Bouldering Training 101: The Complete Guide (Updated for 2019!)

Let’s face it:

Bouldering is a blast, but sometimes it can feel like you just aren’t progressing.

No progress = no fun. 🙁

If you’re looking to take your bouldering to the next level (and who isn’t?) then structured bouldering training is a must.

If you’re like most climbers, though, your training plan currently involves just two steps:

Show up to the climbing gym
Climb

Don’t worry if that’s you (and let’s be honest, that’s definitely you).

This guide contains the information you need to properly train for bouldering. From injury prevention to hangboarding to climbing nutrition, you’ll learn it all.

CHAPTERS

Injury Prevention On-The-Wall Workouts Off-The-Wall Workouts Hangboarding Bouldering Gear Climbing Nutrition Training Advice from the Pros

CHAPTER 1

How to Prevent Injuries So You Can Always Be Bouldering

Whether you’re new to bouldering or projecting V10s, you could probably learn more about preventing injuries.

We’ve made injury prevention Chapter 1 since it is truly that important. In this chapter you’ll learn simple steps for limiting preventable injuries. That way, you’ll never have to take an extended period of time off from bouldering.

CHAPTER 2

On-The-Wall Exercises That Will Make You a Better Boulderer

Get ready for a surprise:

Believe it or not, one of the best ways to train for bouldering is to… boulder.

Rather than climbing whatever your heart desires, though, you can do structured exercises that will help you develop technique, build strength, and more.

Check out this chapter’s resources below to learn what they are.

CHAPTER 3

Off-The-Wall Workouts to Complement Your Bouldering Training

Off-the-wall workouts likely won’t be your main form of training, but they will complement your other training efforts exceptionally well.

This is where you get the chance to work your core and become a pull-up master. The strength, power, and endurance you develop off the wall can help you progress to the next level.

CHAPTER 4

How to Use Hangboarding to Build Crazy Amounts of Finger Strength

Need more finger strength? Hangboarding can help you develop it.

It can be tough to know how to incorporate hangboarding into your training routine, though. Despite the name, you don’t want to use it to simply hang. You want your efforts to be more targeted.

Educate yourself with the materials below to avoid common mistakes and get ideas for hangboard routines.

CHAPTER 5

How to Pick the Right Bouldering Gear So You Can Crush at Your Full Potential

Don’t let your gear hold you back.

Learn about the best bouldering gear available today so you can get the equipment that will help you climb at your best. Shoes are easily the most important piece of gear in your arsenal, but we’ve also included resources on chalk, hangboards, and crash pads.

CHAPTER 6

Lose Weight and Build Muscle More Easily with Proper Climbing Nutrition

Your optimal climbing weight is a delicate balance. You need to be muscular enough to do all the necessary moves but light enough to not weigh yourself down too much.

The key to striking that balance? Nutrition.

The resources in this chapter deal directly with what, how, and when climbers need to eat perform at their best.

CHAPTER 7

Training Advice from the Best Climbers in the World

You know who might know a thing or two about bouldering training?

The best climbers in the world, I reckon.

Luckily, top climbers have been asked about and have offered up their training recommendations. If you want a glimpse into how the pros train, the resources in this final chapter are for you.

Take all their advice with a grain of salt, though. They are the best in the world and training exactly as they train is likely too much for us mere mortals.

Photo Credit: Zlatko Najdenovski