Periodically, belay devices come along that change climbing the way the iPhone changed cell phones.

The Sticht Plate was one. Named after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device was a precursor of the tube-style belay devices we still use today. The most popular modern tube-style device is the Black Diamond ATC (in its various forms), which will make up half our test.

In the late 1980s, Petzl assembled a team of expert climbers and started fiddling around with belay devices. The goal was to create a safer descent device than the venerable figure eight, ideally something “as trustworthy as a seatbelt.”

The GriGri, released in 1991 and named after an African good luck charm, was a revolutionary moment — a belay device with a cam that would actively lock during a fall. The GriGri is now a household name among climbers, and it’s the second half of our test.

For many climbers, the question remains: which belay device should I use? Is a GriGri worth the investment? Can I get by with a single belay device? Which one should I get first? As is often the case, the answer is…it depends.

To put these devices to the test so I could shed insight on these questions, I climbed up all kinds of single pitch and multipitch climbs, indoor and outdoor, trad and sport, long and short. Here are the conclusions.

(You can also compare the GriGri and ATC to other top belay devices in our belay device buying guide.)

Assisted Braking: What it Gets You

What you’re paying for when you buy a GriGri is assisted braking, that is, the ability to lock down on the rope without constant tension from the belayer. This is useful for several reasons.

1. It’s Safer

The first of these is safety. Especially when climbing outside, some variables are beyond control. In rare circumstances (like rockfall) something could happen to the belayer, and a GriGri will still catch a fall.

I had a friend get a concussion after getting yanked into a roof on a belay (yes, he wears a climbing helmet now), and if he hadn’t been using a GriGri, his climber would have dropped. Because of the camming mechanism, the GriGri also helps mitigate the risk of a belayer somehow losing grip on the brake strand.

It should be mentioned that the GriGri creates other possible risks — feeding slack to a leader sometimes requires a gentle push on the camming mechanism, and if the thumb is left in place, the device will not lock. Ashima Shiraishi was once dropped this way.

2. Belayers Can Relax a Little More

Secondly, the GriGri allows belayers to relax a little more while a climber hangs. The brake strand should never go unattended, but with the cam holding the load, the belayer needn’t keep tension in the way that an ATC requires. When you’re hangdogging up and down your project because you swear your new beta will work, your belayer will thank you.

3. It’s Easier to Manage Descents

And thirdly, being able to conveniently manage descents can be useful. When rapping a fixed line or routesetting, for instance, GriGris can provide a convenient way to pause your progress while reducing risk and fatigue.

The uses for GriGris are not limited to these. Climbers use GriGris in all kinds of systems, from soloing to simulclimbing. Understanding and managing risk is paramount as usual, but the GriGri is an exceptionally versatile device.

The Loyal ATC

Several important factors weigh in favor of the ATC.

Competently used, there are few things the ATC cannot do. Sure, a GriGri may sometimes be more convenient, but in most cases, an ATC can do the job just fine.

What’s more, the ATC has one critical ability that the GriGri does not: double rope rappels. For all its many uses, the GriGri cannot accommodate more than one strand of rope. Given that double-rope rappels are the default method of descent in many cases, this is a considerable limitation.

And finally, ATCs retain a significant weight advantage over the GriGri. The GriGri 2 is an improvement on the original in this regard, but for alpinists and climbers who prefer a light rack, the ATC still wins out.

The ATC is like your favorite pair of jeans: it’s not always flashy, and there are occasionally better options, but it will never let you down.

Best Uses

Based on the above advantages and disadvantages, the best uses of each device quickly sort themselves out.

For climbers who do a lot of lead climbing or spend a lot of time outside (especially if you’re projecting, establishing routes, etc.), GriGris are often worth the investment. They’re safe, versatile, and powerful.

ATCs still have a place in almost every climber’s pack, and if you’re doing mostly gym or multipitch climbing, they’re likely all you’ll ever need. Learn to love it, use it well, and it will always be there when you need it. If you’re only buying one belay device or you’re buying your first, it’s likely that an ATC is the device for you.

GriGri vs. ATC: Which Is Best for Multipitch Climbing?

Both these devices can be used for multipitch climbing. A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. I know climbers who use both successfully.

In my experience, the ATC-Guide still wins out as a multipitch device based on simplicity and familiarity. Most climbers are accustomed to ATCs, and they remain the default device for longer outings. The weight savings are icing on the cake.

The “Softer Catch” Debate

During these conversations, climbers occasionally bring up the idea that ATCs allow for more rope slippage and therefore give a softer catch. I was unsure if this was truth or urban legend, so I set out to give it a test.

I hooked up both devices one after the other, had a partner climb to the same point on an overhanging sport climb, and caught a fall on both. Each time, I allowed the same amount of slack in the system and marked the point where the rope exited the device with a piece of tape.

The results surprised me. The GriGri allowed only about an inch and a half of rope slippage, while the ATC allowed more than a foot. I asked my climber which catch had felt softer (I didn’t move my body for either), and he confirmed that the fall on the ATC felt slightly softer.

The softness of a catch still depends largely on the belayer, and it’s certainly possible to give soft catches with a GriGri. This test (despite being as precise as I could manage) was also limited in scope and accuracy.

Still, the results are worth bearing in mind: a GriGri will give a slightly harder catch, and may therefore require care in some situations. Given the rope slippage, an ATC will give a softer catch, but it requires an attentive and competent belay.

Device Versions

For the ATC, your choice is fairly straightforward. If you’re not climbing multipitch, snag an ATC-XP (the regular ATC works just fine, but the brake grooves are useful). If you’re climbing multipitch, get an ATC-Guide and don’t look back. Other brands’ versions of this device (Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, etc.) are usually also fine.

Petzl recently released the GriGri +, so the big new question is: do you need one? For most circumstances, the answer is probably no. (You can read our full review of the GriGri + here.)

The GriGri + adds a few nice features, like an anti-panic lock mechanism and a separate toprope setting. These features are mostly useful for guides, beginner users, or those who work with inexperienced climbers often.

If you really want the extra safety features, go for it, but for the majority of users and circumstances, the GriGri 2 is the way to go.

Related Articles

• Petzl GriGri 2 Review: The Best Belay Device?
• Petzl GriGri + Review: Is It Better Than the GriGri 2?
• The Best Belay Devices
• Climbing Gear for Beginners: What You Need Now & What Can Wait

The post GriGri vs. ATC: Which Belay Device Is Right for You? appeared first on 99Boulders.

FrictionLabs hasn’t been around long, but they’ve quickly become one of the biggest names in climbing chalk. They market their product aggressively and keep a roster of pro climbers repping their dust, including names like Alex Puccio, Alex Megos, Margo Hayes, and Nathaniel Coleman. They insist that their chalk is scientifically proven to be the best available, but it’s always been a little unclear if they were just tooting their own horn.

To see if their chalk can walk the walk, we put FrictionLabs’ finest blend up against six other top loose chalks — and we did it blind. We had no idea which chalk was which until we were done with testing. We put every single one through a variety of tests on all kinds of terrain to declare an overall winner.

And…FrictionLabs still came out on top.

To the surprise of the testers, we all picked the FrictionLabs Unicorn Dust as our favorite chalk of the bunch. It’s easy to apply, creates an even coating, and feels secure on the wall.

Consistent with FrictionLabs’ claims, it also didn’t dry out our hands too much, which allowed us to climb longer. It didn’t outscore the competition by a huge margin, and it will cost you dearly, but FrictionLabs does make the best climbing chalk on the market right now.

If you’d like to read more about how the FrictionLabs Unicorn Dust compared to the other chalks we tested, check out our complete article on the best climbing chalks. Or, continue reading for our full review.

What We Like

Coating

Part of what makes the Unicorn Dust such a joy is how easy it is to coat the hands. With some chalks, I felt like I had to grind my fingers a few times or blow off the excess to get a good coating. The FrictionLabs chalk seemed to produce an even coating the most consistently, often with just a single dip or squeeze. That’s reassuring, especially when your forearms are starting to sound the alarm.

Friction Labs also makes a liquid chalk called Secret Stuff that coats well. You can see our review of it in our guide to the best liquid chalk.

Security

The “stickiness” of chalk is an aspect that’s hard to measure. It’s nearly impossible to tell why a hold feels good or bad on a given try.

Was I more pumped or tired? Was I sweatier? Did I waste more time? Or is it the chalk?

Still, on balance we felt that we were slightly more secure, more of the time, when we were using the Unicorn Dust. We found ourselves more frequently reaching the end of routes feeling confident in our traction.

It’s also worth noting how our hands felt after the chalk started to wear through. With some brands we tested, you seem to lose traction immediately after your chalk is gone. But even when the Unicorn Dust was getting thin on our fingers, our skin still felt nicely dry.

Skin Care

The FrictionLabs wasn’t the most comfortable chalk we tested — that honor went to the odd but intriguing Primo Chalk. But the Unicorn Dust did do a remarkable job of keeping our skin happy as well as moisture-free. This can be a difficult balance to strike, and other chalks (ahem, Black Diamond) don’t manage quite so gracefully.

What We Don’t Like

Price

The stratospheric price is, by far, the biggest flaw of FrictionLabs. It’s a great chalk, and it outclassed all the competitors.

But is it worth so much? We remain dubious.

FrictionLabs includes a section in their FAQ entitled “Why does it cost more?” where they explain their high-quality raw materials and USA-based treating process. That’s very cool, and it may be enough for some — it all depends how much great climbing chalk is worth to you.

But when I can snag some Trango Gunpowder (our second-favorite chalk) for well under half the price, the price tag starts to look less appealing.

Container

This is a little nitpicky, but we aren’t the biggest fan of FL’s packaging. Does the shiny, unicorn-printed coffee bag make you feel like you should be writing tasting notes? Yes. Is that entirely a good thing? No.

And what’s more, it’s a little inconvenient — our blind-test administrator said that the Unicorn Dust was “a ***** to open.” The fold-and-hold reseal method isn’t the most secure, either.

Culture

If you use only FrictionLabs chalk, be prepared to catch a little side-eye. FL has a reputation for being overpriced and overmarketed. When you pull out your coffee bag of chalk, some people will assume you’re that guy who wears Arc’teryx shorts and carries a case for his bouldering brush. The old-school trad warriors at your gym will almost certainly cast disapproving glances. Be prepared.

Best Uses

The Unicorn Dust excels in any scenario you would want chalk. It’s great on longer routes and effective when you’re bouldering. It still has some small chunks in it, so you’re free to grab one and tick up your project (just make sure you brush it off when you’re done, or else the previous note on reputation will doubly apply).

Value

FrictionLabs doesn’t provide great value. We did find ourselves using slightly less chalk with the Unicorn Dust, but the difference was minimal, and almost certainly not enough to make up for the price.

The Unicorn Dust is the best chalk around, but it comes at a premium. Whether or not it’s worth it is down to how much you value your chalk and your dollar.

How the FrictionLabs Unicorn Dust Performed in Our Testing

We scored our chalk on three categories through a variety of individual and group testing phases.

Application

This is an area where the FrictionLabs shines. It’s incredibly easy and intuitive to get an even coating. The Unicorn Dust is on the powdery side, but it has a few chunks mixed in for you to squeeze. It’s a good mix, and it’s a joy to use.

Security

The FrictionLabs was among the most secure chalks we tested. It felt dry and sticky, even when we were reaching the end of longer routes.

Comfort

The Unicorn Dust wasn’t the most comfortable chalk in our test, but it was one of the better entrants. It maintains a nice balance of dryness without cracking or damaging skin. We felt content and confident while we were using it.

Product Specs

• Amounts available: 2.5 oz, 5 oz, 10 oz
• Texture: Mix/Powder (chunkier textures available)

The Bottom Line

FrictionLabs Unicorn Dust came out swinging in our test, and we picked it as our favorite even when we had no idea what it was. It’s a great climbing chalk — easy to apply, but secure and comfortable on the skin. If I were a pro athlete, this is the chalk I would want to sponsor me.

But I’m not a pro athlete, I’m a writer, and I still have to think twice about getting guacamole on my Chipotle. That means that FrictionLabs’ pricing is on the stiff side for my taste.

The competition isn’t quite as polished, but there are still good options — our runner-up and Best Value pick, Trango Gunpowder, is a particularly strong performer at a much lower price.

If having the best product available is important to you, pick up some FL and don’t look back (maybe try to find it on sale). We were always happy while we were using it. If you’d like better value, then head over to our chalk roundup to find our other favorites.

FrictionLabs Climbing Chalk – Amazon FrictionLabs Climbing Chalk – REI

The post FrictionLabs Chalk Review: Is It Worth the High Price? appeared first on 99Boulders.

Model

La Sportiva Katana Lace

La Sportiva Miura

Image

Best Uses

All-around climbing, vertical and overhung face climbing, crack climbing

All-around climbing, sport climbing, crack climbing

Sizing

0.5-1 sizes smaller than your street shoe size (in US Men’s sizes)

1-1.5 sizes smaller than your street shoe size (in US Men’s sizes)

Fit

Normal-width feet, low-volume heels

Narrow feet

Pros

Edging, smearing, crack climbing, well-rounded climbing shoe

Edging, crack climbing, well-rounded climbing shoe, comfortable given its aggressive build

Cons

Toe hooking, pockets

Laces not durable

Rubber

Vibram XS Edge

Vibram XS Edge

Upper

Leather and Lorica (synthetic leather)

Leather

Full Review

La Sportiva Katana Lace review

La Sportiva Miura review

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View at REI

View at REI

The Katana Lace and Miura are two powerhouse climbing shoes made by La Sportiva. They both are high-performance lace-ups with similar designs and functions so it can be easy to wonder how they compare when reviewed side by side.

Here is that very comparison. We’ve determined that they are made for different types of feet (more on that here) and certain design features make them perform slightly better or worse at certain types of climbing (more on that here). However, the Katana Lace and Miura are each amazing shoes so it’d be hard to conclude that one is overall better than the other.

Before going down the rabbit hole of this comparison, keep in mind when reading this that the Katana Lace and the Miura are both great climbing shoes, and either would be a solid choice for your next pair.

Katana Lace or Miura: Which One Is Right for You?

After conducting in-depth reviews of both of these shoes and then researching the differences between them, here are our recommendations for which shoe to get:

• Best for narrow feet: Miura
• Best for normal-width feet: Katana Lace
• Best for low-volume heels: Katana Lace
• Best for all-around climbing: Either one

Do none of the situations above apply to you? Then either the Miura or the Katana Lace would likely work just fine since both are exceptional climbing shoes.

Or, if you think neither of these shoes are right for you, check out some of our other popular climbing shoe buying guides:

• Beginner climbing shoes
• Climbing shoes for wide feet
• All-around climbing shoes

Sizing

Both shoes stretch but the Katana Lace stretches less than the Miura since it has some synthetic leather in it. For a performance fit, we recommend you get the Katana Lace 0.5-1 sizes below your street shoe size or the Miura 1-1.5 sizes below your street shoe size (in US Men’s sizes).

For more sizing help, you can read the reviews posted by others on REI to see what sizes they got:

• Katana Lace reviews
• Miura reviews

Similarities

The La Sportiva Katana Lace and La Sportiva Miura are incredibly similar climbing shoes. In terms of performance, they are both all-around shoes that could easily be the only pair you own. They edge, smear, and hook as well as any climbing shoes on the market.

Both are great for vertical sport climbing and crack climbing and good (but not the best) at super steep bouldering. The Katana Lace, due to its P3 Midsole (discussed below), is arguably slightly better for climbing overhung terrain. Alternatively, the Miura is arguably slightly better for multi-pitch routes and pure vertical climbing since it is more comfortable.

They look quite similar, have similar lacing systems, and come with the same rubber (Vibram XS Edge). Both are rated exceptionally well by everyone who reviews them (including us) and you can’t go wrong picking either as your next pair of climbing shoes.

Differences

Given their similarities, you have to dig deeply to find differences between these two shoes. We dug, very deeply, and learned that the main differences are which types of feet these shoes fit best and the presence of something called a P3 Midsole. These differences combine to make the shoes perform slightly differently at certain types of climbing.

Fit

The Miura is designed to fit narrow feet well. The Katana Lace, on the other hand, is designed to fit all types of feet well. So, if you have a narrow foot, go for the Miura. If you have a normal-width foot, go for the Katana Lace.

Additionally, the Katana Lace has a low-volume heel which means it fits people best who have smaller heels. If you have had issues in the past with your heel slipping out of your climbing shoes while heel hooking (or in general), then you probably have a low-volume heel and the Katana Lace will fit your foot well.

Lastly, the Miura has a narrower toe box which makes it better for jamming into pockets.

P3 Midsole

The P3 Midsole, present in the Katana Lace but not in the Miura, is a climbing shoe technology that maintains the shoe’s downturn over the course of its life. (P3 stands for Permanent Power Platform.)

Since the Miura doesn’t have the P3 Midsole, it loses some of its downturn over the course of its life. Out of the box the Miura is more downturned than the Katana Lace, but as you wear it its downturn decreases and the shoe becomes flatter.

Meanwhile, the Katana Lace has the P3 Midsole so it keeps its downturn over the course of its life. Despite how flat it looks in the product photo above, the Katana Lace is a decently aggressive climbing shoe, and it ends up being more downturned than the Miura once the Miura has flattened out, making it slightly better-suited for overhung terrain.

Here are the downturns of both shoes, side by side. The Katana Lace is on the left and the Miura is on the right. Both shoes have been broken in already.

Types of Climbing

The presence of the P3 Midsole makes the Katana Lace arguably slightly better for bouldering and steep and overhung climbing.

The Miura’s narrow toe box makes it better for jamming into pockets.

The Miura loses some of its downturn once broken in and becomes less downturned and more comfortable than the Katana Lace. For these reasons, it is arguably better at multi-pitch routes and pure vertical climbing.

I don’t mean to make it seem like the Miura loses its entire downturn and becomes a slipper-like climbing shoe, because it doesn’t. As you can see from the picture above, it still has a downturn even after it breaks in. The downturn is just not as extreme as when you first put on your Miuras, and this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Many climbers enjoy the comfort that comes with the break-in.

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April Fools Day means looking forward to a few things — toothpaste in Oreos, air horns behind doors, and Black Diamond’s yearly video. The company has a history of coming up with joke products with prank introduction videos.

But last year the prank became reality. Black Diamond (and their favorite actor, Mr. Honnold) released the Hot Forge Heated Chalk Bag. The concept is simple: combine a chalk bag and an electric hand warmer. Kiss numb fingers goodbye.

As a climber with a mild case of the circulation-inhibiting Raynaud’s Syndrome, this is a cause near and dear to my heart. If a chalk bag could save me from resuscitating my fingers on cool fall days, it would be a game changer.

But given the Hot Forge’s price and the wide availability of both good chalk bags and hand warmers, we weren’t sure if the Hot Forge could live up to the hype. So we tested it to find out.

Compare the Hot Forge Heated Chalk Bag to Top Chalk Bags

If you’d like to read more about how the Hot Forge bag compared to the other chalk bags we tested, check out our chalk bag reviews. Or keep reading for our full Hot Forge Heated Chalk Bag review.

What We Like

Heating

I had one big question when I got this bag: does the heating actually work?

The short answer is yes. The Hot Forge bag has a heating element at the front of the bag — the place that the undersides of your fingers land when you reach for chalk. The element extends into the bag like a tongue, so you can wrap your fingers all the way around it.

And it gets hot. The Hot Forge has three settings (green, yellow, and red) that correspond to different intensities. Even on the lowest setting, the heat glow is immediately noticeable.

On crisp days, this bag took my hands from the edge of numbness to comfortably warm. In my experience, the Hot Forge is more effective than a conventional hand warmer tossed into a bag.

And on the highest setting, the bag puts out some serious heat. It couldn’t stave off numbness on the coldest mornings, but it makes a real difference. That’s enough for me.

It’s Still a Good Chalk Bag

All that heat doesn’t do much good if the Hot Forge can’t do what every good chalk bag does — hold climbing chalk.

But it does so admirably. The opening is wide, all the components work well together, and the chalk well is deep enough to hold lots of chalk. The heating element quickly becomes coated, which means you can chalk up while you warm your fingers.

The closure system is a simple drawstring. It’s not the best drawstring we’ve used, and it’s not as sophisticated as fancier closures like the Arc’teryx Aperture, but it gets the job done. A simple plastic bag can corral any chalk leakage in your climbing pack.

The outside of the Hot Forge is built into a series of baffles with synthetic insulation. I had no way to test how well the insulation traps heat, but it proved durable enough for hard use in my testing. It looks cool, too.

Easy to Use

Charging and using a heated chalk bag could be finicky, but the Hot Forge isn’t. Everything is intuitive and thoughtfully designed.

The rear zip pocket contains the batteries. They plug into a small cord that runs to the heating element. When unplugged, the batteries can be charged by plugging the provided charger into the same socket.

Heat settings are controlled by a single button on the front of the bag. Hold down for on, press to change the intensity, and hold again to power down. The button glows green, yellow, or red depending on the setting.

It’s about as easy a system as I can imagine. The bag never turned on accidentally in my pack, and I could even adjust the heat mid-climb if necessary. For such a complex product, this one is impressively simple.

What We Don’t Like

Charging a Chalk Bag

As simple as the Hot Forge is, it’s much more complicated than a conventional chalk bag. I did forget to charge the Hot Forge before an outing more than once, and the battery and charger wouldn’t be hard to misplace.

The battery life of the Hot Forge isn’t perfect, either. BD lists the estimated runtimes by setting: 6-8 hours on low, 4-6 hours on medium, or 2 hours on high. I didn’t get to put those numbers on a timer, but especially on the highest setting in bitter cold weather, I found the Hot Forge could lose juice quickly.

Even a sport-climbing burn can take upwards of 20 minutes, which allows only a few runs on high. If you’re headed out for two or more days, battery conservation becomes a priority.

The lower settings still put out a decent amount of heat, so this may only be an issue in harsh conditions (or for those of us with truly poor circulation). All the same, the Hot Forge is yet another device to remember to charge before trips.

…Still Need More Heat

Although the Hot Forge makes a real difference on the wall, it wasn’t quite the game changer I hoped for. This is likely down to physics more than a failing of the product, but it’s worth noting.

When my fingers did numb out on cold days, the Hot Forge wasn’t always much help. There seemed to be some kind of threshold where the bag could no longer keep the cold at bay.

Where that threshold lies depends on a variety of conditions, but on the coldest days I found myself wishing for a higher setting. Add in the need to conserve battery, and the Hot Forge’s use can become limited.

This was only a problem on wintry days of ~40 degrees or under, when my hands would normally be bricks of ice. The Hot Forge still helps, but can’t work miracles. When temperatures drop, some suffering will still be involved.

The Price

Considering the limitations of size and use, the above concerns are relatively minor. Charging the batteries is a small price to pay for how well the Hot Forge functions, and it remains helpful over a wide range of temperatures.

The bigger obstacle for many climbers is price. The Hot Forge costs about as much as a pack of quickdraws and well more than just about any other bag on the market. Given the unique nature of the product, that’s understandable. But is it worth the money?

Conventional hand warmers are relatively cheap. Putting one or two inside your chalk bag on chilly days will have a similar effect to the Hot Forge, albeit weaker. If cold hands aren’t a severe problem for you, a hand warmer now and then might be sufficient.

Climbers with chronically cold hands may be more willing to consider the investment. I’ve used the Hot Forge for months, and so far I’ve seen nothing to make me doubt the bag’s durability. As long as it lasts seasons of reliable warmth, the price of the Hot Forge looks more appealing.

Best Uses

The Hot Forge is best suited to climbers with chilly fingers who are willing to invest in a long-term solution.

It works best on shoulder-season days. This bag won’t save you in the middle of winter, but on crisp fall days it can be the difference between suffering and sending.

The Hot Forge is best on short trips or when a power source is readily available. If you’re climbing more than two days in a row in the cold, battery life will likely be an issue. And don’t forget that the cold saps battery life from devices.

Value

For many climbers, the Hot Forge may not be superb value. It’s a bag that only comes into its own in certain weather, and it comes with a premium price tag and some added inconvenience. If you can get by with conventional hand warmers, there’s no need to upgrade to the Hot Forge.

But I’ve never regretted snagging this bag after the April Fool’s Day release. Numb fingers are a major problem for me, especially on days when the friction is best. The Hot Forge is a welcome quality-of-life upgrade, and I’m glad to have it around.

How the Hot Forge Chalk Bag Performed in Our Testing

Poof Test

I filled the Hot Forge up with chalk, cinched it as tightly as I could, and gave it a squeeze to see how much chalk would escape.

The closure came in the middle of the pack. Some chalk did escape, but it’s a reasonably effective drawstring.

Field Testing

The Hot Forge is primarily useful outside, so I took it out for some cold days sport climbing and bouldering. I climbed with the Hot Forge in temperatures ranging from the high 30s to low 70s, experimenting with different settings and recording my findings. I assessed the Hot Forge for its heating capabilities as well as its performance as a regular chalk bag.

Product Specs

• Pockets: Rear Zip (battery pocket)
• Shape: Taper
• Closure: Drawstring
• Weight: 175g (with battery), 92g (without battery)

The Bottom Line

Will the Black Diamond Hot Forge Heated Chalk Bag solve all your winter climbing woes? No, it won’t.

But it goes a surprisingly long way. When the send temps come around this fall, you can bet that the Hot Forge will be going to the crag with me. It’s pricier than a regular chalk bag, but for climbers who regularly struggle with numbness, it may be worth it.

Shop Black Diamond Hot Forge Heated Chalk Bag

The post Black Diamond Heated Chalk Bag Review: Is It Worth It? appeared first on 99Boulders.

The Katana Lace by La Sportiva is a well-rounded shoe that excels at almost all types of climbing. It is the only shoe our reviewer, Matt, owns, and he lead climbs, trad climbs, and boulders in them. This shoe is ideal for anyone looking for a high-performance climbing shoe that they can wear for every type of climbing they do — whether it be bouldering, crack climbing, or vertical and overhung face climbing.

If you’re looking for an all-around climbing shoe, check out our list of the best all-around climbing shoes. Or, you can compare the Katana Lace to the best climbing shoes.

The shoe’s slight downturn, asymmetrical toe box, and sticky rubber make it great at edging and smearing. It fits best on people with low-volume heels and we recommend you get your pair 0.5-1 sizes below your street shoe size (in US sizes) in order to maximize the edging capability of the Katana Lace.

If you want an all-around high-performance shoe, have a low-volume heel, and prefer the customization that laces afford, then this shoe will be perfect for you.

Interested? Click here to buy it at Backcountry.com.

Product Specs

• Weight: 8.71 oz / 247 g
• Last: PD 55
• Fit: Tech Fit w/ Medium Asymmetry
• Construction: Slip Lasted Tube Construction
• Upper: Leather / Lorica©
• Lining: Pacific (forefoot and back)
• Midsole: 1.1 mm full-length LaspoFlex with P3©
• Sole: 4 mm Vibram© XS Edge
• Sizes: 33-46 (half sizes)
• Color: Black & Yellow

RUBBER
The Vibram© XS Edge rubber is a sticky rubber with surprising durability. Our reviewer owned his first pair of Katana Laces for one and a half years and didn’t get them resoled during that entire time. The rubber is sticky enough to smear and edge on microholds and stiff enough that our reviewer feels comfortable pushing off of his pinky toe when edging.

The rubber on our reviewer’s second pair of shoes has held up well even after a year of consistent climbing:

Performance

EDGING (5 / 5)
The Katana Lace edges incredibly well. Matt, our reviewer, has owned the original Katana and the Miura VS (both by La Sportiva) and believes the Katana Lace is the best edging shoe he has ever worn.

You’ll feel confident putting your feet on the tiniest of nubs while wearing these shoes — it doesn’t matter if you’re face climbing or bouldering. Our reviewer was able to send his first outdoor V5 (6C/6C+), Governing Dynamics, in these shoes — a problem whose crux is described on Mountain Project as “finding feet on the blank overhang”.

The shoe comes with Vibram© XS Edge rubber, which is designed to be great at edging and is stiffened with a P3© Midsole which helps the shoe retain its shape over the course of its life. The toe box is asymmetrical which directs power to the tip of your big toe and makes you feel comfortable placing your weight anywhere on your toe box — from big toe or pinky toe.

POCKETS (3.5 / 5)
The Katana Lace is not as downturned as something like the La Sportiva Solution (a shoe designed specifically for bouldering), so you won’t be able to jam your toes into pockets as well as you could with a highly aggressive bouldering shoe.

You will feel comfortable using pockets as footholds while wearing this shoe, but relative to other shoes on the market this isn’t the top shoe for that type of foothold, hence the rating.

HEEL HOOKING (4.5 / 5)
If you have had issues with your heels popping out of shoes while heel hooking, this shoe is for you. Our reviewer had that very problem with the Miura VS and original Katana (he would sometimes even tape his shoe to his foot so his heel would stay put). However, he has not had this issue while wearing the Katana Lace. He decided to switch to the Katana Lace mainly because of the fit of the heel.

After further research, we learned that the Katana Lace has a low-volume heel (which basically means it is designed for people with small heels — literally, heels that take up less volume). If you have had issues with your heel slipping out of shoes in the past, then you probably have a low-volume heel and this shoe is definitely for you. The laces will let you tighten the shoe for an ideal fit and you’ll be able to place a precise heel hook every time.

The only minor issue we had with the heel is that it could be a little more sensitive and allow you to feel the hold better with your heel. Nonetheless, this shoe sticks hard to holds while heel hooking and cups your heel for an incredible fit. There is also a rubber “band” of sorts that encircles the heel and hugs it nice and tightly.

TOE HOOKING (3.5 / 5)
The shoe’s design makes us think it was intended for face climbing first and bouldering second, and accordingly, the Katana Lace‘s toe hooking abilities are mediocre. It is by no means bad at toe hooking, it’s just not the best, either.

Your toes don’t get beat up when pulling a toe hook, but some reviewers online have said that they would like to see a thicker rubber patch over the toes.

SENSITIVITY (5 / 5)
The Vibram© XS Edge rubber is a great mixture of sensitivity and stiffness. The shoe feels like an extension of your foot and allows you to feel exactly where your toes are on the rock. This level of sensitivity will allow you to know where your toes are while cranking hard on a foothold, even if the foothold is tiny.

PRECISION (5 / 5)
The Katana Lace is built for precision. The shoe’s slight downturn and asymmetrical toe box help you place your feet exactly where you want.

SMEARING (5 / 5)
This shoe is great at smearing. The rubber works well for smearing and your feet feel like they can stick to anything while wearing these shoes. Our feels confident smearing outside and he trusts that his feet will stay put while smearing.

The stickiness of the rubber holds up well even after a while of use. Our reviewer feels like his shoes smear as well now as they did on the first day out of the box.

CRACKS (4.5 / 5)
The narrow toe box of the Katana Lace makes it easy to jam your toes into thin cracks. Laces are usually a must for a good crack climbing shoe and the laces on this shoe are durable and capable of withstanding the beating of cracks. The shoes are pliable enough to torque when they need to and stiff enough to protect your feet.

Sizing/Fit

After our review of the La Sportiva Katana Lace, we recommend you purchase your pair 0.5-1 sizes below your street shoe size (in US sizes). The shoe will have a break-in period of a few weeks during which it will stretch a bit since it is made out of leather.

One thing to note is that if you don’t get it your Katana Laces tight enough, as they stretch they will loosen up around your toe box and thus lose some of their edging ability.

As for fit, our reviewer has a low-volume heel and his heel fits great in this shoe. People with high-volume heels might have an issue with how the heel cup fits and have trouble heel hooking in it.

Also, our reviewer has narrow feet and the shoes width is snug for him. People with wide feet might have trouble wearing these shoes.

Durability

Our reviewer has had no durability issues with both his pairs of Katana Laces besides those that come form the normal wear of climbing. He owned his first pair of Katana Laces for 1.5 years and never had to get them resoled. During that entire time the laces held up well, the sole maintained its stiffness and stickiness, and the toe box continued to edge precisely.

Comfort

Depending on how you size these shoes, they can either be comfortable or a little tight. We recommend you get the shoes tight so you don’t lose edging ability. For our reviewer, his shoes are a little tight so he can wear them for about a pitch of climbing or 20 minutes of bouldering before he wants to take them off or untie them.

If you do size these shoes tight your toes might start to hurt after a little while of climbing which is pretty normal for aggressive climbing shoes. However, the shoe is built with a padded tongue which will keep the rest of your foot feeling comfortable.

Smell

Our reviewer has had some smell issues with this shoe, but is able to manage the smell with some effort. When he first got the shoes he used to put baby powder in them to capture some of the moisture which helped to lessen the smell.

These shoes will smell about as bad as you let them, and probably not worse than any other leather climbing shoe out there. They are made of leather so they are more breathable than synthetic shoes.

Design

In typical La Sportia fashion, the Katana Laces are made of black leather mixed with some zig-zagging yellow lines. There is no other color on them. One reviewer even said the design looks like Charlie Brown’s shirt. If you a more glamorous comparison, they could possibly be compared to a yellow Lamborghini.

All we know is that you’ll be able to sing Wiz Khalifa’s Black & Yellow whenever you pull them out of your gym bag — “Uh huh, you know what it is…”

Video Review

Final Thoughts

The Katana Lace by La Sportiva is an edging machine that retains this ability no matter the type or steepness of the climb. It rocks at smearing, too, even though it is an aggressive shoe. We recommend it to any climber looking for a high-performance, all-around climbing shoe. It’ll fit you best if you have a low-volume heel and you’ll love it even more if you prefer laces to Velcro straps. It can easily be the only pair of climbing shoes you use.

Don’t get it exclusively for bouldering, but know this shoe packs a lot of bouldering horsepower. Super overhung footholds and pockets might test this shoe’s limits, but it will excel on anything else you can throw at it.

But, once again, the fit of the heel will be important as to whether this shoe works for you or not. If you know you have a low-volume heel, feel confident because this shoe is designed for you. If you don’t know what kind of heel you have, then we recommend trying them on in real life before purchasing them online.

Vs. Other Climbing Shoes

The Katana Lace’s name purposely contains the word “Lace” because La Sportiva also makes the Katana which comes with Velcro straps. However, although these shoes bear a similar name, they aren’t the exactly the same. A better comparison is the La Sportiva Miura VS which is like a Velcro version of the Katana Lace (witha slightly larger toe box and a higher-volume heel).

This review was conducted by an infrequent contributor to the site.

The post La Sportiva Katana Lace Review (With Video!) appeared first on 99Boulders.

The shape of the Black Diamond GridLock is unique and innovative, and it works well as an anti-crossloading aid.

Unfortunately, the carabiner isn’t able to overcome the inconvenience of its opening and locking mechanisms, especially in the Magnetron form that we tested.

That’s before you factor in the GridLock’s stratospheric price. If you’d like the safest possible belay carabiner, this would be a good candidate, but in our opinion the sacrifices are too hefty to make the GridLock worth it.

If you’d like to read more about how the GridLock Magnetron compared to the other locking carabiners we tested, check out our article on the best locking carabiners.

What We Like

Safety

The GridLock is one of the most foolproof carabiners on the market. Its anti-crossloading mechanism is effective and understandable, and the carabiner can be configured in either direction (depending on what device you’re using). The auto-locking Magnetron system also means that there’s zero chance of forgetting to lock the ‘biner. Those features make for a belay package that’s a little more airtight than most, although there’s still no substitute for vigilance.

Shape

The shape of the GridLock is creative and effective. A small tab crosses the carabiner at the base of the gate, which is what prevents the GridLock from crossloading. In order to make the ‘biner narrow enough, the spine tapers down quickly while leaving a wide basket. Everything still feels easy and usable in your hand, and the basket remains wide enough to accommodate knots like the Munter hitch. Even though it performed poorly relative to other locking ‘biners we tested (ranking 11th out of 12), it’s a clever piece of engineering.

Design

Despite their eventual clumsiness, the design features of this carabiner are pretty neat. If nothing else, having tiny magnets lock your carabiner for you makes you feel like a cool kid when you put your partner on belay. Integrating the anti-crossloading tab with the gate is also a more intuitive design than some other systems I’ve seen, though it comes with its own set of drawbacks.

What We Don’t Like

The Process

In order to set up a belay on this carabiner, you begin by opening the gate to clip the device to your belay loop. To allow your belay loop to pass the gate, you have to allow the gate to close. You then have to open the gate a second time so that the anti-crossloading tab moves aside, at which point you can position your belay loop, close the carabiner, and have your partner on belay.

The whole process takes about as long to perform as it takes to read, and it’s a noticeable difference. “It’s too irritating and too many steps to get it fully loaded,” said one tester of the GridLock. When you’re trying to be efficient about your belays, this is a real setback.

Versatility

If you’re patient enough to set it up, the GridLock is a capable belay ‘biner. But if you’re hoping to use it for anything else, think again. The anti-crossloading tab makes it a pain for any other task. This is no surprise — even Black Diamond’s site admits that the GridLock is “designed specifically for belaying.” If you only plan to use the GridLock as a safe belay option, that’s fine. But if you prefer to have some adaptability, the GridLock is not for you.

Clumsiness

The same features that make the GridLock so safe also make it a clunkier at times. If you need to carry a belay device up a multipitch, the GridLock will be fussy on your gear loops. If you’re wearing climbing gloves, the Magnetron system is tricky to operate. If you need to set up a belay in a hurry, the tab is going to get hung up at the worst time.

One tester even found that the tab would occasionally pinch her belay loop when she tried to remove the carabiner, which made it even harder to open. Again, if the GridLock is confined to gym duty, this might not be a dealbreaker. Otherwise, it’s aggravating.

Best Uses

If you’re looking for an extremely safe carabiner to be your dedicated belay carabiner (especially in the gym), and you’re willing to sacrifice some convenience, then the GridLock could be a good option. You should be prepared to lose some time fiddling, but smooth operation will probably improve with experience. I personally don’t like having to modify my belay routine based on carabiner or climbing venue, so I’ll stick to a traditional HMS. For those willing to trade routine for an ironclad belay connection, the GridLock is worth a look.

Value

The GridLock Magnetron is the most expensive carabiner we tested. And it’s a significant price bump, even for safety features as fancy as these. I’m all for risk management, but in this case I don’t think that the GridLock provides a particularly good value. The screwgate version is more reasonable (although still not quite a bargain).

How the GridLock Magnetron Performed in Our Testing

Functionality

The GridLock earned a respectable score in this category due to its belay capability, but it lost points on versatility. It’s very good at its job (once set up), and it has all the bells and whistles. It can’t do much else.

Ease of Use

The GridLock had a mediocre score in this area. The auto-locking mechanism is slick, but overall the carabiner isn’t all that intuitive or easy to use. It’s just clumsy enough to notice, especially when you have to repeatedly open and close it.

Portability

This was another weak point for the Gridlock, which is large and on the heavy side. The anti-crossloading tab doesn’t do it any favors, although it’s still easier to carry than the similar Metolius Gatekeeper.

Product Specs

• Weight: 72g
• Gate Clearance: 21 mm
• Shape: Modified HMS
• Gate-closed Strength: 22 kN

The Bottom Line

The GridLock Magnetron is worth a look if you prefer the safest option, you’re not concerned about convenience, and you’re willing to shell out a few extra dollars. I personally haven’t found crossloading dangerous enough to invest the time or money, and I prefer to check that my carabiners are locked manually. Still, it’s hard to put a price on safety, and some users might find peace of mind in the GridLock’s feature set.

The post Black Diamond GridLock Magnetron Review: Is It Worth It? appeared first on 99Boulders.

Most multipitch climbing packs will set you back a lot of money. If you want to spend some serious dough, you can even find some high-end summit packs to fulfill your hyper-light fantasies.

Luckily, there’s a climbing pack to save the day on the other end of the price spectrum.

Enter the REI Co-op Flash 18, a longtime staple of the multipitch world. The pack was originally designed as a hiking daypack, but climbers quickly caught on and started using the Flash on longer climbs.

It’s oftentimes half the price of other climbing packs, and in many cases it’s all you need. I’ve been using one of these packs for a couple years. Here are my thoughts on the pros and cons.

Note: The Flash has been updated since my generation. The features and style are largely the same, with a couple of minor (mostly aesthetic) differences that I highlight throughout this review. Also, if you’d like to compare this pack to other top options and see our review of the latest-generation Flash, check out our guide to the best climbing packs.

Features

In keeping with both its price-point and style, the Flash stays pretty basic on the features. Still, it has all the essentials.

You get 18 liters of capacity in the form of a simple top-loading sack. Inside, there’s a sleeve for a hydration bladder, a thin pocket holding a removable foam layer, and a small zip pocket at the top for keys and essentials. (On the latest Flash, the zip pocket has been moved to the exterior of the pack for quicker access.)

The closure system is a simple drawcord, with a rigid flap guiding the cords and hiding a small hydration port. There are two sparsely padded backpack straps, complete with a small sternum strap and waist belt. The waist belt is removable, should you desire to go truly minimalist.

On the front are two daisy chains, one of which has a small ice axe loop at the bottom. On the latest gen pack, these have been condensed into a single, beefier daisy. The haul loop has also been raised and simplified on the new Flash, which is a definite improvement.

And that’s pretty much it. The Flash is essentially a padded, kitted-out stuff sack with a couple extra pockets. As it turns out, that’s all you really need.

Size

For me, 18 liters is an excellent volume for climbing. On small multipitch outings, it’s possible to throw everything on your harness, but for anything longer than a few pitches, I like to have a little cargo.

I hate getting dehydrated, and I hate getting hungry, so I like to pack a lot of snacks and water. If you’re out in the mountains, you usually want a layer or two, plus essentials like sunscreen, tape, or a camera. If you’re on a multipitch climb, odds are good you’ll have approach shoes to carry as well. The Flash is the ideal size for a small kit like that.

If it’s a shorter outing and you pack carefully, two climbers can share a single pack (whoever follows gets to carry it).

That said, you’re not going to be able to fit a whole lot of gear inside. The Flash works best carrying water, light day supplies, and not much more. For most of the climbs that I’ve encountered, that’s not an issue — as long as you’re judicious with your packing, 18 liters is versatile enough for most adventures.

Comfort

I find the Flash to be surprisingly comfortable as long as you don’t overload it. With 3 liters of water (like I said, I hate getting thirsty) and day-climb essentials, I find the Flash to be a comfortable carry. The straps are pretty minimal, but they distribute the weight just enough that you don’t really think about it.

As soon as you start to weigh the pack down, that comfort goes away.

I once did a full-day outing with the Flash that included a 70m rope (draped over the top), a light trad rack, enough layers for cold weather, and a full day of food and water. I was able to get everything either in the pack or on the daisies, but by the end of the day my shoulders and back were hurting. The Flash is best when the gear, like the pack, remains light.

Mobility

This is where the Flash really earns its keep.

It’s not easy to make a pack that carries well while you’re climbing. Too wide, and the profile will get in the way of your arms. Too narrow, and you push the load out away from the body, which makes for a disorienting climb. Make the straps too big, and your shoulders will be restricted.

The Flash strikes the ideal balance of cargo and carry. The profile is narrow enough that you hardly notice it when climbing, but it stays close enough to your back that your balance isn’t affected much.

The straps are big enough to distribute the load, but minimal enough that they’re out of your way when you’re reaching to the next hold. The sternum strap is actually surprisingly useful, adding stability and keeping the shoulder straps in place.

The waist belt adds even more, but it can get in the way of a harness, so I often find myself climbing without it and rarely miss it.

Durability

This (along with extra features like rope straps) is where the competitors spent their extra money. The Mountain Hardwear Hueco is made out of 400D nylon, while the Black Diamond Bullet is even burlier at 420D.

The Flash makes do with a much flimsier 140D fabric. The difference is noticeable — the material on the Flash feels thinner and slightly less tear-proof.

For what it’s worth, I’ve been climbing with my Flash for more than two years in some fairly harsh environments, and it has yet to get even a single hole in it. I don’t tend to trash my gear, but I’ve certainly put the pack through the ringer, including dangling it below me through some grovelly granite chimneys.

As long as you’re not using it as a haul bag, the Flash will generally do just fine. Plus, the thin fabric is part of what keeps the pack so light — a full 8 ounces lighter than packs like the Bug or Bullet.

As a disclaimer, a friend of mine did have his Flash develop a (fairly large) hole, but it was because a bear broke into his car and tore it apart. These packs are not bear-proof.

Usability

This is the other area where the Flash excels. Everything on the pack is simple and functional. The closure system is simple and easy, the pockets are all well-designed and well-placed, and the sleeve is perfect for a bladder.

The pack is easy to take on and off, easy to pack, and easy to get things in and out of when it counts. Nothing gets in the way. In a minimalist pack, that’s exactly what counts.

Best Uses

Of course, the Flash is an excellent daypack for most uses. If you’re hiking a fourteener, the Flash will do great. If you’re just biking around town, the Flash is a reliable companion.

But for most climbers, the Flash is an ideal value-buy for a multipitch pack. If you can do without a few bells and whistles, the Flash will be your lightest, cheapest, and often most versatile option. It’s been tested and approved by climbers around the country, and it continues to provide. Plus, for the price, you can get two Flashes for the price of one Patagonia version.

I’ve taken mine up multipitch climbs across the country, on all kinds of rock, in all kinds of weather. Not a single time has it let me down.

Click here to see the REI Co-op Flash 18 on REI.com.

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Y&Y is not the first company to stake their name on belay glasses. As the sport grows, more companies jump on the community’s lust for boutique gear.

But we’re glad Y&Y is around, and their belay glasses are a luxury we can easily recommend investing in. Y&Y’s lineup took home multiple awards in our shootout of the best belay glasses. Even better, their glasses are among the cheapest on the market.

The Classic pair is the most expensive of the Y&Y frames, but we liked them enough to give it our Top Pick award. These are the glasses that testers most consistently ranked among their favorites. Read on to find out why.

If you’d like to read more about how the Y&Y Classics compared to the other belay glasses we tested, check out our article on the best belay glasses. Or keep reading for our full review.

What We Like

Comfort

Not every tester ranked the Classic frames the most comfortable — the Plasfuns fit some faces better. But the Classics were consistently ranked in the top two, which made them the most versatile and widely liked frame.

Helping them along is the adjustability of the stainless steel frame. Just like most conventional eyeglasses, the earpieces, arms, and nosepieces can all be tweaked to individual specifications. For those with asymmetrical heads, this is a blessing.

Comfort turned out to be the main characteristic that separated the glasses in our test. Most of the products are strong performers — after a short learning period, it’s possible to belay efficiently and smoothly with any of them. They all take strain off the neck. But some are far more pleasant to wear, and the Classics were consistently close to the top.

Visibility

The Classic frames also impressed testers with good visibility both through and around the glasses.

This is another key attribute of belay glasses. At the beginning of a route, the climber hasn’t yet climbed high enough to enter the field of vision through the prisms.

Until they do, the belayer must either keep the belay glasses low on the nose (to see over them) or watch from underneath the prisms. Because of the minimalist design, either option is easy with the Classics.

If the climber falls, it’s also critical for the belayer to see the wall in front of them as they’re pulled toward it. Again, the Classics make this easy.

Best of all, the design maintains outward visibility without crippling the view through the prisms. Once the climber is well off the deck, the Classics provide plenty of viewing room for easy belaying. Along with the Plasfuns, testers felt these glasses struck the best balance.

Portability

The case on a pair of glasses might seem like a minor accessory — after all, a case is a case, right? We thought so too but were surprised by how much we appreciated the Classics’ case.

The zipper runs around three sides, with a hinge at the narrow end. At the opposite end is a velcro closure strap. On the inside, accordion-like folds of fabric cradle the glasses and keep the case from opening past 45 degrees or so. At the top of the case, just above the velcro strap, is a small metal D-ring with a (non load-bearing) carabiner attached.

Having both a zipper and velcro seems like overkill, but it allows for quick access and closure without using the zipper. We found this surprisingly handy when moving between climbs.

The dedicated carabiner is far superior to the cheap plastic clips on other cases, and the case design feels both protective and intuitive. It was by far our favorite system.

Fortunately, if you like your current pair of belay glasses but feel your case could be upgraded, Y&Y sells the case as a standalone on Amazon.

What We Don’t Like

We found very little to dislike about these glasses — outside of a few minor niggles, they’re an excellent product.

Adjustability Has Limits

Although the Classics were generally lauded for their comfort, not every tester was satisfied with the design. In particular, the nosepieces were difficult to precisely adjust. For testers with larger heads or wider noses, dialing in the fit was less successful.

Not everyone wants to spend time tweaking the fit on their belay glasses, either. Some testers preferred a one-size-fits-all design like the Y&Y Plasfun. This was a matter of personal preference — some preferred the feel and adjustability of metal frames, while others preferred simple and fixed plastic.

The Plasfun (Basic) Also Exists

Speaking of the Plasfuns, we think the Classic’s biggest competition comes from in-house. The Classic glasses are excellent, but they’re more expensive than the Plasfuns and far more than the Plasfun Basics.

To be fair, the Plasfun Basics come without most accessories and with an inferior case. But for buyers who simply want a good pair of glasses, the Basics work well for a fraction of the price (and, once again, you can buy the Classics’ case separately).

The Plasfun frames were nearly as popular as the Classics, and the regular Plasfun comes with the same carrying system for less money.

The Classic glasses are a great product, but their price may still be a red flag for many. If that means more people buy the Plasfuns or Plasfun Basics, we’re guessing Y&Y won’t be too worried.

Durability Concerns?

To be clear, we had no quality or durability issues with our pair of Classic glasses. That said, we haven’t had the glasses for long enough to comment on their long-term durability.

The glasses do feel well-made, but some reviews on Amazon complain of crooked frames and detaching prisms. The frames feel a little less beefy than other options, although most agreed that the lightness was a virtue.

If you’re not mistreating these glasses they’ll hold up as well as any others. If you know you have a habit of abusing your gear, the concerns may be worth looking into.

Best Uses

Like most belay glasses, the Y&Y Classics thrive during single-pitch cragging. Especially for sport climbing days, the visibility and portability will make the Classics a favorite.

These glasses are light enough that they could be taken along on multi-pitch climbs. We wouldn’t usually recommend taking glasses on multi-pitch outings, but neck pain or strain may be an inhibiting factor for some climbers. If that’s the case, these glasses and their handy case are among the best you’ll find.

Value

When it comes to value, the Y&Y Classic glass are like the rabbit-duck illusion — it depends what you see.

As premium, minimalist, metal-framed belay glasses, they’re decent value. They’re more expensive than the Belay Specs, but less than the Belaggles or the expensive original CU Belay Glasses.

Then again, cheaper solutions do exist, starting with the other offerings from Y&Y themselves. For climbers who don’t need the full treatment, these glasses may seem pricey. For those who need the best, these are an excellent option.

How the Y&Y Classics Performed in Our Testing

Performance

The Y&Y Classics were a top performer. Testers appreciated their visibility, versatility, and ease of use. The thin frames look cool, but they also help keep the glasses out of the way and preserve your vision where it matters.

Comfort

The Classics scored well in this category due to their consistency. For every other frame, at least one tester felt uncomfortable. Not everyone preferred the Classics (though some did), but no one disliked them. We credit the adjustable metal frame and the flexible nosepiece, which worked with a wide range of head shapes.

Portability & Accessories

The Classics come with a plethora of accessories, but we were most impressed by the case. Small details like a dedicated carabiner and a velcro closure make minor but noticeable differences. Features like these help justify the higher price of the frames.

Product Specs

• Weight: 36 g
• Colors: grey, purple, green, red, gold, blue
• Compatibility: sunglasses and prescription glasses via stacking
• Included accessories: case, mini-carabiner, neck retainer, replacement nosepiece

The Bottom Line

The Y&Y Classic glasses are a luxury, but they’re one we were grateful to have. Of the glasses we tested, the Classics were the ones that testers enjoyed the most.

The price means they’re not for everyone — if budget is an issue, we suggest scoping out the Y&Y Plasfun and Y&Y Plasfun Basics, which offer nearly the same quality for much less money. But for those in search of the ideal glasses, these come the closest.

Click for Price – Amazon Click for Price – REI

The post Y&Y Classic Review: The Best Belay Glasses? appeared first on 99Boulders.

The Petzl GriGri 2 is a device so ubiquitous that it scarcely needs introduction. If you’ve climbed anywhere (including the gym), odds are good that you’ve seen one in use. Some swanky gyms prefer them so much that they keep one on every top-rope setup.

We wanted to see if the GriGri 2 was the best belay device on the market, so we put it up against five other top devices in our belay device shootout.

The results back the legacy — the GriGri 2 remains the most capable, versatile, and reassuring belay device on the market.

That’s not to say it doesn’t have flaws, and the competition is getting closer. But for now, the GriGri 2 remains the device we reach for the most, on everything from days at the crag to big walls. It deserves its award as our Top Pick for belay devices.

If you’d like to read more about how the Petzl GriGri 2 compared to the other devices we tested, check out our article on the best belay devices. Or keep reading for our full review.

What We Like

Safety

This is the first reason to buy a GriGri 2. As much as we try to control the risks in climbing, we can’t control them all. Devices that provide extra safeguards can save lives. If something happens to a belayer, an ATC becomes next to useless. A GriGri will still hold a fall.

Let’s be clear here — the GriGri is not a hands-free device. It is even less an excuse for shoddy belay technique.

The GriGri can still be misused and can still drop climbers, even in the hands of experienced belayers. Make sure you learn how to use one properly.

But it does provide an extra layer of safety, and that’s a welcome addition. Because of the assisted braking, catching falls with a GriGri also requires less energy than most tube-style devices.

Not only does that leave less room for user error, it also means that at the end of an epic day you can worry less about your shaky hands.

Versatility

Assisted braking is a blessing on lead belays, but it turns out to be useful in all manner of situations. The GriGri 2 is just as effective belaying from above, and it’s a snap to set up.

One of the best ways to clean a wandering aid pitch uses a jumar and a GriGri. If you fix a rope to rap down a possible new line, you’ll want a GriGri. Need to go hands-free for a second? The GriGri 2 has you covered (and it’s easy to tie a backup knot for insurance).

Plus, safety benefits aside, the GriGri’s assisted braking adds all kinds of convenience to belaying.

When your climber is hanging their way through the crux for the billionth time dialing their beta, the GriGri gives your arms a break from maintaining consistent tension. When they hang at a bolt to visualize their sequence, you can tie a backup knot and have a sip of water. And when they inevitably need to batman back up after a fall, the GriGri makes it easy to take slack and provide counterweight.

All these virtues mean that the GriGri 2 is the device of choice for sport cragging, hard trad climbs, and big walls alike. That’s impressive.

Usability

What’s almost as impressive is that the GriGri 2 manages to make its functionality blend into the background.

At this point, many belay devices on the market claim to match (or exceed) the GriGri 2’s safety and capability. Some of them do (including the GriGri 2’s newer and pricier sibling, the GriGri +), but none can match the GriGri 2’s combination of versatility and usability.

It feeds slack smoothly and catches falls effortlessly. The design is clean and the ergonomics are dialed. There’s still a learning curve, but once the GriGri 2 is a part of your arsenal, it becomes an intuitive and easy companion.

This virtue is what separates the GriGri 2 from the GriGri +. The Plus has even more safety features than the Two, adding an anti-panic lowering feature, improved rope compatibility, and a dedicated top-rope mode.

But the new design and features take away from the intuitive functionality of essential belay features, which is why we still prefer the GriGri 2 in most applications.

(For more on the GriGri +, you can check out our full review.)

What We Don’t Like

Singles Only

Perhaps the biggest reason not to buy a GriGri is its inability to handle more than one strand of rope at a time.

Double rope rappels are out (although you can simul-rap with a partner, if that’s your style). Belaying with two ropes (frequent on trad and ice climbs) is impossible, as is belaying two simultaneous followers. As a result, the GriGri will never completely replace the ATC.

Many multi-pitch climbers stick to an ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso simply to avoid carrying more than one device. Though it lacks assisted braking, the ATC-Guide is a multi-pitch favorite for good reason.

This weakness also opens the door for devices like the Edelrid Mega Jul or Mammut Smart Alpine, which boast both assisted braking and double-rope capability. Though we like the Mega Jul, it has its flaws, and can’t match the GriGri 2’s overall usability.

It’s worth mentioning that the GriGri 2’s rope compatibility is the narrowest of the lot. For most climbers, this will never be an issue — 8.9 mm is plenty skinny, even for lightweight sport ropes.

The GriGri + adds only 0.4 mm of range, though Petzl says the Plus is slightly easier to handle on ropes below 9.4 mm.

The GriGri 2’s range is really only a problem for the masochists climbing ice, but many of them need tube-style devices for double or half ropes anyway.

All that said, the GriGri 2’s tradeoffs are often worth it.

It’s easy to throw an extra ATC on your climbing harness for rappels, and some teams even use combination systems where the first climber rappels with a GriGri and the second with an ATC.

The trouble may be worthwhile — the GriGri 2’s virtues are valuable on long adventurous routes, where hazards may be more present than usual.

Weight

The second knock against the GriGri 2 is weight. At 170 g it’s not quite as beefy as the GriGri +, but it’s still nearly twice the weight of an ATC-Guide (or thrice that of a Mega Jul).

Again, in most cases this is a small price to pay. But the extra weight is noticeable, especially if you still have to carry an ATC for rappels. Light-is-right alpinists may shy away, though many are happy to make the compromise.

Price

The final reason to avoid the GriGri 2 is the price. It’s at the cheaper end of active assisted braking devices, but it’s much more than you’ll pay for a tube-style device.

Given the versatility of devices like the ATC-Guide and Edelrid Mega Jul, we don’t blame some climbers for keeping it simple (the ATC-Guide took home our award for Best Value).

If you can afford it, though, we still think the GriGri 2 is well worth the cash.

Best Uses

In the case of the GriGri 2, it might actually be more efficient to think of venues where this device isn’t a good option.

For mileage at the gym, a beater device like the ATC-XP will work fine for less money. For epic fast-and-light trad missions, subbing in an ATC-Guide or Mega Jul could make more sense. Some ice climbers sometimes find that frozen ropes are less finicky in ATCs than GriGris.

Pretty much everywhere else we can think of, the GriGri 2 is excellent.

Value

The GriGri 2 isn’t cheap, but it’s still a decent value. Other active assisted braking devices (devices with a moving cam, like the Camp Matik) tend to be at least as pricy.

For most users, a GriGri 2 will last a few years with no problems. And because of its popularity, it is almost always on sale at one outlet or another.

Still, an ATC-Guide is significantly cheaper. While we consider the safety and functionality of the GriGri 2 to be well worth the price, many climbers get by just fine with the cheaper option.

How the Petzl GriGri 2 Performed in Our Testing

Function & Safety

The GriGri 2 scored well in this category, exceeded only by the feature-rich GriGri +. All the essential functions of belaying are backed by assisted braking, which is a considerable safety benefit.

It’s still possible to misuse the GriGri 2, but with good habits and proper use, we think accidents are less likely than when using ATCs.

Versatility

Another top score for the GriGri 2, this is a category where it shines. It lost a few points for the lack of double-strand rappel ability, but gets credit for a extra applications like big-wall systems. The GriGri 2 is comfortable in a remarkable number of venues — it’s just about always in our climbing pack.

Ease of Use

This is the category where the GriGri 2 separated itself from competitors like the Mega Jul and GriGri +.

While the GriGri 2 has a slightly steeper learning curve than the Plus, the Two is the device we’d rather use once mastered. And while the Mega Jul comes close to a complete package, it’s clumsy in applications like belaying from above.

No other assisted-braking belay device that we’ve found functions as smoothly as a GriGri 2.

Product Specs

• Rope compatibility: 8.9-11 mm
• Weight: 170 g
• Assisted braking: Yes
• Colors available: gray, yellow, turquoise
• Certifications: CE EN 15151, UIAA
• Petzl guarantee: 3 years

The Bottom Line

The widespread popularity if the GriGri 2 is a testament to its enduring design. The wonderful part is that it plays a role for so many different types of climber.

Sport climbers love it for its convenience. Trad climbers love it for its safety. Big-wall masters love it for its many functions.

The GriGri + made the competition fiercer than ever, but in our eyes the GriGri 2 is still the device to have for most climbers. It’s our favorite belay device, and we bet it will be yours, too.

Shop Petzl GriGri 2 – Amazon Shop Petzl GriGri 2 – REI

The post Petzl GriGri 2 Review: The Best Belay Device? appeared first on 99Boulders.

The La Sportiva Solution and Scarpa Instinct VS are two of the best climbing shoes you can find for bouldering and steep sport climbing. If you’re wondering which shoe to get, you’ve come to the right place. Here we compare the shoes side-by-side and examine their similarities, differences, and more.

Bottom line, the shoes have many similarities but also a handful of differences that interested buyers should be aware of. Read on to see our recommendations on who should get which shoe.

La Sportiva Solution or Scarpa Instinct VS: Which One Is Right for You?

If you’re unsure of whether you should get the Solution or Instinct VS, here are our recommendations based off the differences between the two shoes:

• Best for wider feet: Scarpa Instinct VS (runs a little wider in the toes, but, by Scarpa standards, it is a narrower shoe. For truly wide climbing shoes, here are your best options.)
• Best for narrower feet: La Sportiva Solution
• Best for normal-width feet: Either one
• Most durable: Scarpa Instinct VS (it has harder rubber and the Solution’s strap has been known to break)
• Best for bouldering: Either one
• Best for sport climbing: Either one

Or, if you think neither of these shoes are right for you, check out some of our other popular climbing shoe buying guides:

• Bouldering shoes
• All-around climbing shoes
• Sport climbing shoes
• Climbing shoes for wide feet
• Climbing shoes for narrow feet

Sizing

For the Solution and Instinct VS, it’s particularly difficult to come up with a simple formula for determining what size to get. These are some of the highest performing sport climbing and bouldering shoes out on the market, so some people will size down to masochistic sizes in order to squeeze out as much performance as possible, while others who prefer comfort will size down less.

In short, sizing for these shoes can vary widely. We recommend you take a look at the reviews posted by others on REI for more sizing guidance:

• La Sportiva Solution reviews
• Scarpa Instinct VS reviews

Similarities

As you probably garnered from the comparison table above, the Solution and Instinct VS are similar in many ways. Both are designed for steep sport climbing and bouldering. They both have a Velcro closure style and are aggressive climbing shoes that can be uncomfortable if sized for a performance fit.

The shoes mostly do the same things well (hook, edge, fit into pockets) and do the same things not so well (smear, climb cracks). Either shoe should be sized tight and for that reason neither is particularly made for long, multi-pitch routes.

Differences

There are a handful of differences between the Solution and Instinct VS. Most of the differences are minor, but — since both shoes are expensive — they are worth knowing before purchasing a pair.

Rubber

One of the most important differences between the two shoes is the type of rubber they have. The La Sportiva Solution has Vibram XS Grip2 rubber which is stickier and softer than Vibram XS Edge. Though the Solution comes with 4mm of rubber and the Instinct VS comes with 3mm of rubber, the XS Edge rubber on the Instinct VS will likely last longer.

The softness of the XS Grip2 rubber also makes the Solution a little more sensitive than the Instinct VS. Wearing the Solution, you’ll be able to feel more features of the rock underneath your toes.

P3 Midsole

The Solution has a feature called the P3 Midsole; the Instinct VS does not. The P3 Midsole is a technology that maintains a shoe’s downturned shape for its entire life. This means the Solution will lose very little, if any, of its downturn, even after countless smears.

The P3 Midsole is a positive if you mostly climb or boulder on steep and overhung terrain. It will help your shoe stay down-cambered which will let you hook and grip on those tiny, overhung footholds, and that is exactly what happens with the Solution.

However, the P3 Midsole can be a negative. If you want your shoes to lose some of their downturn over the course of their life, then shoes with the P3 Midsole aren’t good choices for you. You’d want a shoe to lose its downturn if you will be slab climbing or smearing in it a lot or if you want your aggressive climbing shoes to be as comfortable as possible.

So, the Solution P3 Midsole will help the shoe better maintain its ability to climb on overhung terrain, while the Instinct VS’s normal midsole will make the shoe more comfortable and better at smearing and slab climbing.

Fit

Any two climbing shoes will have differences in the way they fit. Despite their similarities, the Solution and Instinct VS are no exception.

The main fit difference is that the Solution is a little narrower than the Instinct VS. The Solution, therefore, fits narrower to normal-width feet, while the Instinct VS fits normal-width to wider feet.

We have been unable to determine how, if at all, the heels fit differently. Both shoes are known for their heel hooking abilities, though, so we’d venture to say they both fit most heels well.

Stretch

The Instinct VS is made completely of Lorica, a synthetic leather, while the Solution is made of both leather and Lorica. This means the Solution stretches more than the Instinct VS. How much each shoe stretches, though, depends partially on how much you downsize your pair.

From reading many user stories, it seems that, on average, the Solution stretches half a size to a size while the Instinct VS stretches at most half a size.

The post La Sportiva Solution vs. Scarpa Instinct VS: Which Shoe Is Right for You? appeared first on 99Boulders.

The Petzl GriGri + didn’t score especially well in our belay-device shootout, but that’s not because it’s a bad belay device. It’s an impressive piece of engineering with several unusual and useful features.

Unfortunately, nifty features don’t make the grade unless they’re paired with efficient design. This is where the Plus falters. It has all the bells and whistles, it’s just that they don’t make a belayer’s life that much easier.

In a couple cases, they even get in the way.

So while the GriGri + isn’t bad, it’s also not exceptional. For most users, it’s hard to recommend the Plus over its venerable (and cheaper) sibling, the GriGri 2.

Compare the Petzl GriGri + to Top Belay Devices

If you’d like to read more about how the GriGri + compared to the other belay devices we tested, check out our guide to the best belay devices. Or keep reading for our full GriGri + review.

What We Like

Added Safety Features: Anti-Panic Lowering & Top-Rope Belay Mode

The main argument in favor of the GriGri + is its fancy new safety features. The most notable of these are a new “anti-panic” lowering feature and the addition of a dedicated belay mode for top-roping.

The anti-panic feature locks the device if the rope starts to slip too quickly while lowering. It functions exactly as promised, although it’s a little trigger-happy for my taste.

The feature counteracts a natural problem of the GriGri 2: the instinct in stressful situations is to clench rather than release, which can lead to a dropped climber. For beginning belayers, the anti-panic catch is an easy way to ensure safety.

The top-rope belay mode allows the cam to engage more easily. Petzl claims that slack is easier to take in while belaying in top-rope mode, but in practice I didn’t notice a difference. The cam is noticeably quicker to engage, which prevents unwanted slippage. Again, this is a feature mostly aimed at newer belayers.

Durability

In high-wear areas, Petzl added beefy stainless-steel plates. Where the GriGri 2 would develop grooves after extended use, the GriGri + is much more resistant to wear.

The rotating face-plate is thicker and heavier, as is the camming mechanism. These changes add some weight, but they also make the Plus one of the most durable belay devices on the market.

I wouldn’t call the GriGri 2 a lightweight, and it takes a good deal of use to wear one out. But those who need a belay to device to weather intensive use and abuse (guides, for example) will appreciate the extra mileage.

(For more on the GriGri 2, you can check out our full review.)

More Options

While the GriGri 2 is rated for ropes from 8.9-11 mm, Petzl says that it functions best between the relatively narrow range of 9.4-10.3 mm.

The total range of the GriGri + isn’t all that much wider — now extending down to 8.5 mm — but it has been optimized for ropes between 8.9-10.5 mm.

I didn’t have any 9.0 mm ropes on hand to test side by side, but on my 9.5 mm the GriGri + was slightly easier to control while lowering. With how skinny modern sport ropes are becoming, the extra versatility is welcome.

While we’re on the subject of lowering, the new cam geometry also makes lowering easier to modulate. Some climbers criticized the GriGri 2 for being too much of an on-off switch, without much sensitivity for controlling the lower.

The GriGri + adds sensitivity and a more forgiving range on the lever, which makes controlling speed easier. Most climbers get used to the GriGri 2’s mechanism without too much trouble, but for new belayers (are you seeing a pattern here?) the Plus smooths the learning curve.

What We Don’t Like

The Case of the Missing Tab

This is the one design feature we felt that Petzl botched. The GriGri 2 has a large curved tab down the length of the face-plate, which allows the device to rest on the index finger of the belayer’s right hand.

This is a convenient way to control the device while feeding slack and maintaining a hand on the brake strand. This (rather than clawing the whole device) is Petzl’s recommended method for feeding slack quickly.

The GriGri + has replaced the curved tab with a blunt nub at the near end of the face-plate. The nub isn’t curved, which means that the device can’t rest freely on the index finger — it must be held in place with the thumb.

I think this was an intentional move from Petzl, because it encourages belayers to keep their brake hand off the device when they’re not feeding slack. Theoretically, this could help avoid those high-profile accidents that happen because a belayer kept their thumb clamped over the cam.

I’m not sold. The nub makes the device feel slippery when feeding slack, and it meant that I had to look down at my hands once or twice rather than up at my climber. I feel less confident feeding quickly on this device than I do on a GriGri 2.

What’s more, if I did want to keep a hand on the device, the nub meant that my thumb had to stay pressed on the top, either on the cam or on top of the nub itself.

With a GriGri 2, I can let the device sit on my index finger without the thumb being involved, which means that I can still feed slack on short notice but there’s no chance of accidentally clamping the cam. In this way, the design of the GriGri + actually seems more dangerous.

Here’s a clip of me feeding slack with the GriGri +. You can see my thumb moving back and forth from the cam to the nub to hold the device.

Extra Features? Extra Hassle

That anti-panic mode is nifty, but it can make lowering a real pain. If there’s any hint of rope drag, it’s easy to engage the feature accidentally, which jerks the climber to a halt.

When my climber reaches the ground, I usually open the handle to allow them to pull a little slack and untie their knot. This also trips the anti-panic feature, leaving my climber pulling helplessly at their rope.

Once tripped, the feature can be overridden by continuing to pull back on the lever, but it was a pain to go through this process on almost every lower.

The belay modes are a similar story. The mechanism is easy enough to understand: a rotating switch on the back of the device that locks in place with a plastic toggle.

It takes more effort than expected to switch into lead mode, but it’s easy enough — as long as the lock isn’t engaged. To unlock the switch, you need something small and flat like a key. I suppose the point of a lock is to prevent accidental switching, but even so, it felt like a lot of trouble.

Bloat

The GriGri 2 is far from the lightest device on the market (it’s over 100 grams heavier than devices like the Mega Jul). The Plus adds another 30 grams, which is around the weight of a wiregate carabiner.

That doesn’t sound like much, but it’s noticeable in the hand.

The other form of bloat is the obvious one: the price. All the features of the GriGri + come at a roughly 1.5x price increase which is hard to stomach.

Will the GriGri + last 1.5 times as long? Maybe, but it’s hard to say.

Will it make our lives 1.5 times better in the meantime? For the right buyer maybe, but for most, probably not.

Best Uses

The GriGri + seems aimed almost exclusively at new climbers and guides. New climbers may be glad for the safety backups like the anti-panic mode and easy lowering. Guides can lock the devices in belay modes for clients, rely on the steel plates to extend the device’s lifetime, and rest (more) assured that no one will get dropped.

But for the majority of climbers, we recommend just buying a GriGri 2.

If your belay fundamentals are strong enough that you’re investing in an assisted-braking device, you should know enough to stay safe with a GriGri 2. And unless you’re working with new climbers on a day-to-day basis, the hassle and weight are a high price to pay for the extra safety and durability.

Seasoned users will probably want to stick to the GriGri 2 as well — the lack of tab and the anti-panic mode mean that the switch isn’t a painless one.

Value

The GriGri + only represents a good value under certain circumstances. If you’re an extremely heavy user, the extra life in the steel plates might mean that you can go longer before replacing your device. And if you’re worried about safety, the device features could provide valuable ease of mind.

But from where we stand, the GriGri 2 does the job better and costs less. As a result, it’s hard to recommend the Plus from a value perspective.

The GriGri 2 (along with cheaper tube-style devices like the ATC-XP) still wins in that department.

How the GriGri + Performed in Our Testing

At the end of testing, we rated the devices in three categories:

Function & Safety

This is the category in which the GriGri + excelled, with a nearly perfect score. All the devices we tested are certified and safe if used properly, but the GriGri + goes above and beyond to ensure safety. It provides easy access for new belayers, and it makes every effort to prevent malfunction or misuse.

These are worthy traits — basic safety improvements are the core of climbing technology. Even though we didn’t love all aspects of the device, the innovative features are impressive.

Versatility

The GriGri + had a mediocre score in this category. It will still work everywhere a GriGri 2 works, and that includes multi-pitch climbs. But in too many cases, it’s not the device we would reach for.

On multi-pitch outings, we like a more streamlined (and lighter) device. For sport cragging, the GriGri 2 is much more convenient to use.

You could buy a Plus for use in all these venues, but I’m not sure why you would. It doesn’t perform as well in as many settings as other devices, which means that it stays in the gear closet more often.

Ease of Use

This is another category where the Plus had a middling score. It does get a few good marks for its easily modulated lowering speed and its dedicated belay modes.

But for the most part, the features created too much hassle. The anti-panic lock was too easy to trigger and required careful operation to circumvent. The belay-mode switch is a little clumsy. And worst of all, the new nub felt like it complicated the slack-feeding process, which is a major part of lead belaying.

Product Specs

• Rope compatibility: 8.5-11 mm
• Weight: 200 g
• Assisted braking: Yes
• Colors available: Gray, orange, violet
• Certifications: CE EN 15151, UIAA
• Petzl guarantee: 3 years

The Bottom Line

We welcome innovation in the world of belay devices, but the GriGri + doesn’t bring significant benefits for most climbers.

For guides and learning settings, the durability and safety backups may be worth the price. But for the majority of users, the GriGri 2 will do the job better at two-thirds the cost.

The safety features aren’t game-changers, and in some cases they made our lives more difficult. It’s a well-made and capable device, but the extra hassle makes it hard to recommend.

The post Petzl GriGri + Review: Is It Better Than the GriGri 2? appeared first on 99Boulders.

The original Petzl Attache was a classic in its own right, and the modern generation carries the torch with style. It’s compact, lightweight, well-designed, and exceptionally usable. In our head-to-head test of the best locking carabiners, the Attache came away with the coveted Top Pick award.

To test the Attache, I used it from the gym to alpine multipitch. It thrived everywhere. Read on below for the breakdown.

Or if you’d like to read more about how the Petzl Attache compared to the other locking carabiners we tested, check out our article on the best locking carabiners.

What We Like

Functionality

Despite its compact size, the Attache is one of the handiest ‘biners around. Its large gate clearance makes it a snap to clip anything in, and Petzl’s attention to detail means that all the design details are dialed.

Because of the Attache’s size and design, I felt like it was less likely to shift or crossload while belaying, which was much appreciated. “Super lightweight, easy to unscrew, and easy to use,” said one tester, which just about sums it up.

Lightness

What makes the Attache’s usability especially impressive is the carabiner’s lightness. The Attache is smaller than most full-sized HMS ‘biners, although you don’t really notice a difference in capability. Where you do notice a difference is the weight — the Attache feels noticeably lighter on your gear loop or belay. In some cases a heavier ‘biner does just fine, but on long outings or multipitch climbs the Attache’s size and versatility make a real difference.

Features

The Attache’s extra features are few, but well-chosen. Petzl’s traditional red stripe above the screwgate serves as a warning when the ‘biner is unscrewed. This seems unnecessary, but it’s surprisingly nice — having a quick way to visually check your carabiner is intuitive and useful.

The H-shaped cross section of the Attache keeps the weight down but still provides a wide surface for the basket, which keeps the Attache performing well as a top-rope anchor or belay carabiner.

What We Don’t Like

Stock

In some cases, you may need a carabiner with a true round stock. For a belay device like the Edelrid Mega Jul, for example, a round carabiner will feed and rappel more smoothly than something like the Attache. The previous-gen Attache had a round stock, but the new generation sheds some weight with the updated design. In general, this trade is worth it.

Durability

Because of its lightweight construction, the Attache is slightly (but only slightly) less durable than some other locking carabiners. The BD RockLock, for instance, will likely outlast the Attache over long periods of frequent use. Still, I’ve seen no problems with the Attache being used hard in the field, and it remains impressively durable for a ‘biner of its size and weight.

Anti-Crossload

If you prefer a belay carabiner with a dedicated anti-crossloading device, you’ll have to look elsewhere. I’m generally not a fan of such additions, but they can provide extra peace of mind. I found that the Attache’s size and usability made it less likely to crossload than some larger ‘biners anyway.

Best Uses

Other than the specialized cases noted above, the Attache excels pretty much anywhere you would use a locking carabiner. It’s a supremely capable belay carabiner, and it’s just the right mix of weight and capability for long multipitch climbs. Its size makes it more versatile than most HMS carabiners, although you may still want a few smaller lockers for duties like going in direct to bolts.

As a versatile HMS, I don’t think there’s anything on the market as good as the Attache. I use mine for everything from clove-hitching onto anchors to toproping, and it’s still one of my favorite carabiners ever.

Value

The Attache isn’t the cheapest carabiner on the market, but it’s far from the most expensive. It’s slightly more expensive than our Best Value pick (the Black Diamond RockLock), but still much cheaper than options with features like auto-locking gates or fancy anti-crossloading devices.

If you don’t need the lightweight performance, or you simply need a carabiner that will last a long time for a good price, then you may want to check out the RockLock. Still, the Attache provides excellent value for the money.

How the Attache Performed in Our Testing

Functionality

The Attache received a near-perfect score in this category. It functions well in almost every circumstance, and Petzl’s craftmanship is predictably excellent.

Ease of Use

The Attache joined the RockLock as the only other carabiner to score perfect marks for usability. It’s intuitive and well-designed, and it handles like a larger carabiner. This is notable considering the carabiner’s size and weight — it’s easier to handle than some much larger carabiners, which is an achievement in itself.

I put each carabiner through a “time trial” of common transitions, and the Attache came through with an average time of 7.94 seconds, only slightly slower than the fastest carabiners in the test.

Portability

The Attache excelled in this category as well. Superlight offerings like the DMM Phantom may outstrip the Attache slightly in terms of weight, but won’t provide the same functionality. Along with the VaporLock, the Attache is the least-clunky HMS carabiner we tested.

Product Specs

• Weight: 56g
• Gate Clearance: 24 mm
• Shape: Compact HMS
• Gate-closed Strength: 22 kN

The Bottom Line

The Petzl Attache is the best locking carabiner on the market. It’s lightweight, well-designed, and very versatile. If I were forced to pick only one locking carabiner to use for the rest of my life, this would be it. Some carabiners may do specific jobs slightly better, but none match the all-around performance of the Attache.

Petzl Attache - Amazon

The post Petzl Attache Review: The Best Locking Carabiner? appeared first on 99Boulders.