soft-touch and ripstop fabric. It’s not as premium as the Ion, but it feels well put together. On the wall, the Mammut bag let me forget that it was there, which is exactly what I look for in a chalk bag.

My only real complain is the drawstring keeper, which is stiff and difficult to use one-handed. It does lock securely, and the Crag performed well in the “poof test.”

The Crag has no pocket, which may be a dealbreaker for climbers who like to carry their phone in their chalk bag. For those who don’t need a pocket, this bag executes the basics well at a reasonable price.

Budget Pick: Sukoa Chalk Bag

The Sukoa Chalk Bag is an excellent value. It’s easy to use and surprisingly well built for its price point.

The Sukoa bag does require some compromises. The belt material is coarse, and the shape is awkwardly tall. You have to reach an extra inch or two down to the bottom of the bag. The drawstring tail is also annoyingly long, although it’s easy enough to tie knots to shorten it.

Despite its flaws, however, the Sukoa gets the job done remarkable well. It holds a lot of chalk, and its closure is effective. It has two zippered pockets, and the back pocket is the most spacious of any bag in the test. The zippers are from YKK, so they should hold up well over time.

The Sukoa Chalk Bag doesn’t feel like a premium product, but at this price point it was never going to. It’s a good way to get climbing with minimal financial impact, and for that it earns our Budget Pick nod.

Petzl Bandi

The Petzl Bandi is a simple and likable bag. It sticks to the basics: a cylindrical shape, a traditional drawstring closure, and a few brush slots.

Petzl is good at getting the fundamentals right, and the Bandi is Exhibit A. The fabric is soft but durable, and the closure performed well in testing. Thanks to the placement of its drawstring, the Bandi is easy to open one-handed.

I had few complaints while testing the Bandi, but I also found few standout features. It has no pocket, and the size isn’t as friendly for folks with large hands. The Bandi is priced similarly to the Mammut Crag Chalk Bag, but the Crag’s tapered shape made it easier to use on the wall.

That leaves the Bandi left in no-man’s land. It isn’t cheap enough to be our budget pick, but it isn’t exceptional enough to earn a top pick award. It remains a solid chalk bag, especially if you can find it at a discount.

prAna Chalk Bag

True to prAna’s ethos, this bag felt like a lifestyle choice. It’s soft and fashionable, and it’s almost proudly non-technical. It doesn’t have any fancy features other than a brush holder — just a simple sack and a belt. It’s charming.

The material is nice to handle, and it makes the prAna bag inviting to use. The downside is that the floppy fabric doesn’t provide much structure, which can lead to fumbling on the wall.

To make matters worse, the prAna bag is more expensive than most other bags in this test. It doesn’t have a pocket, and it isn’t a standout performer. It’s available in lots of fun patterns, but there are plenty of other ways to customize your look. For the price, the prAna isn’t good enough to be a top scorer.

Black Diamond Mojo Zip

The Mojo is a decent bag, but it’s hard to recommend over other options unless it’s on sale.

The cylindrical shape is usable but not exceptional, the closure is average, and the brim is wide enough to get the job done. It has a brush holder that works, and the reinforced lower portion should withstand some abuse. A zippered pocket seems like it could conceivably hold a topo.

This bag feels like a plausible baseline against which other bags can be measured. That’s not exactly a bad thing, but it’s not great either.

STATIC Waxed Canvas Chalk Bag

This is an interesting bag. Credit to STATIC for making a bag that’s different from most options on the market, even if it’s not a particularly good performer.

The main selling point of the STATIC Waxed Canvas Chalk Bag is right there in the name. The waxed canvas material is unique and alluring. It’s lovely to touch, and it feels durable enough to last for years. It provides enough structure for the STATIC bag to easily stand on its own, which is a nice touch.

In other ways, however, the construction makes life difficult. The brim had a nasty habit of collapsing when I reached for chalk, which made on-wall application a pain. The closure is among the poorest in this test, and the bag is noticeably heavier than those made from more technical fabrics.

The biggest compromise of all might be the price. The STATIC bag is expensive, and it doesn’t even include a belt — you’ll have to provide your own. A simple nylon belt is easy enough to find, but it adds to the STATIC’s already high price tag. When you add in the performance flaws, the unique material loses much of its appeal.

Metolius Competition Chalk Bag

This is another forgettable chalk bag. The materials are excellent, and the bag feels robust and durable. Unfortunately, things are spoiled by the opening. The brim isn’t rigid enough to stay open consistently, which makes it difficult to get a hand inside. The cylindrical shape is so-so, and there’s no pocket.

It’s not awful, but it’s not great. The Metolius is on the cheaper end of the spectrum, but if you’re looking to save some cash, we recommend the Sukoa bag instead.

Two Ogres Essential-Z

The Two Ogres bag is among the cheapest in our test, but this is a bag you could not pay me to use.

I suppose it’s possible that our bag was simply a dud, because plenty of Amazon reviewers seem to enjoy the Two Ogres. Still, the bag we received failed in nearly every conceivable way. It’s poorly shaped, and the brim is uneven. There isn’t enough space to hold lots of chalk, nor is there enough interior fleece to allow chalk to cling to the walls. The pocket is small enough that it’s barely usable. Nothing is easy to use — including, of all things, the belt, which is a pain to adjust.

Most shocking of all, however, was the closure. We pulled, prodded, and pushed every way we could imagine, but no matter what we did, only half of the drawstring closure would move. As a result, this chalk bag never even came close to closing.

Overall, it was a poor experience. It’s tempting to go for the cheapest option, but we recommend looking elsewhere.

How to Choose a Chalk Bag

Types of Chalk Bags

Chalk bags are a simple piece of equipment. The primary differentiator is shape.

Cylindrical: The most common type of chalk bag. These bags are about as wide at the top as they are at the bottom. If you like to use your chalk bag while bouldering, cylindrical bags tend to stand up well on their own.

Taper: Tapered chalk bags are wider at the brim and narrower at the base. This shape “funnels” your hands down to your chalk. Not all climbers like this shape, but I find that it makes chalking more intuitive on the wall.

Bulb: These bags have a wide, bulbous base. They create a pocket that holds more chalk than an equivalently sized cylindrical bag.

Pockets

Some climbers like to store their smartphone, a topo, some tape, or a snack in their chalk bag. If that sounds like you, you’ll want a chalk bag with a pocket. In this test, the Sukoa Chalk Bag and the Arc’teryx Ion provided the best storage for phones.

All the bags in this test have at least one slot to carry a brush. Some bags (like the Petzl Bandi) have multiple.

Chalk Bags FAQ

Are There Any Other Good Chalk Bags?

Yes. Some bags didn’t fit into this roundup but may still work well for the right climber.

The Mammut Alpine Chalk Bag, for instance, has nifty features aimed specifically at multipitch objectives. There are three pockets, an elastic accessory strap to carry a jacket, and a belt buckle with a double closure to guard against accidental openings. If you want to carry gear in your chalk bag instead of in your pockets or on your harness, this is a good way to do it.

Many manufacturers offer variations on their basic formula. For example, Black Diamond offers many variants of their Mojo bag, including a Honnold signature edition and a version made from repurposed fabric scraps. Unless you’re looking for a very specific look or feel, most of these changes won’t change the function of the bag.

Unique chalk bags are a great opportunity to express your personality and style. If the big-brand options aren’t doing it for you, look for smaller makers on Etsy or sites like Oterra Designs. I’ve climbed with a chalk bag from Krieg Climbing for many years, and it still makes me happy to hop on the wall with unicorns decorating my gear.

Finally, I give an honorable mention to the Black Diamond Hot Forge Heated Chalk Bag. As a climber with Raynaud’s, I am constantly looking for ways to keep my fingers warm when temperatures drop. The Hot Forge is expensive and requires some extra forethought to charge it up, but it genuinely works.

Do You Need a Chalk Bag for Climbing?

Not necessarily. Climbers in decades past got by without one, and some climbers today still prefer to climb without chalk.

That said, nearly everyone struggles with sweaty hands at some point. If you find your fingers getting slippery, you could probably benefit from a chalk bag.

Chalk bags are most useful for roped climbing because they allow you to chalk up one-handed while you’re on the wall. If you’re focused on bouldering, you may be better served by a bouldering chalk bucket.

Can You Wash a Chalk Bag?

Sure. Manufacturer recommendations differ on this topic, and it’s best to check if you’re unsure. Black Diamond recommends a wash in warm water with non-detergent soap. Arc’teryx says it’s best to stick to surface cleaning. Since chalk bags are (hopefully) not load-bearing or life-saving equipment, you have some leeway to wash how you see fit.

No matter how well you clean, chalk bags will get dirty. Chalk will stick to the outside, and you’ll inevitably scrape them up the side of some chimney. A dirty chalk bag is one that’s doing its job!

How Much Chalk Should Be in My Chalk Bag?

As much as you want!

Some climbers like to have a big clump of chalk in their bag to wrap their fingers around. Some prefer the metered application of a chalk ball, and others like a dusting that isn’t too thick. You don’t want so much chalk in your bag that it’s hard to stick your hand in, but you don’t want so little that it’s hard to apply.

Explore, find your own preferences, and stick to them. If you’re curious about the differences between chalks, check out our roundup of the best chalk for climbing.

The post 9 Best Chalk Bags appeared first on 99Boulders.

One unexpected side-effect of the pandemic was the rise of liquid chalk. Research showed that liquid chalk is an effective antiseptic against COVID-19, which provides some welcome peace of mind when you’re all using the same holds. During the height of the pandemic, some gyms required the use of liquid chalk.

In addition to its sanitary benefits, liquid chalk is a convenient way to keep your fingers dry and grippy, especially if you have issues with sweat. To find the best liquid chalk for climbing and weightlifting, I put five top products through the testing wringer on hot summer days in Southern California.

In a rare combination award, Petzl Power Liquid wins out as our Top Pick and Budget Pick for its blend of performance and value. If you have the cash, Friction Labs Secret Stuff provides a premium feel and a rosin-free experience.

In general, the differences I discovered during testing were small. All of the chalks in our test serve their intended purpose well. Read on for detailed comparisons.

Quick Recommendations: Best Liquid Chalk

1. Top Pick & Budget Pick: Petzl Power Liquid
2. Upgrade Pick: Friction Labs Secret Stuff
3. Mammut Liquid Chalk
4. Black Diamond Liquid White Gold Chalk
5. Fire Team Fit Liquid Chalk

Top Pick & Budget Pick: Petzl Power Liquid

Throughout testing, Petzl’s Power Liquid was consistently the liquid chalk that I reached for the most. It’s easy to apply, provides excellent friction, and lasts longer than most of the competition.

It does come with a few compromises, including the bottle. All of the other products in this test come in a bottle with a snap top, which makes opening and closing quick and easy. Power Liquid has a screw top. This reduces the likelihood of spillage inside a gym or crag bag, but it also makes access a pain. The nozzle has a star-shaped cutout to reduce clogging, which I appreciated after other bottles clogged up on me.

Petzl’s formula does include rosin, which has garnered some controversy (see notes below). Power Liquid also takes slightly longer to dry than most of its competition. The difference isn’t huge, and I was glad to sacrifice a few seconds of dry time for extended sweat-free use.

For maximum performance and longevity, Power Liquid earns top marks. It’s also the cheapest liquid chalk in this test, making it our Budget Pick as well. It’s rare that performance and value line up so well, but that’s good news for liquid chalk users.

Upgrade Pick: Friction Labs Secret Stuff

Friction Labs has built a reputation for high-performing chalk products that come with equally high price tags. Their Secret Stuff liquid chalk is no exception.

The biggest selling points of Secret Stuff are on the application side. It goes on easy, dries quickly, and feels silkier than the alternatives. Overall, it’s the most pleasant liquid chalk to use.

Secret Stuff is made with a simple list of ingredients: isopropyl alcohol, magnesium carbonate, and water. Unlike most liquid chalks, the formula does not include rosin (also known as colophonium). Over time, rosin can make holds polished and difficult to clean. Some gyms have banned its use entirely. For the cleanest liquid chalk experience, Secret Stuff is a good option.

The benefits aren’t as clear in the performance department. I found that Secret Stuff provided good friction, but it lasted no longer than alternatives from Black Diamond, Petzl, or Mammut.

Per mL, Secret Stuff is by far the most expensive product in this test. It’s hard to justify purely on performance, but if texture, dry time, and rosin-free climbing are important to you, it may be worth spending up.

Mammut Liquid Chalk

Mammut Liquid Chalk is a strong but unexceptional performer. It doesn’t feel as smooth as Secret Stuff, and it doesn’t last quite as well as Petzl Power Liquid. But it comes close, and it’s reasonably priced.

The bottle is easy to use and didn’t clog up during testing. Mammut Liquid Chalk is available in a small 100 mL bottle, which makes a good way to try out liquid chalk without breaking the bank.

All else being equal, Mammut Liquid Chalk wouldn’t be my first choice, but the sacrifices are small. Like most products in this test, Mammut’s formula includes rosin.

Black Diamond Liquid White Gold

Black Diamond’s White Gold liquid chalk isn’t bad, but it failed to distinguish itself in any meaningful way from the competition.

It’s easy to apply, but it doesn’t feel as smooth as Secret Stuff. It’s an effective drying agent, but it doesn’t last as long as Power Liquid. It’s more expensive per mL than the Petzl or Mammut products, and its formula includes rosin.

All that adds up to a mediocre value proposition. I had no major complaints after using Liquid White Gold, but I couldn’t come up with any reason to recommend it over our top picks.

Fire Team Fit Liquid Chalk

This liquid chalk was the designated representative for the dozens of clones available on Amazon. Much like the Black Diamond Liquid White Gold, it’s serviceable but not particularly good.

The Fire Team Fit Liquid Chalk was easy to apply, but its bottle started clogging up after only a few uses. It dries quickly, but it didn’t perform well in durability testing. Feel and friction are average.

This liquid chalk is currently available with Prime shipping, but even in a larger 250-mL bottle, it’s more expensive per mL than all products in this test except Friction Labs Secret Stuff. Unless you absolutely need liquid chalk delivered tomorrow, there’s no good reason to pay the premium.

How to Choose Liquid Chalk

Types of Liquid Chalk

With rosin: Most liquid chalk formulas include rosin (also known as resin, colophony, or colophonium). Historically used by boulderers in Fontainebleau, rosin makes rock and skin tacky for extra grip. Rosin is also an ingredient in some varnish formulations, for the opposite reason: it dries to a smooth, hard surface.

That may be good for tables, but it’s bad for climbing holds. Over time, rosin buildup creates a polish on natural and artificial holds alike. Rosin has drawn its fair share of controversy in Fontainebleau, and its use in liquid chalk has raised concerns about the effect on gyms and crags.

Powdered chalk comes with its own set of visual, textural, and respiratory compromises. The jury seems to still be out on the use of rosin formulas in the gym, but many experienced climbers agree that frequent rosin use outdoors (where holds are more difficult to clean) is a bad idea.

Rosin-free: The selection of rosin-free liquid chalk formulas is limited. The most widely available formulations come from Friction Labs, which offers three rosin-free liquid chalks with different proportions of alcohol. Wild Country’s liquid chalk, which I unfortunately couldn’t test for this roundup, is also rosin-free.

Size

Most of the options in this roundup are available in multiple sizes. If you know that you consistently use liquid chalk, larger bottle sizes provide the best value. If you’re still experimenting with liquid chalk use, smaller sizes let you try it out with minimal financial commitment.

Bottle

Most liquid chalk bottles have a snap top. They’re easy to open and close, but they’re more prone to being jostled open in a backpack or gym bag. I didn’t see this happen to any bottles during testing, but I have had it happen in the past. If you’re worried about spillage, it’s easy enough to pack your liquid chalk in a plastic bag for peace of mind.

Larger bottles may come with screw tops, which are more secure but take longer to open and close.

Liquid Chalk vs. Regular Chalk

Fundamentally, liquid chalk and powder chalk accomplish the same goal: keep your hands from getting sweaty. Both forms of chalk are based on the same primary ingredient: magnesium carbonate. Conventional chalk is a simple magnesium carbonate powder, while liquid chalk suspends the particles in some combination of solvents. They have distinct pros and cons.

Liquid chalk is easier to apply precisely, and it has some sanitary benefits. When applied properly, it lasts longer than a coat of powdered chalk. Liquid chalk doesn’t create clouds of particles that make their way into your lungs or a gym’s HVAC system.

The great advantage of powdered chalk is that it’s easy to apply one-handed on the wall. I’ve seen some climbers devise elaborate systems for using liquid chalk while climbing, but none compare to the simplicity and efficacy of a chalk bag.

Everyone’s skin is different, and not all climbers react well to liquid chalks. Some complain of sticky hands, rashes, and persistent dryness after use. If you find that your skin doesn’t get along with liquid chalk, there’s no reason to force the issue.

Many climbers combine liquid and powdered chalks by applying a base coat of liquid chalk, then using powdered chalk on top. This is my favorite way to use liquid chalk: it complements and enhances the effect of powdered chalk, and it slows the rate of consumption for both.

Climbers with especially sweaty hands are the most likely to benefit from liquid chalk use. If you’re happy with the performance of powdered chalk alone, there’s no real need to look elsewhere. Instead, head over to our roundup of the best climbing chalk.

Liquid Chalk FAQ

Is liquid chalk better than regular chalk?

That depends. Liquid chalk is effective, sanitary, and easy to use, but it’s difficult to apply while climbing. For that reason, it’s unlikely that liquid chalk will ever fully replace powdered chalk. Not all climbers enjoy or need liquid chalk, but if you find yourself consistently struggling with sweaty hands, it may be worth trying it out.

How long does a bottle of liquid chalk last?

Again, it depends. Liquid chalk comes in a wide variety of bottle sizes, and usage depends on everything from sweat levels to hand size. If liquid chalk is your only friction aid, you may find yourself going through a bottle in a matter of weeks. If your use is less frequent, a bottle is likely to last months.

Is liquid chalk messy?

Not really. As long as you’re careful when applying liquid chalk, it’s a clean and easy process. Once it has dried fully, liquid chalk is no more likely to spread onto your clothes or belongings than regular chalk.

The post 5 Best Liquid Chalks for Climbing appeared first on 99Boulders.

Bouldering is among the newest forms of climbing, and these days it may be the most popular. It doesn’t require tall walls or complicated knots, and it’s fun in groups. Especially in cities, bouldering is the most common form of indoor climbing. It’s a great way to train, learn, or just have a good time.

Bouldering requires a little know-how to get the most out of the experience. To help out, we put together a complete guide to starting your bouldering career.

What Is Bouldering?

Bouldering refers to climbs that are protected by pads rather than ropes.

Generally, that means that bouldering doesn’t take you too high off the ground — most boulder “problems” aren’t more than 12 or 15 feet tall. Most outdoor problems are located on large boulders (surprise), but some are on low cliffs.

Like many genres of climbing, this definition can get blurry. Some boulder problems are much longer than 15 feet, but because they stay close to the ground, they’re still protected by pads. These climbs may resemble sport routes more than traditional boulder problems, but they’re still categorized as boulders.

Other times, a tall boulder will have bolts and be categorized as a sport climb. Extremely tall problems blur the line between bouldering and free soloing. Past a certain point, pads can only help so much.

In general, however, boulder problems are relatively short sequences that prioritize power and technique over long-term endurance.

That doesn’t mean bouldering is any less difficult. Some boulder problems will still leave you gasping for air. Just like longer routes, boulder problems come in various levels of difficulty.

Which brings us to…

Bouldering Grades 101: An Overview of the V Scale & Font Scale

Climbing grades are a polarizing topic in the community, and I encourage beginner boulderers not to put too much stock in them.

Grades are a loose way for climbers to communicate with each other about how difficult problems are. Emphasis is on loose — grades are helpful, but they resist consensus and vary widely (especially indoors).

The two most common systems for grading boulder problems are the Hueco system (commonly known as the “V Scale”) and the Fontainebleau system (aka the “Font Scale”).

Here’s a map showing which countries most commonly use which bouldering scale:

Legend:

• Red = V Scale
• Blue = Font Scale

V Scale: The Most Common Grading Scale in North America & Oceania

In North America and Oceania, the V Scale is most common. It begins at V0 and counts up: V1, V2, V3…and so on.

Even V0 problems can be demanding — if you’re coming from route grades, a V0 problem can have moves as hard as a 5.10 climb. Some introductory problems will bear a “VB” grade, which means the problem is easier than V0.

In the first months of bouldering, most climbers learn on problems in the V0-V2 range. Moving up grades becomes difficult in a hurry, and breaking into double digits is the sign of an elite climber.

The upper end of the scale is open-ended. The title of “Hardest Boulder Problem in the World” is currently shared by Daniel Woods’s Return of the Sleepwalker and Nalle Hukkataival’s opus Burden of Dreams. Both problems were given a proposed grade of V17 and have yet to be repeated.

A post shared by Nalle Hukkataival (@nalle_hukkataival) on Oct 24, 2016 at 11:03am PDT

(For fun, we’ve compiled lists of the world’s hardest boulder problems and world’s hardest sport climbs.)

Font Scale: The Most Common Grading Scale in Europe & Asia

In Europe and Asia, you’ll usually see the Font Scale. It starts at 1 and is open-ended like the V Scale, though problems with grades lower than 3 are rare.

Unlike the V Scale, the Font Scale appends letters from A to C to grades of 6 or higher. Pluses are also added to further subdivide grades. A 6A+ is harder than a 6A, for example.

Font grades can be roughly translated to V grades and vice versa. Burden of Dreams, the V17 boulder mentioned above, is a 9A on the Font Scale.

Here’s a conversion chart showing the translations between these two scales:

If you’d like more background on the various climbing and bouldering grading systems, check out our complete guides to bouldering grades and climbing grades.

A Brief History of Bouldering

Exact history is hard to pin down, but short problems were likely used as training as early as the 19th century.

In the latter half of the century, climbers in Great Britain’s Lake District and the French forest of Fontainebleau were establishing problems at what would become some of the world’s oldest bouldering areas.

In the early 20th century, Fontainebleau became a hub for bouldering innovation. Specialized climbing shoes, rugs placed as protection, and basic dynamic moves are often traced back to Pierre Allain, one of the “Bleausards.” Fontainebleau is the first area in the world where bouldering was appreciated for its own sake, rather than as a training device for larger objectives.

The story of modern American bouldering begins with a mathematician named John Gill. Gill was an ex-gymnast, and in the 1950s he brought several lessons to his new sport.

He used chalk to absorb moisture, undertook specific strength training to improve, and advocated for bouldering as its own climbing discipline. He also brought a gymnast’s affinity for grading difficulty — the earliest American grading system was proposed by Gill himself: a simple rating of B1, B2, or B3.

It wasn’t until the latter half of the century that John “Verm” Sherman would coin the V Scale in the bouldering hotspot of Hueco Tanks, Texas. By that point, bouldering was catching on: guidebooks were printed, crash pads were mass produced, and bouldering became a recognized sport. In 1999, bouldering became an official category in the IFSC Climbing World Cup.

Bouldering has advanced a great deal, but it retains several core attributes: short lines, powerful and demanding sequences, and a focus on dynamic movement. The concentrated difficulty of boulder problems makes it an excellent way to test and train at the physical limit. A difficult bouldering project might require multiple sessions to stick a move, or weeks to perfect sequences.

Because bouldering allows climbers to work near their limits, technique and mentality are crucial. Even climbers who prefer to rope up can benefit from training on boulders. The relative simplicity of the equipment has made bouldering a popular and accessible form of climbing.

If you’re curious, John Gill has some excellent reflections on bouldering’s history on his website.

The Gear You Need to Get Started Bouldering Today

One of the chief virtues of bouldering is the lack of necessary equipment. All you need to get started is a pair of beginner-friendly climbing shoes.

And if you’re not sure you want to buy those, you can rent them at at your local climbing gym. When you’re ready to complete your kit, you can add:

• A chalk bag or chalk bucket
• Climbing chalk

Inside a gym, that’s all you’ll ever need. Just throw on your shoes, chalk up your hands, and start climbing — no knots, no belays, no fuss. Bouldering remains the cheapest and most accessible form of climbing.

Interested in Bouldering Outside? Consider Buying a Crash Pad

When you’re ready to make outdoor bouldering a habit, consider investing in your own crash pad. With a pad or two, you can visit the boulders whenever the mood strikes.

Pads have come a long way since the towels and rugs of old. Modern pads are constructed from thick foam wrapped in durable fabric, and they come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs. A crash pad is a significant investment, so get one you like. Here are our favorites.

Boulderers heading for the rocks are just like turtles — they carry their protection on their backs:

Accessorize!

Shoes, chalk, and a pad are the essentials, but climbers love gear and boulderers are no exception. Here are some accessories to consider adding to your gear cache over time:

• Hangboard — a powerful training tool (here’s a simple 8-week plan to get you started)
• Climbing brush — to brush off chalk and grime
• File or pumice stone — to take care of calluses
• Climbing salve — to help heal damaged skin
• Liquid chalk or chalk ball — required by some gyms to limit chalk dust
• Climbing tape — for taping up your fingers
• Grip strengthener — an off-the-wall way to build grip strength
• Climbing clothing — climbing shorts and pants are designed to be less restrictive and more durable than regular athletic clothing

Every climber’s gear preferences are different, and it’s always fun to personalize. I once knew a climber who carried around a humidity monitor so he could climb at the driest possible moment!

What to Expect Your First Time Bouldering

Climbing gyms come in a variety of configurations, but you can count on a few constants at bouldering walls.

Problems will be coded with color, using either colored tape or the color of the holds themselves. To climb a problem, use only holds belonging to that color.

Starting holds are usually marked in some obvious way — an extra piece of tape, a colored box, or a card with the grade on it. Start with your hands on the starting hold(s), and climb to the top of the wall.

Most gyms will also mark a finishing hold, either at the top of the wall or close to it. Some gyms have areas where climbers can “top out” and climb all the way on top of a formation.

In gyms where topping out is possible, an easy descent route like stairs or a ladder will provide an easy way back to the ground.

If you’re bouldering outside, a little more thinking is involved. There’s no tape or color-coding, so you’ll have to find your hand- and footholds for yourself (although most handholds are covered in chalk).

Starting holds are a matter of convention, and you may need to consult Mountain Project or a guidebook to find out what they are. Outdoors, almost every problem requires a top out of some form. Beware — topping out can be the most stressful part of a climb.

There are also no ladders or staircases outside, and getting down from a boulder can be tricky. Make sure you know the easiest descent route before you start the problem.

How to Fall Properly When Bouldering

You might not be too far off the ground, but that doesn’t mean bouldering is without risk. In fact, because every fall means hitting the ground, some types of injury (like broken wrists or ankles) are more likely on boulders than on roped climbs.

Safety begins with awareness. Make sure that nothing is on the pads below the problem you intend to climb: no water bottles, nothing to twist an ankle on, and especially no other climbers.

Falling safely is a skill unto itself, and it takes a little practice.

When you do fall, don’t try to catch other holds or slow yourself down. Instead, learn to go with the flow: accept the fall, stay engaged (but not stiff), and prepare for the landing.

Whenever possible, absorb shock with your knees first. Land with your feet flat and your knees bent and soft. Allow the knees to collapse and continue your fall, rolling onto your back (or your side, if necessary). As counterintuitive as it may seem, stay a little relaxed on the landing — stiff limbs are prone to injury.

Never land with your arms out or absorb impact with your wrists. Learn to bring your arms in when you fall, keeping them out of the way of the impact. Don’t try to stick the landing, either. It might be easy from a few feet up, but from the top of the wall it’s much safer to roll. On big falls, tucking your chin can help avoid whiplash.

Bouldering will put you in challenging positions — upside down, sideways, you name it. Every fall is different, and it’s worth thinking about how you might land if you fell from various different moves. The same concepts will almost always apply: go with the fall, stay relaxed but engaged, and don’t absorb shock with your arms.

Bouldering Lingo 101

Now that you’re ready to climb, you’ll need to learn to communicate with your fellow climbers. Like all forms of climbing, bouldering has its own jargon.

Here is an incomplete list of words you might hear at the boulders or in the gym:

• Beta (n.): Advice or insight regarding the best way to execute a move or sequence.
• Campus (v.): To climb without using your feet.
• Crux (n.): The hardest sequence of moves in a problem.
• Deadpoint (n. or v.): A long dynamic move with one hand, or the act of completing such a move.
• Dyno (n. or v.): A move requiring both hands (and sometimes both feet) to leave the wall in a long jump to the next hold, or the act of completing such a move.
• Flash (n. or v.): To climb a problem on your first try after having received information or seen someone climb it.
• Highball (adj. or n.): Describes a boulder problem tall enough that a fall from the top risks serious injury.
• Onsight (n. or v.): To climb a problem on your first try with no information about how to climb it.
• Problem (n.): A sequence of holds with a start point and end point.
• Project (n. or v.): A problem that a climber attempts many times while learning, or the act of working on such a problem.
• Send (v.): To climb a problem without falling.
• Soft (adj.): Easier than the advertised grade.
• Spot (v.): To guide another climber’s fall for safety.
• Spray (v.): To offer beta to another climber (esp. when unprompted).
• Stiff (adj.): Harder than the advertised grade.
• Tick mark (n.): A line drawn with climbing chalk on the rock or gym wall to indicate the location of hard-to-see holds. Sometimes shortened to “tick,” which can also be used as a verb.
• Top out (n. or v.): To climb until you can stand on top of a formation, or the moves allowing you to do so.
• Traverse (n. or v.): To move laterally across the wall, or a climb consisting mostly of lateral movement.

All this jargon can weave together in ways that are oftentimes difficult for beginner boulderers to follow.

For example: In the following clip, a climber performs a dyno, which was the crux of that problem.

Don’t stress too much about the lingo. There’s no shame in asking a fellow climber to explain the terms they’re using.

How to Spot Properly When Bouldering

Let’s zoom in on one of those terms: spotting.

Spotting requires standing below a climber while they move, ready to guide their fall should it be necessary. A spotter can help prevent climbers from landing on unsafe terrain or from falling in a position likely to cause injury.

Indoors, spotting is often unnecessary. When pads blanket every surface, it’s often safer to let a climber prepare for the fall on their own. Spotting might still be advisable in certain positions: with a high heel-hook, for example, a climber could fall head-first. A spotter can help ensure that the climber doesn’t land on their head or neck.

Outdoors, spotting becomes more important. Pads can only cover so much space and often leave gaps. Spotters help guide a fall to make sure the climber lands safely on the pads and don’t endanger their head, neck, or spine.

Just like falling, spotting is its own skill. It’s important to note that the spotter’s job is not to catch the climber’s full weight — doing so is likely to result in injuries for both. Instead, the spotter acts like a highway guard rail to make sure that the climber’s fall remains on safe terrain.

When in doubt, don’t be afraid to ask about the best way to spot a particular problem. Learn from experienced spotters before trying it on your own, but don’t be shy about asking for a spot if you need one!

Types of Boulders

No two boulder problems are alike, but a few common features help classify climbs.

• Arêtes and Compression: Climbing protruding fins and blocks often requires “hugging” or “slapping” up on various holds. You may have to do it with your feet, too!
• Circus Tricks: Competition climbing has popularized various forms of unique movement. You won’t find many running traverses or jump starts outside, but you can expect to find a few at most gyms.
• Cracks: Mostly found outdoors, crack problems involve specialized crack-climbing techniques.
• Overhangs: Tipped past 90 degrees, overhanging boulder problems put more weight on the arms. Expect big moves, clean falls, and lots of technique to learn.
• Roofs: the most extreme form of overhang, roofs require climbing on horizontal or near-horizontal formations. Holds tend to be bigger, but moves are often gymnastic and strength-intensive. Toe-hooks and heel-hooks are common, as is a burning sensation in the arms.
• Slabs: less-than-vertical boulder problems are the domain of delicate balance and small holds. Slabs will test your body awareness and footwork.
• Traverses: Long traverses are some of the most endurance-heavy problems in bouldering. Most gyms set at least one, but quality traverse problems also exist outdoors.
• Vertical: In between slabs and overhangs, vertical terrain requires good footwork and strong fingers.

You may find that you gravitate toward some categories more than others. Make sure to work on your weaknesses, too!

Bouldering Tips & Etiquette for Beginners

Like all communities, bouldering has its own set of rules and conventions. To avoid committing a faux pas, here are a few tips:

• Share the wall. When you’re the only one around, it’s fine to monopolize some real estate. But when there’s a crowd, make sure that you let other climbers share the wall. There’s a natural rhythm to taking turns, and it helps to have a break anyway. If the problem you want to climb overlaps with other problems, don’t begin until the other climbs are clear, too.
• Avoid giving other climbers beta unless you know they want it. Many climbers enjoy the process of figuring out climbs on their own. If you’re unsure, just ask the climber if they want beta or not.
• DO make sure to chat with other boulderers. Bouldering can be the most social form of climbing — make friends! Sharing a pad, a spot, or a project is a great way to meet other climbers.
• Keep your belongings in check. When you’re in the gym, don’t leave your water bottle on the pads. When you’re outside, be considerate and don’t spread your kit below the whole boulder.
• If someone has just brushed the holds on a problem, give them first dibs on the next attempt.
• If you’re about to try a move with wild swings or falls (like a horizontal dyno), consider notifying nearby climbers to avoid accidents.
• If your gym has movable pads, ask nearby climbers if they’re using a pad before you move it.
• If you accidentally disturb a route in the gym (by rotating a hold, scraping off tape, etc.), let the gym staff know so they can fix it.
• Leave no trace applies to bouldering too. No one wants to find your celebratory crushed beer can when they head out for a day at the boulders.
• Outside, it’s common for climbers to mark hand- or footholds with lines or dots of chalk, called tick marks. That’s fine, but make sure to brush them off when you leave so that other climbers can discover the subtleties for themselves.
• Be judicious about music and noise. If you’re in the gym, make sure that your headphones aren’t so loud that you can’t hear warnings from other climbers. If you’re outside, consider your surroundings before blasting the Beastie Boys on your bluetooth speaker.
• Don’t squash the stoke. If someone needs help or advice, do your best to help out. If a climber just sent their project, don’t start yammering about how easy it was for you. Don’t look down on other climbers for their ability or style. The climbing community is at its best when we look out for each other — be kind and supportive, and others will be too.
• When in doubt, ask! Boulderers tend to be a welcoming bunch, and most are more than happy to help you learn.

That’s a lot to keep in mind. As always, the number one rule is to enjoy the process.

Compared to other climbing disciplines, bouldering has a reputation for being hard. It’s all about pushing limits and persevering.

That’s part of the charm, but remember to have some fun, too. The moves may be difficult, but the company is good, the rewards are many, and the rocks are waiting.

Related Articles

• Bouldering Training 101: The Complete Guide
• The Hardest Boulder Problems in the World
• 19 Beginner Climbing Tips to Help You Stay Motivated & Start Crushing
• Climbing Moves, Holds, & Technique: The Beginner’s Guide

The post Beginner’s Guide to Bouldering: What It Is & How to Get Started appeared first on 99Boulders.

Gone are the days when climbing a 5.15 was truly rare. By our count, there have now been more than 500 ascents of 5.15 climbs.

It’s been a while since our last update, and sport climbing has refused to slow down in spite of a global pandemic. In 2021, there were 73 ascents of 5.15 routes. That’s the most of any year in history, although 2022 is on track to set a new record.

Many of those ascents were made by young guns rising through the ranks, including Jorge Diaz Rullo and Jonatan Flor. Laura Rogora and Julia Chanourdie joined Anak Verhoeven, Angela Eiter, and Margo Hayes on the list of women to climb 5.15.

But some things are eternal, and one of them seems to be Adam Ondra. Ondra retains his title as the best sport climber in history — he has three times as many 5.15 ascents as the next contestant (the formidable Alex Megos). Ondra’s landmark 5.15d, Silence, remains unrepeated.

In total, 115 climbers have now climbed a 5.15 route, and 38 have climbed a 5.15b. Jakob Schubert and Sean Bailey became the fifth and sixth climbers to reach 5.15c, joining Ondra, Megos, Ghisolfi, and Sharma. The latest contribution comes from Seb Bouin, who proposed a new 5.15d (9c) with his ascent of DNA.

To help keep track of it all, this article includes a running list of the hardest climbing routes in existence. To keep things simple, I cut the grade off at 5.15a (9a+) and above.

I spent many, many hours researching and tallying these ascents. However, I’m still human. If you notice any missing ascents or data entry errors, let us know in the comments and we’ll take a look at it during our next update.

The World’s Hardest Sport Climbs

List Criteria

• Climbs had to be graded 5.15a (9a+) or higher. Adding 5.14d (9a) climbs would have made this list horrifically long. If routes were given the slash grade of 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+), I did not include them.
• For climbs where there was disagreement about the grade (of which there were surprisingly few), I averaged the grade suggestions. Surprisingly, there few cases of real controversy over grade. Where climbs have been repeated, climbers by and large tend to agree on the grade. After averaging grade suggestions, some routes included in previous updates (like Akira and Bone Tomahawk) dropped below our 5.15a threshold and were therefore omitted.
• I included all claimed ascents. Some of these (see notes below) have since been called into question. These are rare cases, and generally climbers tend to be an honest bunch about FAs (let’s not talk about Cerro Torre). It’s much more likely that some of the proposed grades will shift. Most of these routes haven’t been repeated, and downgrading/upgrading is still relatively common at the upper edge of the sport. Where there is only one ascent, I included the climb at the grade proposed by the first ascensionist.

» MORE: The Hardest Boulder Problems in the World

Notes on Specific Climbs, Climbers, & Ascents

• Fred Rouhling has drawn more than his fair share of controversy. A scapegoat for chipping tactics in the 90s, he drew an especially large barrage of flak when he proposed an unheard-of grade 9b for Akira. For a long while, Akira stood as the world’s first proposed 5.15b (9b). In 2020, Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez became the first climbers to repeat it. Although they confirmed the grades of other Rouhling routes, both suggested 5.14d (9a) for Akira (Bouin believes the grade would drop further with a kneepad). Rouhling claims that broken holds are responsible. After the downgrades, Akira drops off of our list.
• Chilam Balam is another controversial first ascent. At first, Bernabé Fernández’s route drew criticism for many of the same reasons as Rouhling’s: Fernández did not have a track record of 5.15 ascents, and he was known for questionable practices on other climbs (most notably Orujo). Then Dani Andrada went to try the climb and reportedly saw very little evidence of rubber or travel, especially on the upper sections. It’s hard to say how much of this is verifiable or useful, and Fernández has been fairly open about his feelings on the climb and the grade. Chilam Balam has since settled at 5.15a/5.15b (9a+/9b), though some still doubt that Fernández ever climbed it. With Akira and Chilam Balam downgraded, the mantle of “World’s First 5.15b” falls to Sharma’s Jumbo Love.
• Alex Huber is one of the most outspoken critics of both of the above ascensionists, which may or may not be related to the fact that he also owns a groundbreaking first ascent. Huber’s Open Air, originally proposed at 5.14d, was upgraded by none other than Ondra himself. Huber later revised his grade upward. Although it may lose its title as the only 5.15 climb of the 1990s (see below), Huber’s ascent was a groundbreaking moment for climbing and came a full five years before Sharma’s famous ascent of Biographie.
• Qui and Mutation, two 1990s routes originally graded 5.14+, may provide Open Air with some competition. Adam Ondra became the first climber to repeat Qui since Stefan Fürst put it up in 1996, and he suggested an upgrade to 5.15a (9a+). Similarly, Scottish up-and-comer Will Bosi repeated Steve McClure’s Mutation (FA 1998) and suggested a grade of at least 5.15a. These climbs remain absent from our list because of grade averaging, but if other climbers confirm the upgrades, they may prove that Huber wasn’t the only 5.15 climber in the 1990s.
• Pirmin Bertle rounds out our discussion of grading controversy. Yet another ascensionist to propose a controversial 5.15b on Meiose, Bertle offered as justification only the fact that it took him longer to project the climb than a 5.15a would have. In February 2018, Ondra sent the route and did indeed suggest a downgrade to 5.15a. Bertle was not pleased. Though Ondra is probably the climber best equipped to judge grades at this level, the climb sits at 5.15a/b in our table due to averaging. Not one to be discouraged, Bertle went right ahead and suggested 5.15b for La Barriere, a linkup in Jansegg.
• As deep water solos, Alasha and Es Pontas are in many ways a category of their own. Consequently, Chris Sharma has been reluctant to grade either one. Jernej Kruder, the first climber to repeat Es Pontas, agreed with Sharma that “this thing is so specific” and did not assign a grade. Jan Hojer followed suit. In 2021, Jakob Schubert became the first climber to repeat Alasha. His grade suggestion of 5.14d (9a) dropped it from our list, but he agreed that deep water soloing is an art all its own: “If you just want to climb difficult, you go somewhere else.”
• Tinipi, Daniel Woods’ epic-looking climb on Mont Kinabalu, is unique on this list as the only climb no longer in existence. Just weeks after Sachi Amma claimed the second ascent, a magnitude 6.0 earthquake hit Malaysia and toppled the Donkey’s Ears formation. Sadly, this means that no one will ever attempt the route again.

The World’s Current Hardest Sport Climb

Based solely on grade, the world’s hardest sport climbs are currently Silence and DNA, both rated 5.15d (9c).

This title was previously shared by Change, La Dura Dura, and Vasil Vasil — all of which are graded 5.15c (9b+). With his 2017 ascent of Silence, Ondra opened a new grade. Silence has yet to be repeated, but Ondra isn’t generally one to give soft grades.

As I was compiling data for this update, Seb Bouin announced that he had sent his Verdon Gorge project, which he dubbed DNA. Bouin estimated that he spent close to 200 days working the route and proposed a grade of 5.15d (9c).

He’s not the first to join Ondra in suggesting the grade. In 2020, Alex Megos made the first ascent of Bibliographie and also proposed 5.15d (9c). Stefano Ghisolfi downgraded the route to 5.15c (9b+) after he repeated it in 2021, and Megos agreed. Bibliographie is now the world’s fifth 5.15c.

» MORE: The Hardest Trad Climbs in the World

The Best Sport Climber in the World

The numbers here don’t lie — Adam Ondra is far and away the best sport climber in the world. He has logged triple the 5.15 ascents and FAs of the next most prolific hardmen in each category (Alex Megos and Chris Sharma). He is the lone ascensionist of what may be the world’s hardest climb, and many of his ascents took shockingly little time. In February 2018, Ondra made history by claiming the world’s first 5.15a flash on Saint Léger’s Super Crackinette.

There is one major factor to commend Sharma, and it’s how far he was ahead of his time. A full 80% of Sharma’s 5.15 climbs were first ascents. He is rightfully renowned for putting up some of the most groundbreaking and excellent climbs of our generation — climbs like Biographie, Pachamama, and Jumbo Love. That’s not to mention his mastery of that tricky medium, deep water soloing: Es Pontas and Alasha remain in a class of their own.

Still, it’s possible that one day we’ll be speaking about Change the way we now talk about Biographie. Adam Ondra is currently so far ahead of the curve that no one can confirm how classic his new climbs are.

Anak Verhoeven made history as the first woman to make a 5.15 FA with Sweet Neuf, and Angy Eiter made it again when she became the first woman to send a 5.15b (Laura Rogora and Julia Chanourdie have since repeated the feat). Limits are being pushed all over the place, and it’s exciting to imagine what’s yet to come.

Grade-Chasing

It took a while for climbers to really break into the 5.15s. There were a couple flares in the late 90s and early 2000s (including some truly revolutionary ascents), but 5.15 ascents didn’t become a regular occurrence until the late aughts.

After Huber climbed Open Air in 1996, it took more than a decade for Chris Sharma to make the first ascent of Jumbo Love in 2008. Four years later, Ondra bagged the first 5.15c on Change, and in 2017 he proposed the world’s first 5.15d.

In the last update, I noted the recent pattern of progression every four or five years and wrote: “if things continue as they have, we can expect to wait until the early 2020s before seeing a 5.16a (9c+).”

We’re now about due for that 5.16a, but I’m not sure it’s coming. There’s another, simpler explanation for the march of progress through the 2010s: Adam Ondra was ahead of his time. Barring another exceptional talent, we may be back to waiting a decade or more for new frontiers to be unlocked.

A few other conclusions stand out from the data. One is that grades tend to get pushed by a very select few. It takes a while for other ascensionists to catch up. It took about a decade after Open Air for 5.15a ascents to become common, and frequent 5.15b ascents didn’t start popping up until the 2010s. To date, we’ve still seen only eleven ascents of a 5.15c.

On the other hand, at a level just below the tip-top, the sport seems to be accelerating. The total number of 5.15 climbers grew by about 140% in the time since our last update. Many of those climbers are young and still improving.

Climbing itself is growing, so it makes sense for the number of top ascensionists to grow as well. Training methods, accessibility, and equipment are all improving. In the future it seems likely that we’ll see more high-level ascents from an increasingly diverse group of climbers.

All the same, the fact that 5.15c/d ascents have remained so elusive is a testament to how difficult it is to push through the plateaus. Not only does it take exceptional athletes with exceptional drive, but it takes projects at just the right level and in just the right style.

This is part of what makes iconic ascents — from Es Pontas to Silence — seem so revolutionary. Almost all top climbers want to be pushing the boundaries, but grade-wise, only a handful ever do. Technology and growth will surely change the sport, but it seems likely that limits will still be broken inch by laborious inch, over long periods of time, by an extremely elite few.

My final note is that it’s hard to predict when ascents and grades will happen, and even harder to predict which grades will stick. It might take another decade for someone to repeat Silence or confirm another 5.15d, or it might happen in the next year. The rise of 5.15 ascents means that this is an exciting time for climbing, and personally I’m excited to see what the next generation has in store.

Where in the World Are the Hardest Sport Climbs?

Mostly in Europe, it turns out. Nearly 90% of the world’s 5.15 climbs are in Europe.

Most of the remaining climbs are in the USA and Canada. Only a handful are not located in Europe and North America.

That’s both a testament to the insular nature of climbing and a bright look at the future. Imagine all the difficult routes that could be put up around the world — as the sport continues to expand, it finds most of the globe unexplored.

The post The Hardest Sport Climbs in the World (2022 Update) appeared first on 99Boulders.

Setting and reaching goals is one of climbing’s most rewarding aspects. Whether those goals are free climbing El Cap or just moving up a notch on the grade ladder, improvement unlocks new possibilities and new terrain.

Getting there isn’t always easy. Whether you’re just starting your climbing journey or you’ve reached a plateau after years of effort, these steps can help you get better at rock climbing, improve your technique, and reach the next level.

1. Establish a Routine

If you’re serious about improving your climbing, make a habit out of it.

This doesn’t just go for climbing or training. Make a habit of resting and recovering. Get in the habit of eating well. The more consistent you make your climbing life, the more focused you can be on pursuing your goals.

That’s not to say that your routine can never change. Goals change, circumstances change, and perspectives change. Preparing for a big wall is different from preparing for a season of sport climbing.

Whatever you’re preparing for, make sure that you stick to it. The first step is always showing up.

2. Structure Your Routine Carefully

All climbers have to make basic choices about their schedule. How often will you climb? How much time will you leave for rest? How will you spend your time during gym sessions?

There’s no right or wrong answer to these questions. A teenager entering in competitions will have a different schedule from a working adult who gets out on the weekends.

It’s worth putting some thought into how your schedule and your goals can work together. If you have limited time in the gym each week, be deliberate about what you do each day. Make the best use of your time, and plan your training so that your performance peaks at the right time.

3. Find a Buddy (or Two)

Some people prefer the solitary process of training alone, but many climbers find that company helps. A friend can help you get motivated, try hard, and stay accountable.

Climbing is inherently social. If you like to hang out on ropes, you’ll need a belay partner. Boulderers inevitably share pads, problems, and projects. Even on the moon board or campus board, you’re likely to find yourself sharing space.

Connecting with the community is a great way to learn and stay motivated. If you can set up a schedule with a training partner or two, all the better.

When you’re truly limited to training alone (as many were during the pandemic), don’t lose hope. You can find encouragement, advice, and accountability on forums like Mountain Project or r/climbharder.

4. Dial in Your Technique

It’s easy to focus on getting stronger and overlook getting better. Having a strong back or iron fingers doesn’t necessarily translate to climbing well on the wall.

Make sure that you spend time refining your technique. Climbing technique is infinitely complex, and a full overview is beyond the scope of this article. We’ve got you covered with a beginner’s guide, and you can find a variety of useful resources on the internet.

In general, better technique means wasting less energy. Learn to eliminate extra movement, keep your feet quiet, and reduce overgripping. Learn to trust those tiny foot chips. Whenever you find yourself getting stuck on a project, see if there’s an opportunity to improve your technique. In many cases, small adjustments can unlock new levels of difficulty.

5. Add Specific Training Elements (optional)

Climbing requires highly specific forms of strength. To maximize results, training should be equally specific.

Tools like a hangboard or campus board allow you to work on aspects like power, crimp strength, and contact strength in relative isolation. If you’re not already comfortable with these forms of training, ease into it. We’ve put together handy intros to hangboarding and campus boarding.

Although these methods are effective, they can also be counterproductive. Without proper care, training on the hangboard or campus board can easily lead to injury. Make sure that you structure your routines carefully and leave adequate time for recovery.

If you find that your climbing is improving without use of these tools, there’s no need to add them. Many climbers (even at very advanced levels) can continue growing without spending significant time on a board.

6. Train Your Brain

Sometimes stumbling blocks are physical, but other times they’re mental. Climbing is cerebral as much as physical, and working on your headspace can pay dividends.

If you find yourself holding back due to fear of falling, see if you can become more comfortable on the wall. Get used to taking falls safely and trusting the systems that protect you. The more you can focus on the moves themselves, the harder you’ll climb.

Some climbers struggle with particular types of moves or terrain. If you get shaky every time you climb a slab, start easy and work up until you find your confidence level building. If you hate heel hooks or drop knees, seek out projects that incorporate those moves. The more you build your mental library of climbing tools, the more options you’ll have when you’re solving problems on the wall.

7. Push Yourself

On a related note, get comfortable pushing your limits. If you only try routes that you know you can climb, you’ll never get the chance to surprise yourself.

Don’t be afraid to try routes and problems above your pay grade. You may not always reach the top of the wall, but you’ll get a sense of what it takes to reach the next level. Once you know what’s holding you back, you can more effectively tailor your training to your weaknesses.

8. Don’t Forget to Rest

This is true both on and off the wall.

I’ve seen climbers who train and pull hard but forget to take rests on the wall. Learning to rest effectively can be a game changer. If you can manage your energy and find time to recover on a route, you’ll have more gas for the crux when it matters. Pay attention to your rhythm, your breathing, and any areas of unnecessary tension.

Off the wall, rest is at least as important as training. Gains don’t happen in the gym — they happen the next day when you’re sitting on the couch eating a good meal. Training taxes your body, and recovery provides the opportunity to build back stronger. Without adequate rest and nutrition, you’ll dig yourself into a training hole that leads to burnout, fatigue, or injury.

9. Injury Prevention

Nothing kills your training momentum faster than an injury. If you have to take significant time away from climbing, you’ll lose the progress you worked so hard to achieve.

It can be a difficult balance to strike, but every climber should stay aware of their body and build a foundation of strength and flexibility. Train those antagonist muscles, and use targeted exercises to support the areas that take the most stress.

Every workout should start with a good warmup. Give your body a chance to get blood flowing and lubricate your joints before you start pulling at max effort. When your day is over, try to find time for a brief cooldown.

10. Watch and Learn

You’ll meet many climbers along your journey in the vertical world. Most will bring a different perspective, and many will be stronger than you.

Pay attention to how others climb, train, and recover. Not every climber is worth imitating, but watching others can improve technique and provide inspiration.

Watch how expert climbers move their feet. If you struggle with dynos, watch someone who’s really good at them. Try to integrate new ideas into your own climbing. Your style may not always match up with another climber’s, but looking at the wall in a new way can lead to productive breakthroughs.

11. Write it Down

One of the cheapest and most useful training aids is frequently overlooked: the humble notebook.

As you establish a schedule, set your goals, and undertake training, write down your progress. Seriously. Do it. Dedicate a notebook to your climbing goals and record your journey in whatever way feels best to you. This doesn’t have to include only grades or reps — write down how you felt, things you noticed, ideas you had, and techniques you tried. Write down your successes and your struggles, your wishes and your fears.

Writing everything down provides a variety of benefits. You’ll have a concrete record of your benchmarks, your progress, and your struggles. Over time, you’ll be able to identify patterns in your climbing and use them to improve your routine. Do you always struggle on the third training day of the week? Are you consistently over- or underachieving on a specific type of problem? Having a written record allows you to learn from your own history and find the training style that works best for you.

12. Be Patient

Climbing performance is a fickle beast. Some days you feel great; other days gravity is extra strong. Some seasons you’ll shatter your previous highs and unlock new levels, while other seasons you may find yourself regressing.

Don’t lose the forest for the trees. Remember to look at the big picture, accept the highs and lows, and stay focused on your goals. If you get discouraged every time you hit a roadblock, your training will not only be less effective, it will be less fun.

If you’re struggling to reach a particular goal, take some time to build your foundation. Don’t expect to send your first V7 right after your first V6. Instead, see if you can send eight V5s in a variety of styles. Climb every V4 in the gym. Think of performance as a pyramid – if you can widen your base, you’ll eventually raise your apex.

13. Change Something (When Necessary)

If you find yourself frustrated and stuck in a plateau, try something totally different.

It might be a different discipline. If you’re a sport climber, try trad climbing. If you’re a trad climber, spend some time bouldering. Climbing across disciplines gives you the opportunity to build new skills, use new parts of your brain, and get some space from the frustration.

Sometimes, all it takes is a change in mindset. Let go of the project that’s stumping you, try something totally different, and come back when you’re fresh.

Even the best climbers in the world have to change things up. This is nothing to be ashamed of — it’s an inevitable part of striving for improvement in a difficult sport.

14. Don’t Get Too Hung Up On It

Becoming a better climber is a worthy goal. The process of improvement is rewarding and enlightening.

But don’t let it come at the cost of your mental or physical well-being. Putting too much focus on grades, strength, and achievement can have a negative affect on your life as well as your climbing. For training to be effective and sustainable, you need to preserve your love of climbing. Otherwise, you’ll inevitably burn out.

This looks different for everyone. Some climbers truly love waking up early to hop on the hangboard. If that’s you, get after it. Other climbers may need to reserve time to climb for fun, hop on easier routes, or just have a break. That’s okay, too.

Wherever your strike zone is, remember the reasons why you got into climbing in the first place. Try to enjoy the challenges as much as the triumphs — if you can manage that, you’ll be a better climber in no time.

The post How to Get Better at Climbing: 14 Tips for Sending Hard appeared first on 99Boulders.

Not too long ago, the bouldering world lacked even a single consensus V16. There are now about eight (depending on what you call “consensus”): Box Therapy, Creature from the Black Lagoon, Ephyra, Grand Illusion, Hypnotized Minds, No Kpote Only, Off the Wagon Sit, and Sleepwalker.

Two proposed V17s have been downgraded, and two still await a second ascent: Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams and Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker.

What follows is a sortable list of all the hardest boulder problems in the world. Many of the problems do not yet have a consensus grade, so I came up with a formulaic way to assign one to each based off the existing grade suggestions.

Cutting-edge bouldering ascents have accelerated rapidly over the last three years. Climbing V15 remains a remarkable accomplishment and a badge of honor for the best boulderers in the world, but it has become increasingly common. Since our last update, climbers logged over 200 V15 ascents.

To preserve the focus of this article (as well as the sanity of its author), I’ve raised the cutoff grade from V15 (8C) to V15/V16 (8C/8C+). Even with this restriction, the number of included ascents more than doubled since 2019.

I’ve tried my best to be as comprehensive as possible with this list. However, I’m still human. If I’ve made any mistakes or left off any problems or people you think should be added, let me know in the comments and I’ll take a look at it during the next update.

Highlights from the Latest Update

• The V17 Curse: Since the last update, two proposed V17 (9A) boulder problems have been downgraded. Charles Albert’s No Kpote Only was downgraded once by Ryohei Kameyama and again by Nico Pelorson. Simon Lorenzi’s Soudain Seul fared slightly better, receiving an initial downgrade (again by Pelorson) followed by a V17 suggestion from Camille Coudert. According to our formula, that leaves its current grade at V16/V17 (8C+/9A), though future ascents may move the consensus back to V17.
• A New Contender: Daniel Woods proposed a new V17 with his ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker in 2021. Like Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams, Return of the Sleepwalker has yet to see a repeat.
• V16 Bonanza: There are now 27 boulders in the world that have been proposed or confirmed at V16 (8C+). More than half saw their first ascent in the last three years, and the number of unique ascensionists at the grade more than doubled during that time.

The World’s Hardest Boulder Problems

The World’s Current Hardest Boulder Problem

Based solely on grade, the title of world’s hardest boulder problem is currently shared by two problems: Burden of Dreams and Return of the Sleepwalker. Both are currently graded V17 (9A).

Both problems have only one ascent. Nalle Hukkataival sent Burden of Dreams in October 2016, making it the first problem ever to receive a proposed grade of V17 (9A). Daniel Woods sent Return of the Sleepwalker in April 2021.

» MORE: The Hardest Sport Climbs in the World

List Criteria & Grading Guidelines

• The grade had to be V15/V16 (8C/8C+) or higher. In other words, problems graded V15 (8C) and lower were left off the list. For the remainder of the article, I will refer to problems graded V15/V16 (8C/8C+) or higher as “hard” problems.
• For problems with no consensus grade, I averaged the V Scale translation of the grade suggestions. If the average had a remainder less than ⅓, I rounded down. If the average had a remainder between ⅓ and ⅔, I treated it as having a slash grade. If the average had a remainder above ⅔, I rounded up. I also averaged slash grades: V14/V15 was treated as 14.5, for instance. For example, let’s consider the problem Soudain Seul. Currently, three climbers have sent it. Simon Lorenzi proposed a grade of V17 (9A). Nico Pelorson proposed a grade of V16 (8C+), and Camille Coudert suggested V17 (9A). I averaged the V Scale translation of these grades (17, 16, 17) to get 16⅔. Since the remainder is ⅔, I treated Soudain Seul as having a slash grade of V16/V17 (8C+/9A).
• I did not take into account anything other than the proposed grades. Some climbers are known for grading hard. Some problems are considered soft for their grade. Some problems on this list could be considered traverses. I didn’t consider any of this. I respected each climber’s suggestion and just considered the proposed grade(s).

Who Is the Best Boulderer Ever?

Here are two tables based on the data in the above list showing who has sent the most hard boulder problems and who has racked up the most hard boulder first ascents (FAs).

Daniel Woods tops both charts. Sheer volume is not the only way to assess a boulderer’s ability, but as Woods also shares the spotlight with Nalle Hukkataival for the world’s only proposed V17 ascents, he has a strong claim to the title of “World’s Best Boulderer.”

Adam Ondra holds or shares the second position in both categories. This is a remarkable confirmation of Ondra’s versatility as a climber — his sport climb Silence remains the hardest in the world at a proposed grade of 5.15d (9c).

Grade-Chasing

The first boulder problem to ever receive a suggested grade of V15 (8C) was Dreamtime, which Fred Nicole put up in 2000. Dreamtime has since been downgraded, but in 2002 Nicole climbed Black Eagle SD and Monkey Wedding which both currently stand as consensus V15s.

Put another way, it took just two years from the time the V15 grade was first proposed for a problem to be put up whose V15 grade would hold after multiple repeats.

(There is another V15 that was put up before Black Eagle SD and Monkey Wedding. But the problem, Gossip, has only two grade suggestions and is therefore still at risk of being downgraded.)

The story is different for the V16 (8C+) grade. The first problem with a proposed grade of V16 appears to have been Tonino ’78, first sent by Mauro Calibani in 2004. It wasn’t until 12 years later, in 2016, that Creature from the Black Lagoon would become the world’s first consensus V16. Another Woods problem, Hypnotized Minds, has since reached consensus and currently stands as the world’s earliest confirmed V16 (FA in 2010).

Assuming Creature from the Black Lagoon’s grade continues to withstand the test of time, it took a decade longer for the V16 grade to go from suggestion to consensus than it did V15. That’s a staggering, and intriguing, difference.

Until a grade has been widely established, downgrading is common. Sometimes new beta gets found that makes a problem easier. But that doesn’t explain all cases. Nalle wrote a blog post way back in 2010 detailing his thoughts on why this apparent stalling of grade progression happens. In our last update, I wondered: Shouldn’t there be more V16s?

They seem to have finally arrived. 33 climbers have now climbed a V16 (8C+) problem, and the number of V16 boulders has risen from 12 to 27. The mystery around the grade seems to be (finally) dissipating.

The drop-off remains precipitous above that level. Only five climbers have climbed V16/V17 (8C+/9A) or higher, and only two have climbed V17 (9A).

Nearly six years have already passed since Nalle Hukkataival first suggested V17 (9A) for Burden of Dreams. No climber has managed a second ascent, and that’s not for lack of attempts — the problem has repelled several world-class boulderers.

Although its first ascent was only a year ago, Return of the Sleepwalker also remains unrepeated. This may be an early sign that the grade on these two problems is more likely to stick. The only other proposed V17s, No Kpote Only and Soudain Seul, were repeated (and downgraded) within months of the first ascent.

Even so, the timeline of previous grades shows that advancement is slow. If history is any indicator, it may take several more years before the bouldering world sees a consensus V17.

Where in the World Are the Hardest Boulder Problems?

Here’s a table for that:

Currently, only 11 countries are home to a hard boulder problem. And it’s quite incredible to realize:

• 8 of those countries are in Europe
• There is only one country from the Southern Hemisphere on the list: Australia.

If hard boulders are anything to go by, bouldering’s global potential remains largely untapped.

When to Project vs. When to Train, Backed by Data

Finally, for fun I tallied the ascents of all the hard boulder problems by month for the northern hemisphere. (There weren’t enough sends for the southern hemisphere.)

Most of the hard boulder sends came in the coldest months of the year. At the very least, this table can give you some insight on when to tackle your outdoor projects and when to focus on training.

Willis Kuelthau contributed to this latest update.

The post The Hardest Boulder Problems in the World (2022 Update) appeared first on 99Boulders.

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The post U.S. Climbing & Bouldering Gyms: The Complete List appeared first on 99Boulders.

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